Toughness personified

Drill a couple holes and pop rivet the caps in.
I've been testing that. I used some of my expensive rivets on a few and ordered in some cheaper ones to see how they will do. If I can get the load spread out over a larger area, it seems like it will work other than the additional time it takes.
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I do have to wonder if you didn't recognize the Milwaukee rivet gun in the other pics though. ;)
 
A 2" thick disc of 6lb polyethylene foam with a 1" thick donut of lighter 2.2lb foam hotglued to the thick disc to center the rod within the tube.

https://www.foambymail.com/PE6-/polyethylene-foam-sheets-6lb-white.html
https://www.foambymail.com/PE2-_1/polyethylene-foam-sheets-2-2lb.html
This would spread the load across the full face of the end cap, while providing shock absorption.

This is how we might have solved this packaging problem in the old life. But we weren't doing production work and cost wasn't as much of a concern.
 
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All arguments aside, when I used to have my restoration shop we would get stuff in tubes all the time. The ones that seemed to arrive in the best shape had end caps like your new tubes, but they had 2 or 3 heavy gauge staples through the tube into the flange on the cap. I think that would provide enough additional resistance to movement of the cap.
I'm on the hunt and have been for that stapler. There are several versions of anvil staplers out there but they don't tell me what they will punch a staple through.

This is roughly what I'm looking for.

https://www.nailgundepot.com/senco-dfpxp-20-gauge-clinch-stapler-details.html
As far as the sharp ends of the tie rod tearing the metal caps...perhaps cutting the tops off of the PBR cans, filling the cans with that expandable foam insulation and then jamming a can on the end of each tie rod before putting it in the tube would spread the force enough to prevent tearing.
Oddly or perhaps not if you know me, we do not have any beer cans in aluminum here, nor do we have any other aluminum beverage cans to cut up. I may be able to find one or two cans of root beer long expired to use but that doesn't solve my problem long term.
 
I have to wonder if using a tube is maybe overly complex? You're shipping a piece of steel, specially treated to be tough as hell. Maybe just wrap it in that blown plastic/foam packing material, then some brown paper, tape it up good and slap a label on it? Its not expedient, but it doesn't really sound like the method you're using is either.
 
A 2" thick disc of 6lb polyethylene foam with a 1" thick donut of lighter 2.2lb foam hotglued to the thick disc to center the rod within the tube.

https://www.foambymail.com/PE6-/polyethylene-foam-sheets-6lb-white.html
https://www.foambymail.com/PE2-_1/polyethylene-foam-sheets-2-2lb.html
This would spread the load across the full face of the end cap, while providing shock absorption.

This is how we might have solved this packaging problem in the old life. But we weren't doing production work and cost wasn't as much of a concern.
I use foam now, it is a pain in the ass but doable. The bigger issue is cutting out the foam circles which is time consuming. I sped it up by grinding all the teeth off of a hole saw and spinning that as a cutter in the drill press. It worked well but was pretty slow.
 
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I have to wonder if using a tube is maybe overly complex? You're shipping a piece of steel, specially treated to be tough as hell. Maybe just wrap it in that blown plastic/foam packing material, then some brown paper, tape it up good and slap a label on it? Its not expedient, but it doesn't really sound like the method you're using is either.
The first bumper I ever bought just had a shipping label stuck to it. No packaging whatsoever. (This isn't a suggestion, btw 🤣)
 
I have to wonder if using a tube is maybe overly complex? You're shipping a piece of steel, specially treated to be tough as hell. Maybe just wrap it in that blown plastic/foam packing material, then some brown paper, tape it up good and slap a label on it? Its not expedient, but it doesn't really sound like the method you're using is either.
It may be but at this point, the small diameter of the rod makes a normal shipping label which we are already set up to print too large.

If I can get the wood end closure, this all gets very simple and fast. I have or can get the 1/4" crown stapler to shoot the end caps in. That would take seconds. Drop a wad of butcher paper in each end, slide the tubes together, staple them to prevent them from sliding apart and I'm done. I go from 20 minutes per package down to 3-4.

