Someguys 04

[B00mb00m]

so i cycled this stuff and the bottom lobe confinement and the valve will be fine. i couldn't get full extension due to a vapor lock in my struts but within 2.5" of the basement.

now i have a new concern. at a full articulated droop a strut is gonna go 90* and possibly just into the minus side at full extension (another 2.5").
the rear upper triangulation seems to be effective. but is this an issue or not?

View attachment 277447

Due to the pin joints on both sides of the shock it will remain a 2 force member at any degree of orientation so as long as nothing is binding the shock/air spring shouldn't care if its vertical or slightly off. Is that what you're worried about? Are the air struts ok to be used as droop limiting devices?

 

[someguysjeep]

Due to the pin joints on both sides of the shock it will remain a 2 force member at any degree of orientation so as long as nothing is binding the shock/air spring shouldn't care if its vertical or slightly off. Is that what you're worried about? Are the air struts ok to be used as droop limiting devices?

yes. they have internal bump suppression on both ends.
and yes going inboard of vertical, is the concern.

in hindsight i should have taken the bottom end all the way to the brakes if i was able for stability. but i'm gonna get just a few runs this yr b4 winter and then i can consider rework depending on trials.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

As long as you are not binding throughout the entire range of motion, you’re golden. Nothing magic about the 90 degree mark.

 

[someguysjeep]

As long as you are not binding throughout the entire range of motion, you’re golden. Nothing magic about the 90 degree mark.

think i'm just gettin tripped up in my head.
the motion of the axle controlled by the links is what's gonna swing the axle and then actuate the struts motion....................i think i got all twisted up thinkin hows the strut gonna pull the axle back from this negative position. which is not a reality, the links and arcs do all that.

 

[someguysjeep]

pics sucks, no room and bright sun, sorry.

axle stuffed and links and driveshaft at full compression..

 

[someguysjeep]

bottom floor everybody out................ i have a couple inches under the tub still and could have used them had i chosen a 12" strut or poked the top through the tub, but my OCD said keep all 4 corners the same. and i wasn't ready to rip the tub internally more than i have already done to sink the fuel cell.

 

[Wildman]

Looking really good. How soon before it's going on it's first trip?

 

[someguysjeep]

Looking really good. How soon before it's going on it's first trip?

very soon provided i get it fired up tomrw, gonna try.



7th floor, all air up, stiitn on it's own, nice n level Frt to Bk.

 

[Wildman]

Cool looking forward to seeing it out and about. I'm sure you are pretty stoked about it too.

 

[someguysjeep]

no sparky today....................it's been sittin a bit longer than anticipated so i pulled the plugs and gave the cylinders a shot of foggin oil. and then cleaned the garage a bit, gettin hard to get around the jeep again.

that jimmy rig i did to that charcoal can seems to have stopped any signs of fumes in the garage. now i just have to punch a hole into the front of the hump to get the vent lines outside and mount it. pic of my jimmy rig fume filter below.
i still need to top off the cell and that'll put a pressure test to that vent sys.

saw some drips off that dam radiator again, but the petcock is wet so maybe that's all it ever was, fingers crossed.

and you know i'm just bout all ready to go and ..................i don't have a dam windshield, gotta set that up soon.

side note on that foggin oil, tough to get that can back into those last couple plug holes and the nozzle isn't very long. then at best it just shoots a stream right to the bottom. so i ganked a 360 spray tube like what you get with fluid film or eastwoods and i was tickled when it slipped right onto the fogger nozzle and gave me 20" of flexible reach i pushed it just passed the plug socket base and gave them all a shot.

 

[someguysjeep]

well i went and drilled a hole in the front of the hump and shoved those vent tubes out. my rocker extends a bit so it offers me a small shelf to mount it on.

and i stopped by Menard's and happened to peek at gas cans and they have a universal flex tube. a few AAMOF and they carry those race style bottles, but only in white (21$)
anyway i saw this little cheapo transfer pump on Amazon for like 20$, Menards had it for 12$, so i'll see how it works for the hefty investment of 12 bucks. says 2.4GPM so should take under 4mins to fill my "shoebox".

and in a pinch i could use it in just about anything it'd fit into if i had to.

 

[Wildman]

Cool.

 

[someguysjeep]

so i made a bracket to hold that fume can, just bits of the aluminum armor cutouts.
the 1st attempt i bent it wrong and it cracked on me. so i had to improvise and use a few more of pieces of hardware. it's hung off the pinch seam of the tub with a small piece inside as a backer. it's suspended and rigid enough it can wobble a bit but not enough to contact anything or rattle.

so it's down to just the windshield. they been booked and i gotta pick/have a good day to do it in the driveway.

been lookin at axles and rebuilding the traiier skeleton i have or financing a new 1.

 

[someguysjeep]

well that 12$ transfer pump actually works pretty good. drained 4.5gl quick enough not to complain and it siphons tube contents right back down with no issues when you cut it off.

and i booked an appointment with safelight auto glass to come do the windshield tomrw afternoon, might be 1 of the last good days. no rain expected 78* and partly sunny forecast, so fingers crossed.

 

[Wildman]

I've thought about trying to have Safelight come do mine or pull the frame and take it to a local shop. But I think I'll need to remove the armor first.

 

[someguysjeep]

I've thought about trying to have Safelight come do mine or pull the frame and take it to a local shop. But I think I'll need to remove the armor first.

they don't offer much room for notes so i will call in tomrw morning and be sure they are aware of my oddities like the lift and roll bars.

 

[someguysjeep]

installer was all good with it all and tickled he didn't have to dig 1 out, had it done in an hr.
roll bars didn't effect him on the inside.
he didn't just lay out a gob of cement and smash it down. he laid a nice wide patch on the whole pinch seam at least an inch wide all the way around the frame, then did the same to the glass about 3/4" around it's perimeter then mated the 2 for a nice wide seal.

and IDK why the F i can't take a decent picture, but i'll post it anyways.

 

[Wildman]

installer was all good with it all and tickled he didn't have to dig 1 out, had it done in an hr.
roll bars didn't effect him on the inside.
he didn't just lay out a gob of cement and smash it down. he laid a nice wide patch on the whole pinch seam at least an inch wide all the way around the frame, then did the same to the glass about 3/4" around it's perimeter then mated the 2 for a nice wide seal.

and IDK why the F i can't take a decent picture, but i'll post it anyways.

View attachment 279728

Awesome. Makes me hopeful for mine. My frame is dented and bent a little. Which is why I added armor to it.

But yours looks good.

 

[someguysjeep]

Awesome. Makes me hopeful for mine. My frame is dented and bent a little. Which is why I added armor to it.

But yours looks good.

could strong back both sides of the pillar or beam and use a big C clamp to try to push it if you think it would help.

 

[someguysjeep]

lookin at my steering links connected to the JK stock knuckles wonderin........... some guys with the Y link configuration take the driver side and flip it OTK to gain a bit of height on that end of the steering sys. is there any reason i can't do the same?