Transmission flush gone wrong

[jmatx]

Hello folks.

I recently did a full transmission flush, along with a new filter and gasket. I added fluid incrementally until I had the level to the right spot, and then I drove it slowly around my neighborhood to get the fluid worked in. How happy I was after the job was done (or so I thought) and the full 8 or so quarts was added and and my TJ was driving smooth and shifting very nicely.

And then the chaos ensued. After the full amount was added and I thought the job was done, I noticed it had begun to start leaking fluid somewhat rapidly onto the street. I got underneath and what do you know, the atf +4 is pouring out around the gasket.

The gasket was seated correctly, and all bolts tightened down well... however the gasket appears to be unseated in between several bolts and the fluid is leaking out in those areas. (the gasket is centered around all of the bolts but is unseated in between several of the bolts on the sides).

I used a new rubber gasket and a thin layer of gasket sealant on both sides, applied evenly.

Can't figure out why the gasket would come out in between several of the bolts. The bolts were hand tightened with a wrench, and are neither loose or over tightened.

What gives?

(no pics at the moment, may be able to add some tomorrow).

 

[toximus]

Toss the gasket and use Mopar RTV.

 

[onoffroad]

DO not put RTV on a rubber gasket. Make it too slick and it will push out between the bolts. It is designed to be used alone. So either a dry and clean gasket or just rtv.
I have always had good results with ATP gasket installed dry no sealer. As it,s made to swell after the fluid heats up. Thats whats on mine right now and no leaks.

 

[qslim]

DO not put RTV on a rubber gasket. Make it too slick and it will push out between the bolts. It is designed to be used alone. So either a dry and clean gasket or just rtv.
I have always had good results with ATP gasket installed dry no sealer. As it,s made to swell after the fluid heats up. Thats whats on mine right now and no leaks.

Yes, either a gasket or RTV. Pick one.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Do you have a 32rh or 42rle? On the later model one of the bolts (number 5, front driver area) requires rtv or any sealant because it goes up into atf4.

 

[Modoc Guy]

Lubelocker gasket might do the trick.

 

[AndyG]

Silicone on a rubber gasket is a failure waiting to happen. It's like the catastrophe of having 2 oil filter gaskets when one sticks to the housing and a new filter is installed over it. Each gasket prevents the other from working and the point where they meet typically fails.

 

[jmatx]

Silicone on a rubber gasket is a failure waiting to happen. It's like the catastrophe of having 2 oil filter gaskets when one sticks to the housing and a new filter is installed over it. Each gasket prevents the other from working and the point where they meet typically fails.

Thanks for the input. I have always used sealant on paper gaskets. I did not realize that it created such an issue with rubber gaskets.

So now BACK to the transmission for another new gasket!

 

[jmatx]

Do you have a 32rh or 42rle? On the later model one of the bolts (number 5, front driver area) requires rtv or any sealant because it goes up into atf4.

Which bolt is this exactly? I want to make sure I get it so it does not leak.

42RLE here.

 

[lulzpwndyah]

I went with a lubelocker and bought a pan with a drain plug for mine. Works great no leaks whatsoever from my Jeep anywhere.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Which bolt is this exactly? I want to make sure I get it so it does not leak.

42RLE here.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-leaking-and-where-is-it-coming-from.21511/
If you go down to Jerry's post there's a owner's manual diagram.

I'm getting ready to do this job with lubelocker plus mopar rtv on the bolts in that area.

 

[Kid Mechanic]

Clean, dry and straight pan flange. Clean & dry machined surface. Bead of RTV and torque to 15 lb ft.
No more, no less. Use a torque wrench.

 

[jmatx]

Thanks for all the tips, folks.

Just got started back on removing the pan to re-install a fresh gasket.

To add insult to injury, seems the nut on the inside of the chassis (for the transmission skid plate bolt) is just spinning.

Any tips on how to resolve this? (I hope it doesn't involve breaking the head off of the bolt).
There is a small hole several inches back from the bolt I am hoping I can get a wrench on, other than that... I can't imaging how else to solve the issue.

Any advice?

 

[qslim]

Thanks for all the tips, folks.

Just got started back on removing the pan to re-install a fresh gasket.

To add insult to injury, seems the nut on the inside of the chassis (for the transmission skid plate bolt) is just spinning.

Any tips on how to resolve this? (I hope it doesn't involve breaking the head off of the bolt).
There is a small hole several inches back from the bolt I am hoping I can get a wrench on, other than that... I can't imaging how else to solve the issue.

Any advice?

View attachment 233294

That's less than ideal.

Sounds like you spun a nutsert. I just went through a ton of fun myself with those. Cut the head off the bolt, order a new nutsert kit from @mrblaine , hammer out that old nutsert & squeeze in a new one.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...rum-said-i-need-this-stuff-build.45882/page-3
Edit: if you got it loose at all you might try prying down on the skid plate as you loosen the bolt.

