Someguys 04

got that tail piece cleaned and primed and 1/2 shot black until i ran out of paint.
i got those rail risers all made up and ready to cut in. this 1 is placed opposite side, because it much easier to clamp 2 flats together.

292898170_590174706000428_671629674266291181_n.jpg
 
i said screw it and took a vaca day today.

tongue is all fit up with my stiffeners.
i got a coupe additional stiffeners welded in from the other end of the tongue support beam back to the channel just in front of the wheels.

about to start into the 1st side of my rail fix..................... pics up later.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Irun
tongue pieces. that lends support so that 4" span won't be springy.

292676063_4940577419398317_1747629892335637487_n.jpg



i added some belly stiffeners too. from the rear of the 3" pictured above. i didn't wanna carry them back further until axles had been placed. i sistered them up about 6"and they run back to the cross member right b4 the axles.

292875684_1308858719922538_7062408187868715435_n.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Irun
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
couldn't weld Sat or Sun it was raining. Sat i dodged the showers and got the tail lights brackets made and got all that fit. Sun was a total wash out. i got those 1/2" plates shown above shaped up, the tube in the center will stay.
to what's seen above, i'm gonna take what i cut off the rail and flip it around and use it for an inner edge on my humps. she got a meeting tomrw eve so maybe i'll have time to get it all set and at least tacked together.

the 2x material is the same height as the step cut on that 1/2" plate, it's not gonna leave much to run over so i think i'm just gonna go for a box with the diamond plate and i can use lumber to make my angles onto and off of it as well as along side it, just enough to break any hard edges



i'll have to add some angles to support the flooring, can't have any floaters.

fix1.PNG
 
Last edited:
i've been chippin away when i can. just hasn't been anything good to post.

i do have the side shown above almost finished, gotta shear the top to size tormw and it's the last piece on that side. it was a bit more welding than expected to put it all together, but it's' tied well and should do the trick. the other side should go faster, i know what needs done.

my biggest issue is rust. i cannot start anything and leave it mid point........just the morning dew rusts the new welds and raw steel, it's been a constant battle to either get done all the way to paint or know i need to clean it b4 working that area next time i get ti it or priming temp'd stuff and having to strip all that b4 final welding and repainting.

burnt up my HF CM welder......the washers on the power line melted into carbon dust and were not conducting any more, so i put some fancy grade 2 zinc plated washers on it ............that'll teach it right.........works again and runs cooler actually, but i'm lookin for an excuse to have me that eastwood 250. this -20-30% duty cycle stuff is killin me. i set a job up and weld it out last and all i do is wait for this machine to cool enough to run the next bead or 2.
20% is 2m out of 10.......more like 2 runs and done for 8-10m. the eastwood runs 60% at max power, lincoln doesn't at least not the units i could afford and miller is even further out of reach.

295345496_463201465330286_4967746632561775448_n.jpg


294605457_461090128825463_8506652913455002901_n.jpg

dodging rain drops over the wkend i got all the wiring done in the main box...... all that's left is to tie in the e-brake switch.
 
Last edited:
well 1 side is totally done, paint and all. i'm past 1/2 way on the other side. hopefully to finish that up tomrw morn. gonna take my girlie to the county fair tomrw eve.

i'm kinda ready for lumber soon, so i may get that Sun and start treating it, so it's ready.
 
our 1 yr old refrigerator had a recall. something about bad hinges, so i'm home today waiting on the repair man.

Saturday morn didn't quite go as planned, i got a late start due to some back pain and just as i got going the neighbor started settin up for a birthday party and that cut the welding and painting short of finished. i was able to get that welding finished up yesterday along with a couple gussets to hold marker lamps b4 moving on to the coupler plate.

this coupler plate is multi position/height for the coupler, rather than depending on always having the right ball rise or drop for any given vehicle.
i'm kinda guestimating here now...... the trailers sitting pretty level, so i positioned my trucks ball to be about 1" above the coupler head figuring the weight of the trailer will sag me that inch and i'll be at that pretty level point again.........IDK if thats where she's gonna wanna follow best or not but i can change the position by 2" either way if needed.

i'll try and get some pics up later.
 
gonna have to make me some big gussets for the coupler frame and got some paint on the newer stuff. it's gonna rain the next 4-5 dys on and off.

295811001_1255169731900970_113663718566084824_n.jpg


295707907_592193245958804_964079029884215376_n.jpg

i'd really like to get a solid uniform coat of paint on it b4 decking it. i'm gonna look at summit and eastwoods and see what they got.
 
