TJ's TJ
- Thread starter TJ's-TJ
- Start date
Also made 1" bump stop cup extensions for the front (the axle already has 2" of extensions). We decided to start at 3" until the body is back on and we can confirm what we really need.
And the last little bit of fabrication before suspension assembly onto the frame was these 3/16" thick front lower control arm eccentric eliminator plates:
That's a GREAT deal. I never find those...and when I do, they are FULL of michigan rust
We set the axles to approximate ride height relative to the frame (if anyone thinks these numbers are way off, please let me know):
12" Rear (Compressed Spring Length)
16" Front (Compressed Spring Length)
And added the front and rear track bars, sway bars and steering links:
Here is a parts breakdown if interested:
12" Rear (Compressed Spring Length)
16" Front (Compressed Spring Length)
And added the front and rear track bars, sway bars and steering links:
Here is a parts breakdown if interested:
The next patient is in the operating room for a TeraFlex SS SYE, clean and paint, and fluid changes (trans and transfer case):
Not sure if there is a better way to do this, but the outer dust shield and seal were destroyed during removal. Ended up using an air chisel to get that shield off, gentler methods wouldn't budge it.
Everything inside was clean:
The new SS SYE shaft (TeraFlex):
Buttoned back up and painted with silver engine enamel:
The AX-15 was filled with 3.3Q of Mobile 1 10W-30 and the Transfer case with 1.1Q of Mobile 1 synthetic ATF.
Not sure if there is a better way to do this, but the outer dust shield and seal were destroyed during removal. Ended up using an air chisel to get that shield off, gentler methods wouldn't budge it.
Everything inside was clean:
The new SS SYE shaft (TeraFlex):
Buttoned back up and painted with silver engine enamel:
The AX-15 was filled with 3.3Q of Mobile 1 10W-30 and the Transfer case with 1.1Q of Mobile 1 synthetic ATF.
Last edited:
The other end will be getting a new clutch kit from LUK:
I chose not to use the plastic bodied TOB that comes with the LUK kit. Many have used it with success, some have had issues... Seems safer to me to go with a new Timken 614093 ($35) that is almost identical to the one that was in there from the factory. Here is the Timken next to the plastic bodied LUK:
A little moly grease on all wear surfaces:
I chose not to use the plastic bodied TOB that comes with the LUK kit. Many have used it with success, some have had issues... Seems safer to me to go with a new Timken 614093 ($35) that is almost identical to the one that was in there from the factory. Here is the Timken next to the plastic bodied LUK:
A little moly grease on all wear surfaces:
What a difference having the right tool makes. Got the Loaner pilot bearing puller from autozone and popped the pilot bearing right out with the slide hammer. Tried the grease trick and it just wouldn't pop.
Machined up this tool to put the new one in nice and square:
Job Done:
Also got the flywheel cleaned up with some 180 grit sand paper on the DA:
Machined up this tool to put the new one in nice and square:
Job Done:
Also got the flywheel cleaned up with some 180 grit sand paper on the DA:
Engine back onto the lift:
Engine Plate and Flywheel on, bolt in with blue loc-tite, torqued to 104 ft-lbs:
Clutch and pressure plate on, PP bolts on with blue loc-tite and torqued to 38 ft-lbs:
Engine was leveled and the trans was slid into it:
Engine & Trans lifted in together, didn't get a pic of it, but a ratchet strap down to the transfer case was used to level it:
With the suspension at approximate ride height, we were able to measure for drive shafts:
Rear: 19.5"
Front: 40.375"
Engine Plate and Flywheel on, bolt in with blue loc-tite, torqued to 104 ft-lbs:
Clutch and pressure plate on, PP bolts on with blue loc-tite and torqued to 38 ft-lbs:
Engine was leveled and the trans was slid into it:
Engine & Trans lifted in together, didn't get a pic of it, but a ratchet strap down to the transfer case was used to level it:
With the suspension at approximate ride height, we were able to measure for drive shafts:
Rear: 19.5"
Front: 40.375"
Delivery from Tom Wood:
The Christmas wrapping paper was a nice touch:
We went with Spicer sealed u-joints in the XB configuration.
Rear shaft measured 19.5":
Front Shaft measured 40 3/8":
The Christmas wrapping paper was a nice touch:
We went with Spicer sealed u-joints in the XB configuration.
