Someguys 04

played with location for the temp gauge, don't want it up top of the dash or on any bars or riser, don't need it centralized so i become fixated on it all the time. so down and out of the way of knees and hands and levers, but still in a direct line from my eyes with no obstructions. carved out some of the plastic so it'd lean back. it's not far from the sensor and not far from vamping a power source.

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I like mine through the plastic just in front of TC shift lever. Looks cleaner than the silver mount and meets your other requirements. I can get a pic later
 
I like mine through the plastic just in front of TC shift lever. Looks cleaner than the silver mount and meets your other requirements. I can get a pic later
i really don't plan on the console being a forever item. if i start playing with that 205 and a doubler it'll all be altered. maybe an aluminum console like the GR piece. then i'll have a nice tidy spot for that and more.
i looked at the face of the incline directly ahead of the TC lever, i didn't prefer it.
 
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4 new (self adjusting, they were not b4) brake assemblies arrived yesterday, gonna try and work on that this wkend. i need to see it on the wheels so i can set the coupler height verify the deck height and scoot it over some and make that last bit of welding easier.

i got the trans pan back on, left it overnight so the gasket goo got plenty of set up time. then wired the sender and covered that wire with some spiral wrap so it's not necked. gotta fill her up, vamp my power source and it's all done. i'd almost like to find a small rubber boot for the exposed portion of the sender, like a mini spark plug boot almost, but its hidden behind the skid and if it's not waterproof it's just a water trap so maybe it's better necked?

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well guess what...................i get to try my hand at the gasket goo again i got a dripper...... sucks i got 3quarts in b4 it started.

both surfaces are clean and true so i just skimmed it, guess that wern't enough........i recovered what i could through the bung, but i gotta pull it down and do it again. 😞 that bolt right above the sender. you can even see i had just a bit of squish out right there too. didn't wanna be sloppy cause what don't squish out squishes in.
 
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i wasn't feelin lucky yesterday so i put that off until this evening. got it down, cleaned up and back up. went a bit heavier on the goo, i found the spot and it was thin, so all my fault. i'll let it set up overnight and see if it'll hold for me this time........bastard was stuck real good accept for that spot.
 
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closest wires to grab power are the switches i have already installed for rear E-locker and the ARB compressor. would the power draw from either effect the gauge?

forgive me plz electrical is not my strong suit, i can look at most mechanical stuff and have a clue but wires are almost intimidating.
 
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closest wires to grab power are the switches i have already installed for rear E-locker and the ARB compressor. would the power draw from either effect the gauge?

forgive me plz electrical is not my strong suit, i can look at most mechanical stuff and have a clue but wires are almost intimidating.
Normally your 12v feed comes from a switched ignition source so the gauge turns on and off with the ignition switch.
It's not an issue adding a manually operated toggle or rocker switch providing you're connecting on the source side of your switches and the feed wire to E-Locker/ARB Comp switches are appropriately sized. That gauge probably draws no more than 1/4 amp.
 
You could use the rear window defogger circuit since you don't use a hard top. I believe it's fuse location #16 behind glove box and is a 10A circuit. Test it for hot on ignition, then get a fuse tap and fuse it with a smaller fuse like 1A or 2A.
 
You could use the rear window defogger circuit since you don't use a hard top. I believe it's fuse location #16 behind glove box and is a 10A circuit. Test it for hot on ignition, then get a fuse tap and fuse it with a smaller fuse like 1A or 2A.
had to do some lookin, didn't even know this existed. but i like this betterer.

15&16 are empty, like no contacts present in there kinda empty. 6 is the rear defogger, i'll see what i get from it.

my local AZ sucks, the only fuses they got are 7.5's, but it'll only draw what it needs correct? ......until i can get hands on a 2.
 
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had to do some lookin, didn't even know this existed. but i like this betterer.

15&16 are empty, like no contacts present in there kinda empty. 6 is the rear defogger, i'll see what i get from it.

my local AZ sucks, the only fuses they got are 7.5's, but it'll only draw what it needs correct? ......until i can get hands on a 2.
Yes, it will only use what the load needs. The fuse is there mainly to protect the wire from a short or overload so the fuse blows before you burn your wire up and have a fire. The fuse also protects the device and since the gauge is the only item in circuit you want a smaller fuse that will blow before the device. If the guage is rated at say .5A max then roughly 3x load would be a 2A fuse. A 3A fuse would be fine as well.
 