Last edited:
might have my old springs and shocks sold, a guy that seems interested is supposed to be by tomrw eve. i never posted them on here TBH i just don't want to have to bother packing them to ship.

i looked into some paint for the trailer and there isn't much out there that i think would be worth it, i don't have the proper start to top coat this mess with an auto paint.
Summit offers a farm implement paint from Krylon for tractors and such it's spray-able and only 80$ a gl. i might look into this more.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
i looked into some paint for the trailer and there isn't much out there that i think would be worth it, i don't have the proper start to top coat this mess with an auto paint.
Summit offers a farm implement paint from Krylon for tractors and such it's spray-able and only 80$ a gl. i might look into this more.

Other than being pretty expensive what about the Steel It paints?
 
Other than being pretty expensive what about the Steel It paints?

IDK never used it, i'll peek at it.
i was trying to stay cheap, everything has been washed down with acetone b4 hitting it with the etching primer and then rustoleum flat black. what i need is something that will adhere well to the flat black.

i might roll some bed liner onto those fender tops those will see some wear and that surface may have more grip than painted steel if the wheels are wet or muddy.
 
Other than being pretty expensive what about the Steel It paints?

118$ a qt...o_O i'd need like 5 of um.

well my buyer fell through......he starts tellin me about his lift. an MC LA lock n load set up for 6" of lift. no way he can slap some 3.5's on there and have any room to run that LA link from under the frame like they mount it. so he called MC and they confirm it'd about kill his up travel due to frame contact. just to retain 4-5" of up he needs at least a 4.5" lift spring. i should keep my mouth shut until i have cash in hand but i'm not that guy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lBasket
118$ a qt...o_O i'd need like 5 of um.

well my buyer fell through......he starts tellin me about his lift. an MC LA lock n load set up for 6" of lift. no way he can slap some 3.5's on there and have any room to run that LA link from under the frame like they mount it. so he called MC and they confirm it'd about kill his up travel due to frame contact. just to retain 4-5" of up he needs at least a 4.5" lift spring. i should keep my mouth shut until i have cash in hand but i'm not that guy.

I was thinking rattle cans for ya. But a pack of 8 is $280.... I wonder how many it'd take to paint the whole frame?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MLXV9BB/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
I was thinking rattle cans for ya. But a pack of 8 is $280.... I wonder how many it'd take to paint the whole frame?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MLXV9BB/?tag=wranglerorg-20

i been through about a dozen of those bigger job sized cans of flat black already, but some of that has been redundant work. i figure 4-6 more depending on how simple i can keep the ramps.

speakin of the ramps, i either have to support the ramp or the ramp mount has to support the jeep.
so it's either that rather fugly heavy A frame gizmo that braces itself once you drop it. or i need some heavy ass angle to hang it onto that back tube, heavy enough to hold the weight of 1/2 the jeep safely. if i hang the ramps then i need jacks on the ass, which i was kinda planning on either way. already made a set and some guys got some NIB 24" 5k rated scissors for sale locally i wanna grab this wkend.

i have something i was workin......... i'll get a pic of the mock up later........, i'm not sure it's enough.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
might have my old springs and shocks sold, a guy that seems interested is supposed to be by tomrw eve. i never posted them on here TBH i just don't want to have to bother packing them to ship.

i looked into some paint for the trailer and there isn't much out there that i think would be worth it, i don't have the proper start to top coat this mess with an auto paint.
Summit offers a farm implement paint from Krylon for tractors and such it's spray-able and only 80$ a gl. i might look into this more.

The farm and implement paint is good stuff. Run down to TSC and pick up the paint, some reducer and Hardener and spray it from a HF 20 dollar gun. I've used it quite a bit on mower decks, tractors, trailers, things that take a beating. It takes a while to fully cure (like a week) but it dries hard. Its not powdercoat hard, but its SO much better than rattlecans. Its the same base as the rustoleum already there too (alkyd enamel) so you shouldn't have compatibility issues.

Here is my last tractor I painted with that paint. The hardener gives it some shine and durability.

1659566569441.png


1659566622645.png




1659566642233.png



I've actually contemplated being "that guy" and painting the jeep with it...but I can't justify the work to paint without doing it right. The Farm and implement stuff doesn't have the UV protection like a good automotive paint does, so something that sits outside all the time is going to fade.