TJ's TJ

All cleaned up re-painted:
1542112680882.png
 
And the last little bit of fabrication before suspension assembly onto the frame was these 3/16" thick front lower control arm eccentric eliminator plates:

1542112938421.png

1542112971216.png
 
Came across a craigslist part out and caught a glimpse of a Currie AntiRock in one of the pics. Picked it up used with a rear sway bar with extended links, a set of rear bump stops and isolators with 3" extensions, and a set of perfect Sahara flares, all for $300.

View attachment 63124
That's a GREAT deal. I never find those...and when I do, they are FULL of michigan rust
 
We set the axles to approximate ride height relative to the frame (if anyone thinks these numbers are way off, please let me know):
12" Rear (Compressed Spring Length)
16" Front (Compressed Spring Length)

And added the front and rear track bars, sway bars and steering links:
1543236236210.png

1543236276669.png


Here is a parts breakdown if interested:
1543237549190.png


1543237572100.png
 
The next patient is in the operating room for a TeraFlex SS SYE, clean and paint, and fluid changes (trans and transfer case):
1543839953918.png


Not sure if there is a better way to do this, but the outer dust shield and seal were destroyed during removal. Ended up using an air chisel to get that shield off, gentler methods wouldn't budge it.
1543840137134.png

Everything inside was clean:
1543840191121.png

The new SS SYE shaft (TeraFlex):
1543840258406.png

Buttoned back up and painted with silver engine enamel:
1543840351044.png

The AX-15 was filled with 3.3Q of Mobile 1 10W-30 and the Transfer case with 1.1Q of Mobile 1 synthetic ATF.
 
Last edited:
The other end will be getting a new clutch kit from LUK:
1543841791147.png

I chose not to use the plastic bodied TOB that comes with the LUK kit. Many have used it with success, some have had issues... Seems safer to me to go with a new Timken 614093 ($35) that is almost identical to the one that was in there from the factory. Here is the Timken next to the plastic bodied LUK:
1543841957878.png

1543842026658.png

A little moly grease on all wear surfaces:
1543842078026.png
 
What a difference having the right tool makes. Got the Loaner pilot bearing puller from autozone and popped the pilot bearing right out with the slide hammer. Tried the grease trick and it just wouldn't pop.
1544617099746.png


Machined up this tool to put the new one in nice and square:
1544617125637.png


Job Done:
1544617156946.png


Also got the flywheel cleaned up with some 180 grit sand paper on the DA:
1544617051070.png
 
Engine back onto the lift:
1545049568471.png


Engine Plate and Flywheel on, bolt in with blue loc-tite, torqued to 104 ft-lbs:
1545049666744.png


Clutch and pressure plate on, PP bolts on with blue loc-tite and torqued to 38 ft-lbs:
1545049735690.png


Engine was leveled and the trans was slid into it:
1545049826931.png


Engine & Trans lifted in together, didn't get a pic of it, but a ratchet strap down to the transfer case was used to level it:
1545049973514.png

1545050024980.png


With the suspension at approximate ride height, we were able to measure for drive shafts:

Rear: 19.5"
Front: 40.375"
 
Delivery from Tom Wood:
1546448606094.png


The Christmas wrapping paper was a nice touch:
1546448661526.png


We went with Spicer sealed u-joints in the XB configuration.

Rear shaft measured 19.5":
1546448782174.png


Front Shaft measured 40 3/8":
1546448857887.png
 
Are you sure you're restoring a Wrangler, because it looks like you're building a brand new one!

Color me impressed!

Did you do anything to that engine while it was out (i.e. stroker)?
 
  • Like
Reactions: bedhed and matkal
We also got the Intake and exhaust manifolds attached to the block with a new Fel-Pro gasket:
1546450454825.png

1546449509803.png
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: bedhed
In general, I have a rule of not buying anything until you need it as things tend to change as we all well know, but my son really wanted this EAG bumper, so here it is:
1546449679176.png

Very well packed:
1546449712030.png

1546449742709.png


We were toying with building one, but for $200, it just isn't worth it. This one is built pretty well. Advertised at 3/16" thick, but measured at .160" (assume 4mm).

1546449876840.png
 
Are you sure you're restoring a Wrangler, because it looks like you're building a brand new one!

Color me impressed!

Did you do anything to that engine while it was out (i.e. stroker)?

Thanks,

The motor only had 83K miles and it looked really clean inside so we didn't touch the internals...
 
Thanks,

The motor only had 83K miles and it looked really clean inside so we didn't touch the internals...

Oh yeah, with 83k miles that thing is barely broken in!

Either way, the build looks awesome so far.
 
We have been working on the exhaust for the last few weeks. The goal of this exhaust system is to be reasonably inexpensive and corrosion proof. So all 300 series Stainless, no 400 series that will rust in new England.

Starting with the muffler build. This is my own design based loosly on a glass pack, but using stainless steel wool instead of glass packing that will blow out over time. We have a pair of these on our 65 mustang fastback and they sound incredible, not sure it will be great on the Jeep, if not, we will build something else:

Roll up some perforated sheet 1/8" holes on 3/16" centers:
1547641329799.png


Poke the ends through some stainless discs (cut out with hole saws):
1547641400972.png


Weld the little tabs without melting them (318 wire in the MIG with Tri-mix gas):
1547641483511.png


Wrap the core in Stainless Steel wool:
1547641674162.png


Stuff it into a 4" tube:
1547641719419.png

1547641747467.png


~1.5" long chamber is left at each end:
1547641816646.png


Then the end caps and V-band flanges are put on:
1547641876317.png
 
Exhaust system will follow the stock path, but again all 304 Stainless, entire exhaust will be 2.5" to keep it simple. Entire system was pieced together from (3) cut up 180 degree bends and (1) 48" piece of straight tubing. Starting at the manifold flange:
1547642073188.png

1547642102325.png

1547642134152.png


The converter is from Eastern Catalytic, it is one of the only ones that I could find that is made from 304 vs. 400 series stainless steel. But for some reason, they welded 400 series tubes onto the ends of it. We cut them off and welded new directly to the shell. This is a ceramic converter and they assured me that it is OBDII compliant, hopefully it is...
1547642177525.png


V-Band flange for the muffler:
1547642426139.png


Tacked together front pipe:
1547642496498.png



Plasma cutter for O2 bung hole, finished up with the die grinder:
1547642550673.png

1547642567144.png


Front pipe with the muffler on:
1547642612570.png


For the hanger at the transfer case we machined down some 3/4" stainless rod and added upper and lower support plates:
1547642671022.png

1547642712761.png

1547642737144.png
 
Last edited:
As you all know, the tail pipe follows a torturous path under the track bar, and between the fuel tank skid and shock. We think we found a path that clears in all axle positions:
1547642886618.png

1547642915244.png


Welded and ground:
1547643084031.png

1547643257677.png

1547643290162.png


Just need to add a rod to pick up the rear hanger and figure out where and how to trim the tail pipe, it is a bit long right now, but we may wait until we have a rear bumper to trim it.