Taking up Sewing - Need Advice

[NashvilleTJ]

Not sure where best to drop this, but since it involves a tool I thought I’d drop it here.

I’m giving some thought to picking up a heavy duty sewing machine for doing canvas work, strap repair, sewing mis-spelled labels onto Tool Wraps, etc. Anyone have any advice for what to look for in a machine, which brands to seek out or to avoid, size, capacity, or anything else which may guide me?

One of the first projects I’m considering is creating some zippered heavy canvas bags to store/carry my half doors.

Hoping @jscherb stumbles across this thread.

Thanks in advance.

 

[TJ Jim]

We had a sewing plant here called Serbin many years ago. They had a lot of commercial sewing machines that they sold when they went out of business. Oh what I’d give if I could have bought one of them. I did get to borrow one from a work associate and completely upholstered my 1973 International Scout. What a wonderful machine! I’ve shopped online trying to find one of those machines, but a good one is$$$$$$$$.

 

[Fulton_Hogan]

One place I'd recommend bookmarking is sailrite.com. They have loads of information on canvas and like-materials as well as hardware and technical guidance.

I used one of their tutorial videos to make a soft-sided nylon cargo bag I attached via the footman loops behind my rear seat. (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/cargo-area-secured-duffel-bag-diy.55681/#post-974330)

One of the best items they demonstrated using was double-sided seam tape. It's much easier to use than rubber/contact cement. I even started using it in my leatherwork that I hand sew. Absolutely no mess or hassle to use and it keeps everything aligned for sewing.

If you're going to work with nylon/poly material, get a heat knife. Don't question it. I also saw it in use in the same Sailrite tutorial and thought, maybe I should try one. I didn't buy it from them, but found a comparable one on Amazon. It's been perfect to use and great at keeping the edges of nylon/poly material or straps from fraying. I even use it to cut nylon/poly ropes and it seals as it cuts. No need to melt them with a lighter.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

One place I'd recommend bookmarking is sailrite.com. They have loads of information on canvas and like-materials as well as hardware and technical guidance.

I used one of their tutorial videos to make a soft-sided nylon cargo bag I attached via the footman loops behind my rear seat. (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/cargo-area-secured-duffel-bag-diy.55681/#post-974330)

One of the best items they demonstrated using was double-sided seam tape. It's much easier to use than rubber/contact cement. I even started using it in my leatherwork that I hand sew. Absolutely no mess or hassle to use and it keeps everything aligned for sewing.

If you're going to work with nylon/poly material, get a heat knife. Don't question it. I also saw it in use in the same Sailrite tutorial and thought, maybe I should try one. I didn't buy it from them, but found a comparable one on Amazon. It's been perfect to use and great at keeping the edges of nylon/poly material or straps from fraying. I even use it to cut nylon/poly ropes and it seals as it cuts. No need to melt them with a lighter.

Great info and a great project. Thanks for pointing me to your thread.

 

[Fulton_Hogan]

Great info and a great project. Thanks for pointing me to your thread.

Sure thing! That's why the forum exists, sharing all our efforts.

 

[BlueC]

I’m giving some thought to picking up a heavy duty sewing machine for... sewing mis-spelled labels onto Tool Wraps

And who is your target customer for this service?

I'm interested to see how this turns out for you. Interior works/upholstery/sewing seems just slightly less intimidating than electrical work to me.

 

[TJ Jim]

And who is your target customer for this service?

I'm interested to see how this turns out for you. Interior works/upholstery/sewing seems just slightly less intimidating than electrical work to me.

The upholstery work is actually quite a bit of fun and relaxing. If I didn’t have so many other fun expensive hobbies (Jeep) I’d start getting into upholstery.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

And who is your target customer for this service?

I'm interested to see how this turns out for you. Interior works/upholstery/sewing seems just slightly less intimidating than electrical work to me.

I’ll never live that one down. It’s been over a year and even mild-mannered @JMT took a shot at me about it just the other day…

 

[BlueC]

The upholstery work is actually quite a bit of fun and relaxing. If I didn’t have so many other fun expensive hobbies (Jeep) I’d start getting into upholstery.

I’ve never tried upholstery work in any manner above crudely stitching patches, and doing a little door panel work. There's definitely a market for it. Around here, there are only a few shops catering toward automotive/marine upholstery work. The bad ones aren't cheap and produce mediocre work. The goods ones aren't cheap and have no sense of urgency. Maybe the good quality shops are doing it for fun and relaxation? They should put that on their sign.

A business name could be "Sew much time, sew much fun", and I’d understand it's going to take a while.

 

[TJ4Jim]

Not sure where best to drop this, but since it involves a tool I thought I’d drop it here.