Rear shaft measured 19.5":
Front Shaft measured 40 3/8":
Are you sure you're restoring a Wrangler, because it looks like you're building a brand new one!
Color me impressed!
Did you do anything to that engine while it was out (i.e. stroker)?
Color me impressed!
Did you do anything to that engine while it was out (i.e. stroker)?
In general, I have a rule of not buying anything until you need it as things tend to change as we all well know, but my son really wanted this EAG bumper, so here it is:
Very well packed:
We were toying with building one, but for $200, it just isn't worth it. This one is built pretty well. Advertised at 3/16" thick, but measured at .160" (assume 4mm).
Very well packed:
We were toying with building one, but for $200, it just isn't worth it. This one is built pretty well. Advertised at 3/16" thick, but measured at .160" (assume 4mm).
Thanks,
The motor only had 83K miles and it looked really clean inside so we didn't touch the internals...
Oh yeah, with 83k miles that thing is barely broken in!
Either way, the build looks awesome so far.
We have been working on the exhaust for the last few weeks. The goal of this exhaust system is to be reasonably inexpensive and corrosion proof. So all 300 series Stainless, no 400 series that will rust in new England.
Starting with the muffler build. This is my own design based loosly on a glass pack, but using stainless steel wool instead of glass packing that will blow out over time. We have a pair of these on our 65 mustang fastback and they sound incredible, not sure it will be great on the Jeep, if not, we will build something else:
Roll up some perforated sheet 1/8" holes on 3/16" centers:
Poke the ends through some stainless discs (cut out with hole saws):
Weld the little tabs without melting them (318 wire in the MIG with Tri-mix gas):
Wrap the core in Stainless Steel wool:
Stuff it into a 4" tube:
~1.5" long chamber is left at each end:
Then the end caps and V-band flanges are put on:
Starting with the muffler build. This is my own design based loosly on a glass pack, but using stainless steel wool instead of glass packing that will blow out over time. We have a pair of these on our 65 mustang fastback and they sound incredible, not sure it will be great on the Jeep, if not, we will build something else:
Roll up some perforated sheet 1/8" holes on 3/16" centers:
Poke the ends through some stainless discs (cut out with hole saws):
Weld the little tabs without melting them (318 wire in the MIG with Tri-mix gas):
Wrap the core in Stainless Steel wool:
Stuff it into a 4" tube:
~1.5" long chamber is left at each end:
Then the end caps and V-band flanges are put on:
Exhaust system will follow the stock path, but again all 304 Stainless, entire exhaust will be 2.5" to keep it simple. Entire system was pieced together from (3) cut up 180 degree bends and (1) 48" piece of straight tubing. Starting at the manifold flange:
The converter is from Eastern Catalytic, it is one of the only ones that I could find that is made from 304 vs. 400 series stainless steel. But for some reason, they welded 400 series tubes onto the ends of it. We cut them off and welded new directly to the shell. This is a ceramic converter and they assured me that it is OBDII compliant, hopefully it is...
V-Band flange for the muffler:
Tacked together front pipe:
Plasma cutter for O2 bung hole, finished up with the die grinder:
Front pipe with the muffler on:
For the hanger at the transfer case we machined down some 3/4" stainless rod and added upper and lower support plates:
The converter is from Eastern Catalytic, it is one of the only ones that I could find that is made from 304 vs. 400 series stainless steel. But for some reason, they welded 400 series tubes onto the ends of it. We cut them off and welded new directly to the shell. This is a ceramic converter and they assured me that it is OBDII compliant, hopefully it is...
V-Band flange for the muffler:
Tacked together front pipe:
Plasma cutter for O2 bung hole, finished up with the die grinder:
Front pipe with the muffler on:
For the hanger at the transfer case we machined down some 3/4" stainless rod and added upper and lower support plates:
Last edited:
As you all know, the tail pipe follows a torturous path under the track bar, and between the fuel tank skid and shock. We think we found a path that clears in all axle positions:
Welded and ground:
Just need to add a rod to pick up the rear hanger and figure out where and how to trim the tail pipe, it is a bit long right now, but we may wait until we have a rear bumper to trim it.
Welded and ground:
Just need to add a rod to pick up the rear hanger and figure out where and how to trim the tail pipe, it is a bit long right now, but we may wait until we have a rear bumper to trim it.
Similar threads
