Tips in preparation to install SYE?
- Thread starter jazngab
- Start date
Do you guys think all transfer case chains are the same? Amazon has this one for much cheaper than the other ones asking $80-90.
Motive Gear MG10-027 Transfer Case Drive Train https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBRKTWA/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Also what size socket is needed to remove the front drive shaft yoke from the transfer case?
Motive Gear MG10-027 Transfer Case Drive Train https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBRKTWA/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Also what size socket is needed to remove the front drive shaft yoke from the transfer case?
Also is there a way to tell if my current chain needs to be replaced or if it’s still good? Is the chain only active when the Jeep is placed in 4Lo or 4Hi? Or is it constantly moving whenever the Jeep is driving?
It's only "active" in 4hi/lo but.. If I understand how it works correctly, it's basically coasting but with the front axle is spinning while you drive so I would assume that chain is definitly moving, just not under a load. But if someone know's better they might step in to explain better.
Forgot to quote you @jazngab
Forgot to quote you @jazngab
I rebuilt my whole case when I did mine and also did some upgrades. My old filter looked ok and probably didn't need to be replaced but I had a new one from the kit, so it went in. There is a little o-ring inside the pump housing where the feeder tube enters it (coming from the filter/pick-up). Dunno how many miles you've got, but it wouldn't be bad to replace the front output bearing if you're in there and have the means.
Also maybe front output seal as well.
Also, there is another seal in the front bearing retainer housing that I would swap out.
You've probably assembled it already, but I didn't grease anything when I put it back together. The pump should pick up the oil and distribute it where it needs to go. After it was installed, and I refilled it, I had the transmission in neutral and spun the rear yoke by hand as fast as I could, hoping it would throw some up where it needs to go. I would just drive really slow at first, like not out of 1st gear for a little when you take it out for the first time.Is engine assembly lube necessary when placing the sprockets on the new shaft? Basically I don’t have any and I would have to run out and get some....for the fourth time today
Just listen and feel for anything amiss. My new drive shafts come on Thursday so I will know if this advice is any good haha.
if anyone else has any other experience I'd be interested as well.
I played it safe and used assembly lube. But now I’m at the point where I’m reassembling the rear tail housing. But it looks like the housing and bearings and oil seal all came separate instead of already preinstalled as one piece. How do I press those bearings and seal in? Is a special press needed? It’s a tight fit and I don’t want to force it in if there’s a special way of doing it.
Also my advance adapters kit came with this part and I’m not sure what it is or what it’s for. Instructions weren’t great and the instructional video was just ok.
That part is a pusher for the bearing. It should allow you to install the bearing without applying pressure to the inner race of the bearing. If you're careful, you could use a large C clamp with a bridge against the outside of the housing (yoke side). Another way - you could brace the outer part of the T-case housing against a jaw of a vise and use a drift/pusher in conjunction with that piece that they supplied you to seat the bearing. Take care as to make sure everything is square (90*) so when force is applied, so it's a straight push. And that your pusher bar extends beyond the face of the tail housing so as to fully seat the bearing before the other vise jaw contacts your cast piece. And forgive me if I state the obvious at any point.
All of this is assuming that bearing is to be installed from the inside. Looking more at you pictures I can't quite tell which side its intended to be installed into. The relief/cavity just beyond the bore for the speedo gear makes me think it should be installed from the inside as that's probably a port for oil to flow through the bearing. Is that bearing retained using a snap ring or does it seat against a shoulder on the new shaft? Haha, now I can't remember how mine went. Mine was a super short kit so that's the only experience I have. The oil seal should more than likely install from the outer (yoke) side. Press that by hand firmly and as squarely as you can, then tight lightly in circles around the outer race of the seal until its seated.
If they supplied a thrust bearing (and the bearing is indeed installed from the inside of the housing), the races should be thicker on opposing sides outer/inner respectively. If that's the case, I believe the thicker outer race should be installed into the housing face in, leaving the thicker inner race facing into or towards the inside of the transfer case.
Hope this is helpful.
So I got it all put back together now. Bearing was pressed in using that pusher block and a BFH. Then I pressed the seal on the other side using the same pusher block. Yes I put a snap ring to hold the bearing in place. I’m letting the gasket cure til tomorrow night then I’ll throw it back in the Jeep. Thanks for all your help.
Also I don’t believe I noticed any thickness differences with the bearing. And the instructions didn’t say anything about installing it a certain direction facing up or down. Hopefully I put it all back together fine lol
It's much more likely it's a normal open face bearing. I just threw that in there on the off chance it wasn't. My kit was missing that bearing and the only bearing I could source locally was a thrust bearing. Just wanted to cover my bases lol.
Edit: I'm mis-remembering. I'm thinking the front output yoke bearing. You should be just fine
I replaced everything when I rebuilt mine & replaced nothing extra when I did my JB super short later.
Before you put it back in just make sure that everything spins fine and run the selector through 2h 4h n 4l a few times and it all feels good.
Looks like it spins fine. I was trying to run through the gears but it was a bit tough. I was trying to use the black short lever piece from the cable shifter. Got it to shift once. I don’t think I have enough leverage. Is there a easier way to test this? Before I closed it up I did make sure everything was back in place.
Edit: also is there a way to know which gear I’m in? I I can’t tell if its in 2hi 4Hi N 4Lo.
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