OP
always punch list items to address............ and i found the contact, it's the exhaust smackin the cross member cutout on the Savvy skid not the trans or TC.
Someguys 04
- Thread starter someguysjeep
- Start date
OP
i had to give the dock a hand today and unload a coil truck. the driver chucked all the chocks for trash so i snagged them.
drill a hole and use some thick twine or natural rope and they'll be perfect trail chocks.
workin on the exhaust.. gotta get that contact gone.
drill a hole and use some thick twine or natural rope and they'll be perfect trail chocks.
workin on the exhaust.. gotta get that contact gone.
OP
not sure if i'm gonna use that monster or not but if i do i have rings for the floor for the shoulder straps.
the lap belts would also be bolted to the floor with aid of an L bracket and a couple large washers.
OP
exhaust contact is gone, i got rid of the big cat b4 the muffler and it's got all kinds of room through there now and more airflow space too.
gotta just put it all back together now and should be golden. also think i found the tinny ting, found a spot the brake line might be rattling against the inverted welded Savvy skid frame bracket gusset. test ride this afternoon i hope.
gotta just put it all back together now and should be golden. also think i found the tinny ting, found a spot the brake line might be rattling against the inverted welded Savvy skid frame bracket gusset. test ride this afternoon i hope.
OP
all back together ,,,,,, didn't get to take it out yet.
i put the big wheels on the front end, not a chance in hell of using the centramatics on the front with those massive calipers. once the spacer is off, the caliper is beyond the hub and it just barely fits behind the rims, i might have 3/32" clearance.
i never bothered tryin the tie rod flip on the driver side. and i still have to trim the rockers at the back edge, but it is what it is for now. gonna take some minor adjustments to dial things in but. i think this is what it looks like for awhile.
i already need to adjust the front pinion angle, i want a bit more castor, but the frame side upper jamb nut is a MFR to get to. i need to get a big crows foot for it. still need to wind the winch line correctly, get the cell cover on and spare in.
and i have some 16ga. aluminum left over i might fill or cap that center section on the rear end of the cage and then i can let the top run short and it won't matter, no need for my jimmy-rig patchwork.
so pics of front, back and side as it will be for now.
seats and restraints are in the works.
i put the big wheels on the front end, not a chance in hell of using the centramatics on the front with those massive calipers. once the spacer is off, the caliper is beyond the hub and it just barely fits behind the rims, i might have 3/32" clearance.
i never bothered tryin the tie rod flip on the driver side. and i still have to trim the rockers at the back edge, but it is what it is for now. gonna take some minor adjustments to dial things in but. i think this is what it looks like for awhile.
i already need to adjust the front pinion angle, i want a bit more castor, but the frame side upper jamb nut is a MFR to get to. i need to get a big crows foot for it. still need to wind the winch line correctly, get the cell cover on and spare in.
and i have some 16ga. aluminum left over i might fill or cap that center section on the rear end of the cage and then i can let the top run short and it won't matter, no need for my jimmy-rig patchwork.
so pics of front, back and side as it will be for now.
seats and restraints are in the works.
OP
looks ok............. but i know it's all superficial compared to most other rigs i'm watchin being built. small axles. no crawl gearbox, stock steering pump and gear thats not gonna last long from what i read.
now i have to do some real upgrades not just cut and patch cosmetics.
i'm not done, just a temporary plateau. from here on up it costs big $.
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
I think you built it with what you had at the time. Sounds like what I did also.
In hindsight I wish I had wider axles and had tried to use some aluminum in a few spots but it is what it is and I'll run what I have. So I stand by my comment. I think it's looking great and you have done some really good work to it.
Had to start somewhere. Not easy to do an all at once build.
These are fixable and certainly easier to address than your "cut and patch cosmetics". Pricey though, yes!
OP
so i never did mention i can't find anything wrong with the radiator, been turnin it over every day and had it out for a few laps around the hood, definitely got it up to temp and no leakin. so i guess i got a spare radiator.
ok so who's got HP 60 or 14B front axle builder housings.............. already got WOD on my list (Crane) who else offers a builder axles. pig, tubes and C's,
ok so who's got HP 60 or 14B front axle builder housings.............. already got WOD on my list (Crane) who else offers a builder axles. pig, tubes and C's,
OP
might have a line on a set of 1/2 doors........(right b4 winter). says not rust but missin 1 inner panel, painted flat black, 200$. got an appointment for Sat.
i can dig up a panel or skin it in aluminum maybe. the outside would be skinned to match the armor.
nobody got anything for builder axles? the Dana site is a PITA to get direct answers or no.'s fusion's got 1 for 1975$ and ECGS has 1 for 1910$ (w/1/2" tubes).
and the shaved axle from WOD is 2100$ ish.
i can dig up a panel or skin it in aluminum maybe. the outside would be skinned to match the armor.
nobody got anything for builder axles? the Dana site is a PITA to get direct answers or no.'s fusion's got 1 for 1975$ and ECGS has 1 for 1910$ (w/1/2" tubes).
and the shaved axle from WOD is 2100$ ish.
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
Check out Hardline Crawlers. It’s a relatively low traffic forum but the guys there are crazy knowledgeable. Lots of bouncers and buggies. The only ones I know of are WOD Crane axles.