I’m giving some thought to picking up a heavy duty sewing machine for doing canvas work, strap repair, sewing mis-spelled labels onto Tool Wraps, etc. Anyone have any advice for what to look for in a machine, which brands to seek out or to avoid, size, capacity, or anything else which may guide me?

One of the first projects I’m considering is creating some zippered heavy canvas bags to store/carry my half doors.

Hoping @jscherb stumbles across this thread.

Thanks in advance.

I picked up an older German made Sailmaster machine a few years ago and have been teaching myself the basics. I really just sat down with the machine and played with all the features using old rags.

 

[Zorba]

Definitely get a industrial machine, not a domestic - not even a domestic that some eBay idiot shows sewing through 5 layers of leather. Yea, it can do it - for a time. Old industrials can be had for a few hundred dollars if one shops carefully.

 

[Mike_H]

I’ve had good luck with my moms old pfaff. That damn thing is probably 40 years old, she can still get parts for it, and, while it’s not an industrial machine, it will do some HD stuff. I did some vinyl boat cushions a bit ago with it. I actually just borrowed it again to make sew some webbing straps for battery hold downs.

An old singer (not foot pedal old) would probably be good too.

 

[Zorba]

I’ve had good luck with my moms old pfaff. That damn thing is probably 40 years old, she can still get parts for it, and, while it’s not an industrial machine, it will do some HD stuff. I did some vinyl boat cushions a bit ago with it.

An old singer (not foot pedal old) would probably be good too.

I'll repeat myself: They'll do it for "awhile".

 

[JMT]

I’ll never live that one down. It’s been over a year and even mild-mannered @JMT took a shot at me about it just the other day…

I only jab my friends!

This won’t help for what you’re trying to do, but for someone who wants to undertake small projects by hand I used this kit. I’ve sewed up cuts in wheel well liners and doubled over leather straps.

 

[jscherb]

Not sure where best to drop this, but since it involves a tool I thought I’d drop it here.

I’m giving some thought to picking up a heavy duty sewing machine for doing canvas work, strap repair, sewing mis-spelled labels onto Tool Wraps, etc. Anyone have any advice for what to look for in a machine, which brands to seek out or to avoid, size, capacity, or anything else which may guide me?

One of the first projects I’m considering is creating some zippered heavy canvas bags to store/carry my half doors.

Hoping @jscherb stumbles across this thread.

Thanks in advance.

Sorry it took me a day to respond, I was away all day yesterday with no ability to respond.

First I'll say that you don't want any of the current mostly plastic home-use sewing machines, but you have already heard that from others who responded.

I've got two machines. The first machine I got was an early 60's Janome New Home "Dual Duty". My father bought it used maybe 40 years ago for sewing canvas for his boat and it got handed down to me. These are all metal and extremely robust so they have no problem with sewing most canvas projects. The "Double Duty" part of the name is because it was intended as a heavy-duty home/medium duty commercial machine. It's from the era when sewing machines didn't have plastic parts. They just keep on going, they're regularly on eBay and they're a bargain if you're doing canvas work for Jeeps or boats.

Some of the projects I did with that machine...

A lot of my canvas/leather designs get picked up by Overland Outfitters for production. This HD MOLLE Tailgate Panel is heavy canvas (24 oz.) with leather MOLLE straps and accents. This is the prototype I sewed on the Janome that they later put in production:

I sewed the roll-up soft sides for my LJ Safari Cab with it. They're made from reused factory soft top fabric and the machine even sewed through the plastic retainer strips the hold the bottom of the panels in place, although the plastic I used was a bit thinner than the plastic the factory soft tops use. The Janome had no problem with the plastic strips or with sewing the windows in place which meant sewing through multiple layers of hem and plastic window material.

Also made this "covered wagon" canopy for my military replica trailer with the Janome, so large things can be sewn on it too.

These machines (and similar ones) regularly sell for around $100 on eBay; there's one on there now although it doesn't seem to include the foot pedal. A pedal shouldn't be hard to source: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2657182596...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

The Janome is a great machine and a lot of Jeep projects can be done with it, but there are some projects it really doesn't have the power to do. My other machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1, which is a much more powerful machine with a "Walking Foot". I'll explain that... ordinary machines have a presser foot that holds the fabric down under the needle, and a feed dog below the table that moves back and forth to pull the fabric through the machine. The presser foot is stationary and the fabric slides beneath it. This photo from Wikipedia shows an ordinary presser foot (1) and feed dog (2) like the Janome has:

A Walking Foot has a presser foot that moves back and forth with the feed dog; because of that it can move much heavier fabric through the machine. This video explains:

This is my Sailrite machine:

It's got a few options, some of which are visible in this photo. First, it's got a heavyweight flywheel (metal wheel on the right side), which really helps sewing in heavier materials. Also it's got a servo motor rather than the standard motor; this is a much more powerful motor which also has a secondary speed control in addition to the speed control offered by the foot pedal. The speed control is the small knob sticking up from the top of the machine, and with it I can slow the machine down to multiple seconds per stitch when I need extreme accuracy and power. I also made an extension table out of Formica that gives me a larger flat surface level with the machine surface, this makes sewing larger things much easier.

