Tire carrier recommendations / advice needed

[Karl]

Thanks for that. I’m not at the point I want to weld anything. I’ll try the blowtorch and see what happens

 

[Karl]

I think I’ll fit the torx and hammer it in to make the groves deeper first actually. Maybe a little less likely to strip it

 

[jjvw]

+1 torches and paint just don't play well together.

Which of these got torched?

 

[jbar80]

I think I’ll fit the torx and hammer it in to make the groves deeper first actually. Maybe a little less likely to strip it

When you put the impact on it, give it a short burst to the right (tighter) before you try to back it out. It will help break it loose.

Also you might want to get a couple of extra torx heads in case you break one so you don’t have to go back to the store.

 

[jjvw]

Everyone who is afraid to heat these bolts to install an Exogate should remember that the the factory bolts and hinges are not reused.

Not that it matters either way, because you aren't burning anything to soften the thread lock.

 

[707kevin]

Which of these got torched?

I think when the word torch is used, people imagine a cutting torch / oxyacetylene. If threadlock only needs a few hundred degrees to soften, then a heatgun would do the job easily, or a small propane canister torch. Or heck, even a small butane soldering torch.

Most of my torx experience was with a YJ, and I think most of them had been removed at one point. So the impact driver was my go-to to break the rust free.

 

[jjvw]

I think when the word torch is used, people imagine a cutting torch / oxyacetylene. If threadlock only needs a few hundred degrees to soften, then a heatgun would do the job easily, or a small propane canister torch. Or heck, even a small butane soldering torch.

Most of my torx experience was with a YJ, and I think most of them had been removed at one point. So the impact driver was my go-to to break the rust free.

Common sense suggests that oxyacetylene for this job is a little excessive.

Regarding my pic above. Every one of those bolts was touched with MAPP gas and was easily removed. One of those bolts is starting to strip because it was the first and only one that I didn't try to remove with heat first.

 

[jazngab]

Are the removal of the torx bits the “hardest” part about the installation process?

 

[jjvw]

Are the removal of the torx bits the “hardest” part about the installation process?

If the nut plate inside the tub falls away from the lower hinge, find a helper.

 

[Karl]

So in the end 2 torx ended up stripped. I now have a shitty opinion of torx screws. I’m not sure how to go about getting these two torx screws out. Really don’t want to butcher this whole thing. At this point I may just bring it in and pay to have it done. Just can’t be fucked with the frustration of what should be a simple task.

The plate on the inside of the tub would just the hit the ground would it not?

 

[Karl]

When you put the impact on it, give it a short burst to the right (tighter) before you try to back it out. It will help break it loose.

Also you might want to get a couple of extra torx heads in case you break one so you don’t have to go back to the store.

I did it with a ratchet and torx attachment. Got them all except 2 I stripped. Pain in the ass these torx screws are.

 

[Karl]

This is what I’m dealing with x2

 

[jjvw]

Did you use heat?

 

[Karl]

Hey all.

so I was able to torch and crack all but two. For the two that stripped, I went and bought some cobalt drill bits (not titanium)that were just slightly bigger than the width of the bolt. I drilled into the end until the head fell off. I then took the hinges off and grabbed the bit of bolt sticking out, now without a head, and torched then used vice grips and turned them out.
The one into the tailgate, I twisted out, the one into the tub, I reached up underneath and grabbed the bracket took it out then manually twisted it out.

It then took all day to paint where the hinges came off and mount the moryde tire mount.
I still need to make some bumps for the tire to go against and slightly adjust the gate with the weight of the tire.
THEN I need to wire in the third brake light and the new light for the license plate mount inside the spare.

 

[Karl]

I have a circular third brake light for inside the spare BUT on mine you can’t actually see the circle light, just the red glow from inside the tire which I prefer.
I will attach two photos of what I need to hook up. I have no idea where to begin with the wiring.
I tried to just take the old third brake light wires and directly attach them to the new circular brake light but didn’t work.

ideas?
cheers