Yes, it will only use what the load needs. The fuse is there mainly to protect the wire from a short or overload so the fuse blows before you burn your wire up and have a fire. The fuse also protects the device and since the gauge is the only item in circuit you want a smaller fuse that will blow before the device. If the guage is rated at say .5A max then roughly 3x load would be a 2A fuse. A 3A fuse would be fine as well.
just hooked it in.......works so far. need to get it out and around the block few times to heat up that fluid be sure i'm full and it's givin me a temp reading.

i really appreciate the help......you ever need some small bits for fabricating, maybe i can return the favor.
 
just hooked it in.......works so far. need to get it out and around the block few times to heat up that fluid be sure i'm full and it's givin me a temp reading.

i really appreciate the help......you ever need some small bits for fabricating, maybe i can return the favor.
Anytime, that's what we're all here for, to help and be helped. I'm glad you got it up and going so you can move on to the next project! :D
 
i got the backing plates off both trailer axles yesterday. repacked all the big inner bearings and installed new seals all around. then i was able to get 1 axle fitted. so far, so good.

kinda glad i went this route... the torque or lack of on the backing plate bolts was all over the place. the factory used 3/8x1 fine threads gr5 w/lock washers. i used 3/8x1 course thread gr8 w/lock washer and a nylock nut. torqued to 40ft lbs (30-50ft # is recommended or when the washer flattens).

now the only reason i see for them using fine threads is the vibration factor.....which didn't work all that well even with lock washers...so i backed it all up with a nylon cap is all. swappin the old gr5 for gr8 should handle any strength differences.
 
got both ends of that 2nd axle cleaned and painted. it'll be ready for new brake plates tomrw. i had cleaned and painted the axle caps but they need new rubbers..........i might just go with some bearing buddies or similar.

due to recent posts in another thread, i went back and changed a few things i wasn't happy with, the seat harness mount, the cell cover strap and the spare tire tie down.............now they all got nice new aluminum brackets, nothin to fancy all made from various bits of angle but now stronger and have a finish i don't have to worry about.
 
today i see the head electrician goin through his job shelves and chuckin stuff. i told him if he's got anything good for my trailer just chuck it over here and he hands me this stuff.
1 ylw/wt & 1 bl/wt lengths of 12ga. bout 20+ft of each. and a nice length, 35ft+ of 14/4. this should do just fine i think.

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today i see the head electrician goin through his job shelves and chuckin stuff. i told him if he's got anything good for my trailer just chuck it over here and he hands me this stuff.
1 ylw/wt & 1 bl/wt lengths of 12ga. bout 20+ft of each. and a nice length, 35ft+ of 14/4. this should do just fine i think.

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Free is a very good price!
 
Free is a very good price!
you'd not believe the stuff they just toss in the trash now and turn around and bitch cause they think some guys putting 4 seconds of grease in a roller when 3 seconds should be enough.

he had some 12/6 shielded but i thought that a bit much.
 
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you'd not believe the stuff they just toss in the trash now and turn around and bitch cause they think some guys putting 4 seconds of grease in a roller when 3 seconds should be enough.

he had some 12/6 shielded but i thought that a bit much.
It's terrible how much stuff like this hits the dumpsters.
You will want at least five conductors since you have brakes. You may want seven but you could drop two conductors, one for 12v charging and for backup lights.
 
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Double checking the wire requirements for the trailer and it calls for 12Ga for white(ground), red or black(power) and blue(brake). 16Ga on green(right turn), yellow(left turn), brown(tail lights) and purple(back-up lights). Of course these are the standard trailer colors for 7-pin.
I'd snag that piece of 12/6 wire if it's still available and omit the red charging option
 
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Double checking the wire requirements for the trailer and it calls for 12Ga for white(ground), red or black(power) and blue(brake). 16Ga on green(right turn), yellow(left turn), brown(tail lights) and purple(back-up lights). Of course these are the standard trailer colors for 7-pin.
I'd snag that piece of 12/6 wire if it's still available and omit the red charging option
i been trying to do some research on it. this seems fairly easy to follow. if i deviate colors i'll be sure to label it.

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https://mechanicalelements.com/trailer-wiring-diagram/