As pictured, it's about a $1600 machine, so maybe not something someone new to sewing will buy as their first machine.

Some of the projects I've done with it...

I modified factory soft top sides to roll up. I did this for a JKU but the same technique can be applied to the TJ/LJ factory soft top sides, if people are interested I can post instructions. The reason it took the Sailrite machine to sew these is for sewing through the thick factory plastic retainers at the bottom, the Janome doesn't quite have the power to do that well.

This spare tire bag is made from factory twill soft top fabric, which is much thicker than ordinary soft top fabric. The Janome would have had trouble with the multiple layers at the seams.

Similarly, sewing complicated bags from heavy canvas and leather can be hard for a standard machine to pull through, which is where a walking foot comes in handy.

My recommendation: buy a machine like the Janome to start - it'll do most of the projects you want to do and it's very affordable. It's a great first machine and after you get experience and test the limits of that machine and decide to go further you can buy a used industrial machine or something like my Sailrite. (BTW my Sailrite machine was paid for by royalties from a design a company licensed from me, so maybe you'll be able to fund some of your your sewing that way ).

Also I'll second the recommendation from @Fulton_Hogan - get to know the Sailrite web site, they have lots of instruction videos for both beginners and more advanced subjects (like how to sew windows into canvas). They also have many supplies you'll want, like the Seamstick basting tape he mentioned.

Finally I'll say that I'm happy to offer any advice and guidance you might need as you get into sewing. I've done many Jeep-related projects, many of which have become commercial products, so if my experience can help you just ask.

 

[MaximusLJR06]

I do leatherwork on the side and handstitch most of my items, but I did pick up and industrial leather machine a couple months ago to help with bag making.
I have Cowboy CB4500 for this, which would be overkill for the needs you describe. I do have a second machine picked out and its specific purpose will be for canvas and cordura type fabric, Juki 1541S. The Juki is pretty pricey new but they can be found used and also copies from other manufacturers. I believe Cowboy makes a copy and is quite a bit cheaper. A Consew 206 would also be comparable to the Juki and great for canvas. Consews are typically easy to find on the used market.

If you want to check out any of my work. www.upnorthleather.com

 

[Apparition]

I do leatherwork on the side and handstitch most of my items, but I did pick up and industrial leather machine a couple months ago to help with bag making.
I have Cowboy CB4500 for this, which would be overkill for the needs you describe. I do have a second machine picked out and its specific purpose will be for canvas and cordura type fabric, Juki 1541S. The Juki is pretty pricey new but they can be found used and also copies from other manufacturers. I believe Cowboy makes a copy and is quite a bit cheaper. A Consew 206 would also be comparable to the Juki and great for canvas. Consews are typically easy to find on the used market.

If you want to check out any of my work. www.upnorthleather.com

Your link didn't work for me https://www.upnorthleather.com/

 

[TJ Jim]

I do leatherwork on the side and handstitch most of my items, but I did pick up and industrial leather machine a couple months ago to help with bag making.
I have Cowboy CB4500 for this, which would be overkill for the needs you describe. I do have a second machine picked out and its specific purpose will be for canvas and cordura type fabric, Juki 1541S. The Juki is pretty pricey new but they can be found used and also copies from other manufacturers. I believe Cowboy makes a copy and is quite a bit cheaper. A Consew 206 would also be comparable to the Juki and great for canvas. Consews are typically easy to find on the used market.

If you want to check out any of my work. www.upnorthleather.com

Link didn’t exactly work. Wants to sell your domain on godaddy?

 

[BlueC]

This spare tire bag is made from factory twill soft top fabric....

Similarly, sewing complicated bags from heavy canvas and leather can be hard for a standard machine to pull through....

I have zero experience with upholstery, so I don't even have a starting guess, what kind of time frame does it take for you to put together something like a bag?

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Sorry it took me a day to respond, I was away all day yesterday with no ability to respond.

First I'll say that you don't want any of the current mostly plastic home-use sewing machines, but you have already heard that from others who responded.

