Yeah, I would start hitting it with penetrant fluid for a few days and let it sit, like a couple days
I've only done front suspension not rear but this summer I may get into the rear of my LJ a bit. Even folks with clean jeeps have complained about those 4 bolts.
If I understand correctly you just drill a hole through the bolts, then slip another bolt in with a new nut on top? How easy is that with no body lift? I've never tried reaching into the crossmember with my hand very much except to rinse it out. So not sure how much space there is.
Some people suggest using this tool but you would have to cut the old welded nuts off to use this.
https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-xj-rear-bar-pin-flag-nut-1082.html
If I understand correctly you just drill a hole through the bolts, then slip another bolt in with a new nut on top? How easy is that with no body lift? I've never tried reaching into the crossmember with my hand very much except to rinse it out. So not sure how much space there is.
Some people suggest using this tool but you would have to cut the old welded nuts off to use this.
https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-xj-rear-bar-pin-flag-nut-1082.html
@Logan_H do this but don't waste your time with pb blaster, WD-40, etc. I recommend a 50-50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid in a spray bottle. Soak those things from above, make sure to get the threads on the top side so it seeps down into the nut. Do this daily for a week before even attempting removal.
When you're ready, start turning the bolt. If it feels like it's hanging up, turn it the other way (yes, tightening) a hair before going back to the loosening direction. Keep doing this rocking back and forth until it frees up and you can turn it the rest of the way out. As tempting as it is, avoid using a large breaker bar or even a 1/2" drive at all. Staying with the 3/8" ratchet will keep you in the ballpark of what those bolts can handle and help you be more sensitive to how much business you can give it.
If it breaks off it's a turd sandwich, so I put every effort into not making that happen. The above strategy has been successful on the last 2 I've done, including the one where I used the grinder on 5 out of 8 lower control arm bolts and both axle end track bar bolts.
I would advise getting some Kroil and spraying them down. Give it a few days of repeated treatment to let it work and that may help. You may get lucky and work them out. Loosen, tighten, a little more spray, loosen, etc. I had to do the drill out and re-tap to clean the threads up on my last jeep. It sucked. Unless you have access to a lift, it is laying under and drilling upwards. A body lift sits on top of the area you are drilling. Get a good light, good bits, and a full face shield to go over your safety specs. It wasn't a quick fix, but take your time. I put in new grade 8 bolts with generous amount of anti-seize. I have already started spraying the bolts on the new TJ I have now so hopefully I don't have to repeat the ordeal. I am also looking at bar pin eliminator brackets too.
Good luck.
I was also looking at the bar pin eliminator brackets can you send what you were looking at?
After typing up my last post I purchased these. I guess thanks for the push.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZHTC589/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Nope - drill the guts out of the existing nuts and use longer bolts...
Rear uppers were such a pain. Soaked, bolt snapped in no time. I think was able to fit a chisel between the body and tub and break it off with a lot of effort.
Edit: Even found these lovely photos to remind me
Edit: Even found these lovely photos to remind me
Getting those bolts smoking hot like with a torch is often the key to getting them removed without breaking them.
Results of a test performed on different penetrating oils from a while back... (unsure of the source)
Penetrant ————————————————————— Average Load
None ———————————————————————— 516 Ft. Lbs.
WD-40 ——————————————————————— 238 Ft. Lbs.
PB Blaster ————————————————————- 214 Ft. Lbs.
Liquid Wrench —————————————————— 127 Ft. Lbs.
Kano Kroil ————————————————————— 106 Ft. Lbs.
ATF/Acetone Mix ————————————————- 53 Ft. Lbs.
Penetrant ————————————————————— Average Load
None ———————————————————————— 516 Ft. Lbs.
WD-40 ——————————————————————— 238 Ft. Lbs.
PB Blaster ————————————————————- 214 Ft. Lbs.
Liquid Wrench —————————————————— 127 Ft. Lbs.
Kano Kroil ————————————————————— 106 Ft. Lbs.
ATF/Acetone Mix ————————————————- 53 Ft. Lbs.
I think the original source, where they actually did the tests, was Machinist's Workshop magazine, April 2007. Followed, of course, by many dozens of copycat articles and YouTube videos.
Notice that PB Blaster and WD-40 are in the "quite mediocre" neighborhood.
The DIY mix is the best, and costs about 1/4 of what Kroil costs (last time I made some).
Notice that PB Blaster and WD-40 are in the "quite mediocre" neighborhood.
The DIY mix is the best, and costs about 1/4 of what Kroil costs (last time I made some).
I remember reading the original article too... they did it all sciency with all new bolts/nuts and torqued all the same, then subjected them to a corrosion chamber to get them all "aged" the same, then did the same soak time and loosening all with same torque system.
Similar threads