OP
well i rode an hr out and an hr home empty handed (well no doors anyways), the SOB ghosted me when i arrived. so no 1/2 doors. he did contact me and say he got called into work but......... i call BS you took a nap and screwed up.
he was only 15m from Summit, so i went by there and some smaller restraints...... nothin fancy just basic 4 point belts w/ OE latches.
and they had the Cornbro suspension seats on display. i sat my ass in the baja and it fits well, hugs the hips and i got room for my nuts (until i if ever need a submarine strap).. didn't buy the sliders. i think i can take the OE slider and mod it to work.
pics when i take um out of the box.
Mastercrafts are not in stock in ohio and i'll never get to try 1, these felt comfortable, so it is what it is. and they don't stock PRP's so i until i can sit my ass in either i'm not missing anything.
and i did not want cloth inserts to get mud speckled up and look like ass.
forgot i had picked up a lasered crows foot from Barnes, for the front upper link jamb nuts........so i adjusted the castor from 4.2* to 5.5*
he was only 15m from Summit, so i went by there and some smaller restraints...... nothin fancy just basic 4 point belts w/ OE latches.
and they had the Cornbro suspension seats on display. i sat my ass in the baja and it fits well, hugs the hips and i got room for my nuts (until i if ever need a submarine strap).. didn't buy the sliders. i think i can take the OE slider and mod it to work.
pics when i take um out of the box.
Mastercrafts are not in stock in ohio and i'll never get to try 1, these felt comfortable, so it is what it is. and they don't stock PRP's so i until i can sit my ass in either i'm not missing anything.
and i did not want cloth inserts to get mud speckled up and look like ass.
forgot i had picked up a lasered crows foot from Barnes, for the front upper link jamb nuts........so i adjusted the castor from 4.2* to 5.5*
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OP
only 45* this morn but i got out there early and changed my flasher relay. the new LED's have the signals all hyper. the LM470 seems to have almost worked the right/passngr side is fine............. the driver side cuts out the radio and mileage display when it's activated.
got it out on the road again for another 1/2hr or so around the hood to heat those gears up.
and i got a wobble in 1 of my wheels acts like its not centered correctly. i'll have to just barely raise them off the ground and spin um and see which 1 or 1's get a drag point.
got 1 of the sliders loose of the passenger seat. big PITA but maybe i can save the tumble feature if i can relocate the pull.
got it out on the road again for another 1/2hr or so around the hood to heat those gears up.
and i got a wobble in 1 of my wheels acts like its not centered correctly. i'll have to just barely raise them off the ground and spin um and see which 1 or 1's get a drag point.
got 1 of the sliders loose of the passenger seat. big PITA but maybe i can save the tumble feature if i can relocate the pull.
OP
ya, those seat sliders are a pain to get off.
the base comes off easy 4 bolts. the slider itself is tied to 2 brackets and then 2 more brackets that act as or are the bottom rails of the seat. once it's free the seats left with just a flimsy frame.
the slider has 2 cross plates, 1 bolts on, 1's made permanent. they are both raw steel and needed surface rust removal. so those are cleaned and repainted and i'll put the other plate back on the assembly tomrw.
now the vertical mounting tabs on the new seats are 18" center front to back and 14.5" side to side and the holes in the slider happen to be real close to that 14.5" so 4 lengths of 2x2x3/16" x19" aluminum angles should do me just right to make the new mounting rails.
not touchin the driver seat until i'm sure it'll work and function. gonna have to add a pull lever for the tumble feature but think it's doable.
started raining so i'll have to change the wheels tomrw and toss those street tires back on for the rest of my roadwork. i'll check those wheels for round when they come off and see which is bein the bitch.
the base comes off easy 4 bolts. the slider itself is tied to 2 brackets and then 2 more brackets that act as or are the bottom rails of the seat. once it's free the seats left with just a flimsy frame.
the slider has 2 cross plates, 1 bolts on, 1's made permanent. they are both raw steel and needed surface rust removal. so those are cleaned and repainted and i'll put the other plate back on the assembly tomrw.
now the vertical mounting tabs on the new seats are 18" center front to back and 14.5" side to side and the holes in the slider happen to be real close to that 14.5" so 4 lengths of 2x2x3/16" x19" aluminum angles should do me just right to make the new mounting rails.
not touchin the driver seat until i'm sure it'll work and function. gonna have to add a pull lever for the tumble feature but think it's doable.
started raining so i'll have to change the wheels tomrw and toss those street tires back on for the rest of my roadwork. i'll check those wheels for round when they come off and see which is bein the bitch.
OP
home from work today. necks stiff as hell and it's got my hands numb, but i can't sit around all day, so i went and set that passenger seat.
pics of the cleaned up slider and angles.
and the seat on there, the front is secured and good. the back will be raised just a bit to take off some of the lean it's heavy because of the seat base design. it sits about 1.5" higher thats good for her, and i'm heavy enough to sink the seat and it seems just a tad higher .........and that's not a bad thing still plenty of room for my dome to wobble and not contact anything.
pics of the cleaned up slider and angles.
and the seat on there, the front is secured and good. the back will be raised just a bit to take off some of the lean it's heavy because of the seat base design. it sits about 1.5" higher thats good for her, and i'm heavy enough to sink the seat and it seems just a tad higher .........and that's not a bad thing still plenty of room for my dome to wobble and not contact anything.
OP
gotta pull that 1 apart and weld some tabs on to raise the back up and remove some of that lean. if that jives i'll mimic the brackets and the driver side is next. it's simpler no tumble.