TJ's TJ

And we got the fuel tank back in:
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We are not changing the pump, hopefully we don't regret that decision
 
And finally, the rear shocks and springs:
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3.25" of bump stop extension was required to keep the shock from bottoming. At full shock extension (shown), we still have a little spring compression, so that is good.

Springs are Currie CE-9130H which are supposed to be 4" set with the medium rear spring and the shocks are Rancho 5000x RS55255/RS55256 set. These shocks are a bit long in my opinion for a 4" lift.
 
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Wow...4" of lift and 3 inches of BS extension? That is a bummer. Too bad you already painted the shocks. Seems like you're leaving a lot of up travel on the table. Love how this rebuild / restoration is coming together though. Looks great!
 
Wow...4" of lift and 3 inches of BS extension? That is a bummer. Too bad you already painted the shocks. Seems like you're leaving a lot of up travel on the table. Love how this rebuild / restoration is coming together though. Looks great!

A little disappointing, as I thought this was a fairly proven combo. I'm guessing there are a lot of people running around with these shocks that haven't check full compression.

Not the end of the world for us as we still don't know for sure how much or what kind of off roading we will do. For now the shocks are protected, we gained 1" of up travel over stock, and the body should be protected as well (can't check tire to body clearance until we have the body back on) so conservative bumpstops are OK.

Another option would be to raise the upper mounts, not sure that I want to go down that road at this point.
 
A little disappointing, as I thought this was a fairly proven combo. I'm guessing there are a lot of people running around with these shocks that haven't check full compression.

Not the end of the world for us as we still don't know for sure how much or what kind of off roading we will do. For now the shocks are protected, we gained 1" of up travel over stock, and the body should be protected as well (can't check tire to body clearance until we have the body back on) so conservative bumpstops are OK.

Another option would be to raise the upper mounts, not sure that I want to go down that road at this point.
I think you can get an upper mount that goes above the crossmember and gain around an inch...Teraflex maybe? Might be an easy solution to gain back an inch of uptravel. Not going to help up front though.
 
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The original stainless steel hard fuel line was fine, the return line was, however, a crusty mess, so we made a new one from some 3/16" NiCu brake line. We got all the hard brake lines with our new frame and the are in great shape, so we plan to re-use those as well.

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Tub is good, only rust is on the middle driver's side body mount for some reason, easy fix... rest of it is good. Needs a passenger front fender.

Plan is silver Raptor-liner inside and out...
 
Upholstery next. We didn't want covers, so we ordered a real replacement upholstery kit from autointeriorkits on ebay, kit was $510 shipped for front and rear seats in vinyl. We wanted vinyl for the durability. The vinyl is padded and has a satin finish. Covers seem really well made, very happy with them.

Rear seat (in funky factory cloth):
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Foam is in good shape:
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We cleaned up the frames:
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Covers appear to be pretty close duplicates to the originals, no hog rings required for the rear seat.

Fronts next, we started with the easy one...
 
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Upholstery next. We didn't want covers, so we ordered a real replacement upholstery kit from autointeriorkits on ebay, kit was $510 shipped for front and rear seats in vinyl. We wanted vinyl for the durability. The vinyl is padded and has a satin finish. Covers seem really well made, very happy with them.

Rear seat (in funky factory cloth):
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Foam is in good shape:
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We cleaned up the frames:
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View attachment 81906

Covers appear to be pretty close duplicates to the originals, no hog rings required for the rear seat.

Fronts next, we started with the easy one...

Looks great. Can't wait to see the fronts. :D
 
Front seats next:

The old upholstery was pretty much cut off to see what was going on. The top and bottom of the seat need to be separated to install the new covers.

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The seat back has Velcro strips bonded to the foam, the bottom has traditional listing wires and hog rings:
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Once the covers were removed, we could see how to separate the top and bottom:
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The bottom frame was unpainted from the factory and had lots of surface rust. So we took the foam off and wire brushed it and gave it a quick coat of satin black.

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Attention has turned to the tub. We got the dash, heater box and roll bars out this weekend. Why Jeep would make (2) out of (18) roll bar bolts tamper proof torx is beyond me...

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windshield hinges came off no problem. I think we have 3 tailgate hinge screws stripped out and one lower door hinge screw... freakin torx flat heads!

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