I've got two machines. The first machine I got was an early 60's Janome New Home "Dual Duty". My father bought it used maybe 40 years ago for sewing canvas for his boat and it got handed down to me. These are all metal and extremely robust so they have no problem with sewing most canvas projects. The "Double Duty" part of the name is because it was intended as a heavy-duty home/medium duty commercial machine. It's from the era when sewing machines didn't have plastic parts. They just keep on going, they're regularly on eBay and they're a bargain if you're doing canvas work for Jeeps or boats.

View attachment 430099

Some of the projects I did with that machine...

A lot of my canvas/leather designs get picked up by Overland Outfitters for production. This HD MOLLE Tailgate Panel is heavy canvas (24 oz.) with leather MOLLE straps and accents. This is the prototype I sewed on the Janome that they later put in production:

View attachment 430100

I sewed the roll-up soft sides for my LJ Safari Cab with it. They're made from reused factory soft top fabric and the machine even sewed through the plastic retainer strips the hold the bottom of the panels in place, although the plastic I used was a bit thinner than the plastic the factory soft tops use. The Janome had no problem with the plastic strips or with sewing the windows in place which meant sewing through multiple layers of hem and plastic window material.

View attachment 430101

Also made this "covered wagon" canopy for my military replica trailer with the Janome, so large things can be sewn on it too.

View attachment 430102

These machines (and similar ones) regularly sell for around $100 on eBay; there's one on there now although it doesn't seem to include the foot pedal. A pedal shouldn't be hard to source: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2657182596...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

The Janome is a great machine and a lot of Jeep projects can be done with it, but there are some projects it really doesn't have the power to do. My other machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1, which is a much more powerful machine with a "Walking Foot". I'll explain that... ordinary machines have a presser foot that holds the fabric down under the needle, and a feed dog below the table that moves back and forth to pull the fabric through the machine. The presser foot is stationary and the fabric slides beneath it. This photo from Wikipedia shows an ordinary presser foot (1) and feed dog (2) like the Janome has:

View attachment 430103

A Walking Foot has a presser foot that moves back and forth with the feed dog; because of that it can move much heavier fabric through the machine. This video explains:

This is my Sailrite machine:

View attachment 430104

It's got a few options, some of which are visible in this photo. First, it's got a heavyweight flywheel (metal wheel on the right side), which really helps sewing in heavier materials. Also it's got a servo motor rather than the standard motor; this is a much more powerful motor which also has a secondary speed control in addition to the speed control offered by the foot pedal. The speed control is the small knob sticking up from the top of the machine, and with it I can slow the machine down to multiple seconds per stitch when I need extreme accuracy and power. I also made an extension table out of Formica that gives me a larger flat surface level with the machine surface, this makes sewing larger things much easier.

As pictured, it's about a $1600 machine, so maybe not something someone new to sewing will buy as their first machine.

Some of the projects I've done with it...

I modified factory soft top sides to roll up. I did this for a JKU but the same technique can be applied to the TJ/LJ factory soft top sides, if people are interested I can post instructions. The reason it took the Sailrite machine to sew these is for sewing through the thick factory plastic retainers at the bottom, the Janome doesn't quite have the power to do that well.

View attachment 430105

This spare tire bag is made from factory twill soft top fabric, which is much thicker than ordinary soft top fabric. The Janome would have had trouble with the multiple layers at the seams.

View attachment 430106

Similarly, sewing complicated bags from heavy canvas and leather can be hard for a standard machine to pull through, which is where a walking foot comes in handy.

View attachment 430107

View attachment 430108

View attachment 430109

My recommendation: buy a machine like the Janome to start - it'll do most of the projects you want to do and it's very affordable. It's a great first machine and after you get experience and test the limits of that machine and decide to go further you can buy a used industrial machine or something like my Sailrite. (BTW my Sailrite machine was paid for by royalties from a design a company licensed from me, so maybe you'll be able to fund some of your your sewing that way ).

Also I'll second the recommendation from @Fulton_Hogan - get to know the Sailrite web site, they have lots of instruction videos for both beginners and more advanced subjects (like how to sew windows into canvas). They also have many supplies you'll want, like the Seamstick basting tape he mentioned.

Finally I'll say that I'm happy to offer any advice and guidance you might need as you get into sewing. I've done many Jeep-related projects, many of which have become commercial products, so if my experience can help you just ask.

Thanks so much for taking the time to respond, Jeff. Great information, especially on the machines. I’ve spent some time on the Sailrite site, and was actually considering their Ultrafeed LS - I tend to jump in with both feet on projects like this - but having some guidance on what to look for in machines on the used market is a lot of help.

I’ve always enjoyed following your designs. I really appreciate the feedback, and the offer on guidance going forward.