Someguys 04

ah, just usin scraps i have on hand, nothin fancy. but has to function. rubber bushing on top and 3 pads on the floor should minimize noise.

welding that chunk to the harness bar just makes it a POS nobody else would want. if the pieces are to be reusable or salable they have to remain what they are without a bunch of useless to "another project" add ons that are a pain to remove.

i got a big ass HD 2" wide exhaust clamp, to hold the 1/2's of that clam, and the ID tightened just a bit when it was sliced. both 1/2's have to be donked down flat/flush n tight and grab well, the clamp is merely insurance it stays down tight and keeps that grip.

think i might rig up the fire ext. to sit on the bottom side of that tire rack over the cell. it'd be reachable right between the seats or over the tub rails.

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alright i'm tired of waiting.............called summit again, and they called the vendor again, and the vendor said 2 more wks again.

after i explained the vented unit they do have in stock will not work and i really need the non-vented, he put me on hold to talk to tech and apparently tech is no starnger to this question and yes it's possible to make the vented a non, but the vendor won't tell them how i have to call the vendor for it.

so my vented assy is shipping out of Summit/Texas tonight.
 
it's launched got a tracking no. should be here fri or sat.

i put that spare rack up in there for a fitting. i went with some old wheels spacers i have layin around to get my standoff. an it can swaing up out of the way when/if needed and is totally removable. it's still gonna get lashed down around the wheel for safety, but this might just work and it's not real heavy.

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so this is the part that's been a PITA to get hold of.
i originally ordered it with a PC red cap and in the non-vented version.

this is what Summit had in stock, they say it's vented but i'll be damned if i can see anywhere for air to pass unless i remove the O-ring and the seal is sloppy. the center of the cap appears as solid billet with the chain mount as the only intrusion.

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been trying to do some test fitting.
the wheel fits, just barely, rubs the gate some but puts no pressure on it.

i didn't like that fuel neck down in the corner being flush it was a bit to flush, so i made up a small 3/16" aluminum panel to bolt onto that corner and a 3/16" aluminum donut to give it a bit of standoff. still gotta clean up all the edges, but it should work

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i appreciate the support.
been a long yr, this thing should have been done months ago,

i haven't been able to invest the time i wanted to, but i'm close now................everything is there now, is just all needs gone over and double checked.


gonna work on the fuel sys this wkend and hopefully get it squared, then on to brakes.
 
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1st up is that filler neck.
i didn't like the way the tube angled into the neck because of how the plate sits.
the C bar is not out against the tub like the B bar is. so the bar that ties C to B is at a slight angle, therefore that corner plate is angled. it just bugged me a bit, so i made up a UHMW 6x1.25"wedge and tipped it back just a hair toward the tank, giving a better line for the filler tube. and tucking it back just inside the B bar, so nothin might whack or rub it.

gonna pull that spare back out and get the cover off the cell and it'll run like that until i'm satisfied i'll have no fuel leak issues (during gear break in period).

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ya . so i got that tire out the cell cover pulled..
then i got underneath and used some plastic spiral wrap on my fuel line where it makes a couple bends, it's a stainless braid cover but i still don't need it rubbing anything.
all the connections are tight, and iit's secured down the frame rail with my rear locker wire loom and the brake line..........t's ready for some gasoline.

it was hot as balls today but no rain, so i started into painting those front fenders. 1's almost done, couple more coats of clear on it and it's onto the other side.

not sure if i wanna color match the tub rail or just keep it flat black but it needs some love too..
 
couple shots of the painted fenders,
not a perfect match on such a large area and the clear didn't go down as well as i think it could have with a different delivery method (real spray gun).

it's a "good from far and far from good" job. good thing most of it gets covered in aluminum.
i'll give it another day or 2 to bake in the garage b4 i mount the armor panels back on.

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it was buggin me. the sides will be covered for the most part, the rim is a scratch zone i'm not gonna fret over, but the deck was not cool. once in the sun you could see all the thin mist overlap edges.

so i rolled it back in taped it back up and laid a heavy wet spray down onto the decks, since it 's a flat deck i figured it won't run much.
i was able to "wet it" and get enough material out it could lay down.

about to go see how it finished.
 
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so the "wet it" strategy works much better. i laid it down thick, just shy of enough to run on those flat fender decks and let it sit for 2d, and it came out much better.
well that got me confident enough to shoot the tub rail around the back end, and "wet it" with the clear, and it's not to bad.

pulled the C-clip from the door surrounds and took of the vertical riser. and had to try the top to see if it'll work at all. front fits nice and super tight. comes up about 6" short of the back rail though, but i may have a plan for a "jimmy rig" that could be sufficient, if i can find the dam thing.........to be continued tomrw.
 
rolled the jeep out this morn, got the rear valance plate painted. i still wanna cover it with an aluminum plate but it's good for now.

got the top (rampage frameless) warm enough to get it down on the door surrounds, that sucker is super snug across those bars. the center pull can't reach the windscreen frame anymore but the cross bars i placed work just as well to tug it back taught from the windscreen header.
the rear design of the bars tapers in more than the OE bars did and like mentioned the top is a bit short. but i can work all the straps around the new bars and get it taught. not perfect but works.

the "jimmy rig"........ i found this old tonneau (rear seat to gate) cover thing i had layin around. it's got a felt liner that grabs the velcro strip on the top. since the top actually has 2 layers i sandwiched it in there, it has corner straps i can use to secure the back end to the bars as well. again not perfect but for what i now have nothing will be so this will keep rain from dumpin off the short top into the rear tub area if needed.

playin with rear brakes next and double checkin everything underneath for tight/torque.

phones dead, i'll get pics up later.
 
pics with the top on. the back corner comes around a bit more than b4 but works well enough to keep rain and sun of my melon. you can see the jimmy rig piece covering the short end.
and the tub rim matches once again..................i really like the khaki against the raw aluminum when the sun hits it, it almost all looks 1 color. still gotta shine up the back armor.

got hung up on the exhaust once i got underneath, didn't leave myself much room. and i really need to stuff the axle b4 i build it to be sure it'll clear everything.

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