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I’ve had several 45 pound barbells delivered, which are similar to this.

Patryk from Bridge Built came up with a good solution to the same problem that you are having, although it may not be cost effective (I don’t know anything about shipping). I hope this link works for you Blaine.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CYumsGppzoa/?utm_medium=copy_link
I'm already doing that. I bought high density foam pool noodles and sliced them up 2" thick. Those go around each end with a foam disc in the bottom of each tube.
 
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It may be but at this point, the small diameter of the rod makes a normal shipping label which we are already set up to print too large.

If I can get the wood end closure, this all gets very simple and fast. I have or can get the 1/4" crown stapler to shoot the end caps in. That would take seconds. Drop a wad of butcher paper in each end, slide the tubes together, staple them to prevent them from sliding apart and I'm done. I go from 20 minutes per package down to 3-4.

View attachment 312439
That's the ticket.
 
I have to wonder if using a tube is maybe overly complex? You're shipping a piece of steel, specially treated to be tough as hell. Maybe just wrap it in that blown plastic/foam packing material, then some brown paper, tape it up good and slap a label on it? Its not expedient, but it doesn't really sound like the method you're using is either.
Forgot that I'm not the least bit worried about hurting the tie rod. I'm just trying to keep it in the package until it arrives at its destination.
 
we get tubes of all kinds of materials shipped in . some have staples, most just use cheap ass sheet metal screws to hold the metal caps in.
i might opt for a solid tube instead of telescoping, the length is fixed, yes?
 
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we get tubes of all kinds of materials shipped in . some have staples, most just use cheap ass sheet metal screws to hold the metal caps in.
If I can determine whether the stapler would work, that is on the top of the list simply due to speed. My hesitation is we have an air power carton closing stapler to shoot down the flaps on the brake kit boxes. I shot the tubes with it on the overlap section to see if it would work for that and the staple didn't even penetrate the cardboard, just bounced off the surface and shot the gun up off of the tube. I then leaned into it hard and all it did was wad the staple up in the plunger chute and jam the gun.
 
If I can determine whether the stapler would work, that is on the top of the list simply due to speed. My hesitation is we have an air power carton closing stapler to shoot down the flaps on the brake kit boxes. I shot the tubes with it on the overlap section to see if it would work for that and the staple didn't even penetrate the cardboard, just bounced off the surface and shot the gun up off of the tube. I then leaned into it hard and all it did was wad the staple up in the plunger chute and jam the gun.
we used a roofing staple gun and often cut wood plugs if we couldn't salvage a metal 1.
woods expensive and time consuming but holds great, but 4-5 sheet metal screws zip in to those metal plugs pretty quick. i'd see deformed caps all the time but rarely did they break out.

little bastards will tear your fingers up if your not expecting them.
 
It would take at least 3 dowels since the tie rod is 1 1/4" in diameter, x 2 tubes, = you need to show me how to do that fast.

The PVC will shatter if they drop it.

It looks like all the TR’s have done well, just figure a way to pack the chapstick better.
 
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i might opt for a solid tube instead of telescoping, the length is fixed, yes?
Solid would be best and I'll switch to that when I find out the end closure that works best. For now the reason they telescope is so I can put high density foam in the ends and then compress that by sliding the two tubes together by putting one against a wall and leaning on it while I staple or tape them together. With a fixed length, that gets harder but if I can get the wood end caps made it gets very easy. I'll figure out the tube length that works and cut longer ones down to work.
 
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we used a roofing staple gun
That is a crown stapler. ;) I'm familiar and we have all manner of them ranging from 1/4" all the way up to 1". That part is easy if I can get the plugs made.
and often cut wood plugs if we couldn't salvage a metal 1.
woods expensive and time consuming but holds great, but 4-5 sheet metal screws zip in to those metal plugs pretty quick. i'd see deformed caps all the time but rarely did they break out.

little bastards will tear your fingers up if your not expecting them.
Temporarily, I may have to make some 1/2" thick plywood ends to drop in on top of the metal caps. That will spread the load out to the rim and slow down the deformation some.