Stretched TJK (bigger rubber & extra inches)

[B00mb00m]

WMS is wider, bigger ring gear, 35 spline rear capable, 32 spline front capable, stronger unit bearings and ball joints, half the weight of a Dana 60.

You forgot bolt on bigger brakes (way bigger if you get JT / JL HD) and really the greatest improvement is high pinion. Ball joints are not any stronger than TJ and that is the weak link. 35 spline is an option for the front internal also, 32S Rubicon front outer.

 

[B00mb00m]

I plan on hydro. A 6.75" ram was ordered yesterday. I have a route for the hoses but I may end up shortening the 3/4" track bar mount to sneak them between the TB & DL as you did. I have a set of 12" Fox emulsions on the shelf. This is the area where I'll need some help. I see alot of guys mounting tabs on top of the axle tube. I'd like to get it lower, behind the axle, so my shock towers aren't so high. We will see. What brake hoses do you have? I was debating on running individual lines on the upper link but are yours long enough with 12" travel?

Emulsions gross!!! I didn't try the behind the axle just got to tack and cycle a bunch to make sure everything clears.

Brake hoses I followed Blaine and Toximus examples. Stainless hard line on the axles and soft lines ran down the Uca. It was a fun project and I recommend it.

 

[B00mb00m]

From what I understand using the 1310 as the fuse in the system is the easiest trail fix and limits axle shaft failure.

1310 has been no issue for me.

 

[TRE3TOP]

1310 has been no issue for me.

I’m not saying it’s an issue. I’m saying it’s the advisable “weakest link” so it goes before an axle shaft or ring and pinion.

 

[sierradmax]

Emulsions gross!!! I didn't try the behind the axle just got to tack and cycle a bunch to make sure everything clears.

Brake hoses I followed Blaine and Toximus examples. Stainless hard line on the axles and soft lines ran down the Uca. It was a fun project and I recommend it.

Emulsions, I know.. I'm sure they'll work fine for my grandpa style crawling.

 

[sierradmax]

So, Aluminum links & driveshaft are due in tomorrow.. I'm trying to keep vertical separation, at the frame, fairly close for neutral Anti-Dive values but again, packaging gets tight. At full stuff, I fear the driveshaft will come real close to the upper link. Pictured is an 1-1/4" PVC pipe with an OD of 1-5/8". I think most Driveshafts use 2" DOM. I purchased a 2" aluminum upper link for using 1-1/4 thread JJ's, which I'm told is overkill. I guess if millimetres count, I can swap to a 1" threaded joint & a narrower link. The Driveshaft has a narrow window to clear between exhaust & UCA mount.

 

[jeepster1407]

So, Aluminum links & driveshaft are due in tomorrow.. I'm trying to keep vertical separation, at the frame, fairly close for neutral Anti-Dive values but again, packaging gets tight. At full stuff, I fear the driveshaft will come real close to the upper link. Pictured is an 1-1/4" PVC pipe with an OD of 1-5/8". I think most Driveshafts use 2" DOM. I purchased a 2" aluminum upper link for using 1-1/4 thread JJ's, which I'm told is overkill. I guess if millimetres count, I can swap to a 1" threaded joint & a narrower link. The Driveshaft has a narrow window to clear between exhaust & UCA mount.

Likely overkill for crawling. But the moneys already spent so I wouldn't go back now. I've seen some people machine down the OD of the link right there next to the driveshaft flange just a little. That would be a cheap fix for you if you end up touching at full stuff.

 

[mrblaine]

With control arm mounts tacked in place, 1-1/4" PVC mock-up links to 28"+/-, I dropped the axle to ride height, attached the drag link and started working on an axle side track bar mount. Anyone guess what I'm using to mock up as a track bar?

View attachment 309695

View attachment 309696

I've not read further as I'm just going down the posts but two things. First is EMT and second is why the misalignment spacers on the trackbar rod end? Fully not needed. Put the ball of the rod end against the end of the tube on the inner C.

 

[sierradmax]

I've not read further as I'm just going down the posts but two things. First is EMT and second is why the misalignment spacers on the trackbar rod end? Fully not needed. Put the ball of the rod end against the end of the tube on the inner C.

Correct.. A free mock-up track bar. Thanks for the pointer on the rod end. I thought it would need additional misalignment. Easy fix with the correct rod end.

 

[mrblaine]

Correct.. A free mock-up track bar. Thanks for the pointer on the rod end. I thought it would need additional misalignment. Easy fix with the correct rod end.

It only needs enough misalignment to follow the axle as it moves front to back as it cycles. Unless you set one side too far so the bar isn't relatively square to the axle, the worst you will have to do is lightly bevel the end of the tube.

