Someguys 04
- Thread starter someguysjeep
- Start date
OP
pourin rain yesterday morn so i busted out the palm sander and some scotch brite pads. and got the armor shined as much as it'll ever get.
everything underneath on the back ends been double checked. front upper ball joint to center rear axle is 106" on the nose.
and i threw in the towel on my idea to get the exhaust pipe back to the rear bumper i'll stick with the lazy turndown for now, maybe make something up at work when i have time, there are no pipes i can buy to make what i need without cutting small chunks from 25$ pieces.
bleeding the rear brake s today and then all that's left is to swap the radiator.
everything underneath on the back ends been double checked. front upper ball joint to center rear axle is 106" on the nose.
and i threw in the towel on my idea to get the exhaust pipe back to the rear bumper i'll stick with the lazy turndown for now, maybe make something up at work when i have time, there are no pipes i can buy to make what i need without cutting small chunks from 25$ pieces.
bleeding the rear brake s today and then all that's left is to swap the radiator.
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Excited to see this thing move under its own power!
OP
radiator this wkend and a few sys to test, lockers air etc. then it's time.
OP
ohhh ya and those struts gotta go in but that's just a few hrs work.
OP
after i pried my ass out of the seat this morn i dug out a big ol bucket and was just about to turn the petcock. i opened up the radiator and it's full to the brim. i know i saw fluid below it but am not sure where it could have come from,
so instead of swapping it and tossing it as trash i figure i really need to get this thing fired up and see if it really does need changed. the new 1 in the box will keep for yrs in the basement.
so then i slid up and started to supply power to that ARB compressor and run the bugs out of the sys. my muffler was bleeding, it needed some tape and i had the solenoid feeds reversed. she's all good now. pressure test is good and she blows air to the locker. locker switch seems to function just fine as i have it wired (not an ARB switch but fed from 1).
gonna connect up that rear locker power supply tomrw and maybe play with the rear struts.
but now it's time to cut the grass.
so instead of swapping it and tossing it as trash i figure i really need to get this thing fired up and see if it really does need changed. the new 1 in the box will keep for yrs in the basement.
so then i slid up and started to supply power to that ARB compressor and run the bugs out of the sys. my muffler was bleeding, it needed some tape and i had the solenoid feeds reversed. she's all good now. pressure test is good and she blows air to the locker. locker switch seems to function just fine as i have it wired (not an ARB switch but fed from 1).
gonna connect up that rear locker power supply tomrw and maybe play with the rear struts.
but now it's time to cut the grass.
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OP
got that rear locker all wired in yesterday. using the Hella lamp harness. it's way more than what i need but it was in place and ready to roll since i ditched the lamp. i pulled the 30A fuse for a 10A and that should keep the locker safe. i hope, that's what they call for.
had to pull the dash back apart i had 2 wires flopped, but that's all square now.
searched all over for a place to get rid of some old gasoline, nobody will take it. the city has drop off points but they make it more hassle than it's worth. so i guess i got 4gl of parts cleaner now.
bout to run out and buy another gas can and drop about 4-5gl in the tank and let it start to seep into that cup and pump, and that'll test the bulkhead fitting on the side of the fuel vessel i had to plug. if that checks good overnight, it's "fill er up" time.
struts are out of the box, and the jack and stands are ready to go for install Wed.
had to pull the dash back apart i had 2 wires flopped, but that's all square now.
searched all over for a place to get rid of some old gasoline, nobody will take it. the city has drop off points but they make it more hassle than it's worth. so i guess i got 4gl of parts cleaner now.
bout to run out and buy another gas can and drop about 4-5gl in the tank and let it start to seep into that cup and pump, and that'll test the bulkhead fitting on the side of the fuel vessel i had to plug. if that checks good overnight, it's "fill er up" time.
struts are out of the box, and the jack and stands are ready to go for install Wed.
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
It's crazy how difficult it is to properly dispose of chemicals. Looks like you may have four gallons of fire starter!
