Super short SYE

mrblaine said:
I don't believe the 4" lift number is accurate. Could be, but I doubt it.

Get me a dimension from the bottom of the front spring on the driver's side front to the bottom of the isolator. 4" of lift puts that number right at 16".

Get the angled trackbar mount before you move anything. It makes a big difference. No need to move the tank at all. Simply drop the trackbar and add some forward bend to it where it rubs. I just did a JKS bar a couple of days ago that was set up the same way as yours. The bend over the exhaust was hitting on full stuff, we added some bend past it so when the axle was all the way up, the bend over the exhaust didn't go up as high. It was hitting on the crossmember where the bolts are for the gas tank skid. We added some bend and moved that section of the bar forward and then bent it back closer to the mount. The main reason the Currie bar clears as well as it does is I bent one up and sent it over to them to help with the design.
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It's 16 1/4
 
just for another reference my rear track bar is at a 10 degree angle and my loaded front drivers side springs measure 16" +-. i also have a 4" lift.
 
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Forty said:
How did you bend it? And yes I am absolutely going to try just the track bar mount before moving into any other options. Mostly the problem is I bought this jeep with everything that's currently on it, therefore I am the new engineer to someone else's re-engineered cluster F lol.
In all honesty I have no problems wrenching and can pretty much figure out most things, but brand-new to the jeep world, driveline angles, skid plates, track bars, etc.
I ordered the JKS angle track bar mount and it should be in this week. Do you mind if I reference you for what I got going on?
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We just set them in the shop press on some blocks with half round cut outs in one side and mash them where we want them to bend with a chunk of aluminum sitting on the top side to slow down any kinking.

Reference away.
 
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Eddie Greenlee said:
I just figured ( and for no other reason ) the longer the drive shaft the better. So ya got to ask yourself why an sye anyway, I guess the #1 reason is to be able to use a double cardon universal joint system. There are several advantages to a SYE, I just figure thats #1. I think the SS is even 3" shorter than the standard SYE. I have 33s on so I dont think the speed meter will be an issue. I talked to Tom Woods and one of his last statements was the quote, if you have no issues now, try your 8.8 swap with your current setup and see if you get vibrations. " if its not broken, dont fix it" Now this came after a long conversation about SYEs and types of drive shafts, and how the geometry works with angles and double cardon universal joints and how they offset each other and angles of pinions ....... So in my unprofessional, and average joe opinion, you are on the right track to eliminating your vibration. I guess there are so many things that can effect vibrations and ya just have to go through them one at a time.
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Yeah I swear the sye I have only shortened my driveshaft which is why I'm running into the problems I am. I bought the jeep set up the way it is. Aside from replacing some old worn parts with new it's the same way I bought it.... I did go to 35's from 33's and that's the only change. I like the Savvy UA and that's really the only reason I'm having issues. I know if I just drop the T case to normal height I'll be good, but seriously that's way to less of a headache! .
I'm hoping the angled rear track bar mount handles the problem, if not a sssye it is, if not FML lol.
 
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You need to post another photo, one that shows the rear axle and its pinion shaft's angular relationship to the driveshaft. None of your previous photos show that.

What we need to see is that area shown in the right-hand half of this illustration... I don't care what the angle at the CV looks like.

cv_angle.gif
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
You need to post another photo, one that shows the rear axle and its pinion shaft's angular relationship to the driveshaft. None of your previous photos show that.

What we need to see is that area shown in the right-hand half of this illustration... I don't care what the angle at the CV looks like.

View attachment 11746
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Ok I'll get it tomorrow afternoon and post.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
You need to post another photo, one that shows the rear axle and its pinion shaft's angular relationship to the driveshaft. None of your previous photos show that.

What we need to see is that area shown in the right-hand half of this illustration... I don't care what the angle at the CV looks like.

View attachment 11746
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Here are some pics

IMG_0679.JPG


IMG_0682.JPG


IMG_0683.JPG
 
That looks ok though those photos are taken from a bit forward of where it'd be easier to tell. I'd move the camera position back until it's pointing directly at the pinion instead of pointing back towards the pinion.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
That looks ok though those photos are taken from a bit forward of where it'd be easier to tell. I'd move the camera position back until it's pointing directly at the pinion instead of pointing back towards the pinion.
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How are these?

IMG_0692.JPG


IMG_0693.JPG


IMG_0694.JPG
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Hard to say for sure but that angle ok. Again, we don't care about the angle at the CV. :)
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Typically I agree, but my last cv was binding like crazy at the same angle. This one has a little more manufactured clearance. I'm wondering if it could also be a wear pattern in the gear in my rear dif?
Either way the new angled track bar mount is in route and it's oil pan gasket time before my next $$$ lol. Due to the cold And not having a garage I paid the supposed "jeep guy" to do my oil pan and gasket. Well it's leaking and he doesn't want to screw anyone else over on jobs lined up so he can take care of the guy that already paid him. What a joke.
 
Forty said:
Typically I agree, but my last cv was binding like crazy at the same angle. This one has a little more manufactured clearance. I'm wondering if it could also be a wear pattern in the gear in my rear dif?
Either way the new angled track bar mount is in route and it's oil pan gasket time before my next $$$ lol. Due to the cold And not having a garage I paid the supposed "jeep guy" to do my oil pan and gasket. Well it's leaking and he doesn't want to screw anyone else over on jobs lined up so he can take care of the guy that already paid him. What a joke.
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The only way to know for sure is to put the frame on stands, pull the tires and then disconnect the driveshaft at the pinion. Once that is done, drop the axle down to full droop on the shocks and with the t-case in neutral, turn the driveshaft and find the higher of the two low spots. When you find that, see if that angle will let it hook up to the pinion.

If it will, it isn't in a bind. If it won't, it is at full droop.
 
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I wasn't saying the angle at the CV can't cause problems, just that it's not part of setting up the rear pinion angle. An excessive angle at the CV like when the axle is at full droop will cause binding inside the CV but it's just not something that needed to be seen to verify if the pinion angle is set correctly.
 
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I hear ya. I'm hoping the angled track bar mount will give me the room to adjust my control arms, mainly the lowers adding a little length to my driveshaft and decreasing the overall driveshaft angle.
I had my tires rebalanced and an alignment done today but the vibes are still there. Mainly noticeable at 60+.
I'm wondering if maybe the 4.56 gear in the rear dif just has a funny wear in it? At this point it's almost a mind F@#€.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Personally, I would only go with a super-short SYE if I had an extremely tall lift. For most lifts, and I have had up to 5.5" of lift when I had my previous RE lift, a standard SYE works fine. Why go with a standard SYE over a SS SYE? Because a standard SYE still uses the speedometer gear housing and speedometer gears so you don't have to also purchase and install an electronic speedometer calibrator.

So far as a good source for a SYE and CV driveshaft goes, I have been trusting Tom Wood at www.4xshaft.com for 15+ years now. He carries good quality SYE and CV driveshaft kits, and his pre and post sales support is unsurpassed. Plus Tom is just a super nice guy, I finally had the chance to meet him several years ago at a 4x4 show. If you call them, ask for Tom personally and tell them I sent you directly to Tom. :)
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So jerry
I have the ford 8.8
Regular sye and dc driveshaft
Ome 2.5 lift
Ucf tummy tuck
2 degree difference at drivshaft
Have never been able to get rid of the vibration over 65mph.
I believe the ssye Kit is my only option
My rear control arms are adjusted to max length on upper. I guess I welded my brackets too steep at 17*
i may need to sell the rear axle bc it’s perfect for someone with a tall lift and no Tummy tuck I guess
 
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