 

[sierradmax]

So, my 3/4" DOM track bar mount warped a bit when I burned it to the axle C. I take it that's a good thing as burning it hot got good penetration. But what I feared is true, the bolt won't go through now. Looks like I'll need a 3/4" drill bit to ream it out.

Any pointers for initial coilover/shock tower mount locations?

 

[mrblaine]

So, my 3/4" DOM track bar mount warped a bit when I burned it to the axle C. I take it that's a good thing as burning it hot got good penetration. But what I feared is true, the bolt won't go through now. Looks like I'll need a 3/4" drill bit to ream it out.

Any pointers for initial coilover/shock tower mount locations?

Get a 3/4" chucking reamer with a 1/2" shank.

 

[kmas0n]

Get a 3/4" chucking reamer with a 1/2" shank.

Another tool I didn't know existed. Thanks for this

 

[sierradmax]

Links and driveshaft arrived last week and were installed this weekend. At ride height, I started with 7 degrees of caster, which I may back off a bit. Pinion angle is 7* and Driveshaft angle is 7.5*. Track bar and drag link are within .1* of each other. Driveshaft clearance gets real tight. At full bump, the damn grease fitting could not have been placed at a better location..(sarcasm). Looks like I'll need a flush zerk.

 

[sierradmax]

Here's where I need some help. My first question, Is too much down travel a bad thing?

I began playing with shock towers (Poly Performance) and a cardboard mock-up lower coilover mount. One side of the coilover mount will get welded to the axle tube, the other will straddle the control arm mount. As pictured, the tower sits within the engine bay with 2"+/- of height left over.

Current travel:
Bump: 22.75"
Ride height: 28.25"
Droop: 37" (disc on the ground).. I'm sure it can go more.

Poly's towers are short, compared to other manufacturers. Should I get a 2" taller tower & go with a 16" coilover?

 

[Mike_H]

Here's where I need some help. My first question, Is too much down travel a bad thing?

I began playing with shock towers (Poly Performance) and a cardboard mock-up lower coilover mount. One side of the coilover mount will get welded to the axle tube, the other will straddle the control arm mount. As pictured, the tower sits within the engine bay with 2"+/- of height left over.

Current travel:
Bump: 22.75"
Ride height: 28.25"
Droop: 37" (disc on the ground).. I'm sure it can go more.

Poly's towers are short, compared to other manufacturers. Should I get a 2" taller tower & go with a 16" coilover?

View attachment 311023

View attachment 311024

View attachment 311025

View attachment 311026

Can your driveshaft spin with that kind of droop?

 

[sierradmax]

Can your driveshaft spin with that kind of droop?

Just confirmed. Yes, it still spins with 21*, full droop.

 

[someguysjeep]

Poly's towers are short, compared to other manufacturers. Should I get a 2" taller tower & go with a 16" coilover?

i got 14" ORI's up front and my tower tops out just under the grill support rod level with the axle mounts on top of the tube at the base of the C's.
stuff the front axle to max. should put your upper joint right up close to the A/C compressor if the axle is clean enough. that's about all we can get.
then measure up from your axle mount point to your collapsed shock distance and it'll show ya where the top needs to be.

kinda looks tilted to much you'll never get a 2" tube down that string line that tight to the back side of the tower.

 

[sierradmax]

i got 14" ORI's up front and my tower tops out just under the grill support rod level with the axle mounts on top of the tube at the base of the C's.
stuff the front axle to max. should put your upper joint right up close to the A/C compressor if the axle is clean enough. that's about all we can get.
then measure up from your axle mount point to your collapsed shock distance and it'll show ya where the top needs to be.

kinda looks tilted to much you'll never get a 2" tube down that string line that tight to the back side of the tower.

The last picture, the string is loose. Yes, my upper joint is real close to the A/C compressor. I ordered 14" Fox coilovers and I'll adjust my towers to fit, measuring such that 1/2" of shaft remains at bump. Now to figure out how to build a removable tower brace.

 

[mrblaine]

The last picture, the string is loose. Yes, my upper joint is real close to the A/C compressor. I ordered 14" Fox coilovers and I'll adjust my towers to fit, measuring such that 1/2" of shaft remains at bump. Now to figure out how to build a removable tower brace.

I would encourage you to not leave 1/2" of shaft at bump. In the front you need a hard bump that is the absolute limit of how far stuff can move. If you put a 1/2" of shaft showing and your upper joint is less than 1/2" from the AC compressor body, then a hard stuff of the front can result in damage to the compressor when the motor moves down on the rubber mounts to meet the axle coming up and the frame flexing.