OP
no fuel leaks so far.
but the garage is full of fumes though, the vent tubes are allowing fumes to escape as they are designed to do, but the stench is not favorable.
i'm gonna take my 2 vents and T them into the charcoal canister and see if that'll stop it. if it works i can mount that in the fender well.
i started a post about it but nobody's lookin and IDK if the sys has to be sealed to work or if the canister is sufficient with just an open exit............................. looking for fittings to get it all tied now.
i also had a bit of an issue filling it, the vents work great and it gulps fuel faster than i can pour it, but the filler neck was at a horrible angle, so i pulled the aluminum plate off and put a bend in it. now it's much easier to get a nozzle at a downward angle,
but i would like to score an old style flex spout gas can neck and not this safety latch crap with non bendable oddly angled plastic necks or spout push in releases.
but the garage is full of fumes though, the vent tubes are allowing fumes to escape as they are designed to do, but the stench is not favorable.
i'm gonna take my 2 vents and T them into the charcoal canister and see if that'll stop it. if it works i can mount that in the fender well.
i started a post about it but nobody's lookin and IDK if the sys has to be sealed to work or if the canister is sufficient with just an open exit............................. looking for fittings to get it all tied now.
i also had a bit of an issue filling it, the vents work great and it gulps fuel faster than i can pour it, but the filler neck was at a horrible angle, so i pulled the aluminum plate off and put a bend in it. now it's much easier to get a nozzle at a downward angle,
but i would like to score an old style flex spout gas can neck and not this safety latch crap with non bendable oddly angled plastic necks or spout push in releases.
We called them donkey dicks in the Army if you're talking about the metal fuel spout. I'm sure that isn't PC anymore so who knows what they are called now.
OP
Some do yes
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R743DLY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I have these type of jugs now and it has a clear flex hose.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084BTSMY8/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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OP
i like those bottles,
Summit is the closest that has them, but VP, MR gasket, Sunoco (even says race fuel on it), or Summits brand all say not made made to transport fuel. isn't that funny shit. they say ok for water or oil............but here's the issue with that.
if it's not for GASOLINE it shouldn't be RED, they are color coded so they don't need to be labeled.
so it's safe to assume you have had no issues from the bottle and the lack of certification is likely something they just don't wanna pay for? or a negligence mitigation..........we never said it was for gas, so we aren't responsible if anything happens with gas.
Interesting, I'd never paid attention to that before. I've used mine to transport fuel many times without any issues.
OP
the more i think about it, i really need to find me a cheap crank n nozzle pumper. i have to set the gas can on my shoulder to pour from ground level. that's already a red flag PITA signal.
on the trailer at the pump no big deal, but in the field, it'd be a hassle every time.
OP
fuel safe stuff looks top notch but a bit more than i want to spend for this.
considering this, runs on 4 AA's (i'll have spares of already for radios and flashlights) and small enough to tote with a jug on remote runs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0916MWYRL/?tag=wranglerorg-20
i'll likely carry something like a 15-20gl vessel on the trailer for long wkends, and for that i'll go with an old fashioned crank pump and spigot that'll reach.
Cool. I was thinking about something that could connect to the battery on the Jeep but that works.
EDIT: This is more what I was thinking of.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/BLACKHORSE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
EDIT: This is more what I was thinking of.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/BLACKHORSE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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OP
well the rusty stilts are gone, traded up for fancy hardware. gonna pressure them up tomrw. it's about 1/2-3/4"'s below where it will sit in the pics.
not diggin how close the valve is to the mount and need to cycle things to check, might need to take a die grinder and radius an easement.
i dicked around an for to much time figuring out that gas fume issue. i think i got it beat. i piped the vents into the charcoal brick and it seems to have helped significantly. now i gotta find room to stuff it out of site.
to air those beasts up i have to drop it to the basement, full compression and then take the elevator up. i get some pics of the basement.
and after looking at the pics i think i better be sure that bottom knuckle end wont rub on the inside when it droops too. IFRC those boxed brackets where for hanging off the top of the tube originally and i flipped them to run them under and never coisidered the hole was not centered. and i see i'm in the deep end.
not diggin how close the valve is to the mount and need to cycle things to check, might need to take a die grinder and radius an easement.
i dicked around an for to much time figuring out that gas fume issue. i think i got it beat. i piped the vents into the charcoal brick and it seems to have helped significantly. now i gotta find room to stuff it out of site.
to air those beasts up i have to drop it to the basement, full compression and then take the elevator up. i get some pics of the basement.
and after looking at the pics i think i better be sure that bottom knuckle end wont rub on the inside when it droops too. IFRC those boxed brackets where for hanging off the top of the tube originally and i flipped them to run them under and never coisidered the hole was not centered. and i see i'm in the deep end.
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OP
so i cycled this stuff and the bottom lobe confinement and the valve will be fine. i couldn't get full extension due to a vapor lock in my struts but within 2.5" of the basement.
now i have a new concern. at a full articulated droop a strut is gonna go 90* and possibly just into the minus side at full extension (another 2.5").
the rear upper triangulation seems to be effective. but is this an issue or not?
now i have a new concern. at a full articulated droop a strut is gonna go 90* and possibly just into the minus side at full extension (another 2.5").
the rear upper triangulation seems to be effective. but is this an issue or not?