 

[jmatx]

That's less than ideal.

Sounds like you spun a nutsert. I just went through a ton of fun myself with those. Cut the head off the bolt, order a new nutsert kit from @mrblaine , hammer out that old nutsert & squeeze in a new one.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...rum-said-i-need-this-stuff-build.45882/page-3
Edit: if you got it loose at all you might try prying down on the skid plate as you loosen the bolt.

I got LUCKY and managed a work around. I simply loosened the other 3 bolts and spun the transmission skid plate around (on the bolt that was spinning) and moved it out of the way in order to get to the pan.

Once finished, I spun the plate back into position and then tightened it back up.

I feel like I just struck some luck. I thought i was going to have to go through the long and tedious process you described above.

Another question. I did put gasket sealant on the end of bolts #4 , 5 and 6. Once i got 6 tightened down, I did see a little on the gasket that seemed to squeeze out in between the gasket and the pan / transmission. It was the only spot I saw that. ( I did not put gasket sealant on the gasket or pan at all).

Will this cause leaking? I am hoping NOT.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

I got LUCKY and managed a work around. I simply loosened the other 3 bolts and spun the transmission skid plate around (on the bolt that was spinning) and moved it out of the way in order to get to the pan.

Once finished, I spun the plate back into position and then tightened it back up.

I feel like I just struck some luck. I thought i was going to have to go through the long and tedious process you described above.

Another question. I did put gasket sealant on the end of bolts #4 , 5 and 6. Once i got 6 tightened down, I did see a little on the gasket that seemed to squeeze out in between the gasket and the pan / transmission. It was the only spot I saw that. ( I did not put gasket sealant on the gasket or pan at all).

Will this cause leaking? I am hoping NOT.

I had to cut both nutserts/bolts out it's not too bad if they are already loosened a bit. That way you can just cut it between the frame and skid, or between skid and bolt head.

A little rtv getting away from the bolt threads shouldn't be a problem, depends on the gasket. If it's a lubelocker it's supposed to go in dry. A paper gasket would probably benefit from a little rtv.

 

[jmatx]

UPDATE:

Finally finished the full transmission flush on my OEM tranny with 148,000 miles. After blowing out a transmission fluid line running into the radiator, I completely emptied the transmission and torque converter. After dealing with a rough shifting transmission for the last year, and after reading many forum posts warning people NOT to do a flush at higher mileage (like mine) I must say I am actually VERY happy the mishap occurred.

Now that all of the fluid has been replaced with fresh ATF+4, along with some transmission conditioner (Lube Guard red and a half bottle of Lucas) the transmission shifts extra smooth and I am beside myself on how great it drives now. I spent the last year dealing with a rocky transmission because of posts I read and advice I got from a local transmission shop on NOT doing a flush at higher mileage. (I was originally going to pay them to flush and/or fix the tranny because I thought it was due for repair due to hard shifting).

WRONG. completely wrong. Not only did a full flush not cause the tranny to lock up or cause problems, it now shifts about as smooth as it should new.

All around, I am stoked about the improvement to the tranny despite the headache it caused blowing out a coolant line.

For anybody that says NOT to flush at high mileage, I say KICK ROCKS.

 

[qslim]

UPDATE:

Finally finished the full transmission flush on my OEM tranny with 148,000 miles. After blowing out a transmission fluid line running into the radiator, I completely emptied the transmission and torque converter. After dealing with a rough shifting transmission for the last year, and after reading many forum posts warning people NOT to do a flush at higher mileage (like mine) I must say I am actually VERY happy the mishap occurred.

Now that all of the fluid has been replaced with fresh ATF+4, along with some transmission conditioner (Lube Guard red and a half bottle of Lucas) the transmission shifts extra smooth and I am beside myself on how great it drives now. I spent the last year dealing with a rocky transmission because of posts I read and advice I got from a local transmission shop on NOT doing a flush at higher mileage. (I was originally going to pay them to flush and/or fix the tranny because I thought it was due for repair due to hard shifting).

WRONG. completely wrong. Not only did a full flush not cause the tranny to lock up or cause problems, it now shifts about as smooth as it should new.

All around, I am stoked about the improvement to the tranny despite the headache it caused blowing out a coolant line.

For anybody that says NOT to flush at high mileage, I say KICK ROCKS.

I think you’re confusing an actual transmission flush vs fluid exchange. Transmission flushes are performed with an external machine that flushes 15-20 quarts of fluid through the tranny while the trans is operating. I personally had a guy demand a transmission flush on an old car which I advised against, but he persisted so we made him sign a waiver. I flushed his trans, it stripped away all the clutch material like I thought it would, and when it was back on the ground it wouldn’t move under its own power. There’s a reason that shops are hesitant to flush old transmissions.

 

[Mrhp]

I think you’re confusing an actual transmission flush vs fluid exchange. Transmission flushes are performed with an external machine that flushes 15-20 quarts of fluid through the tranny while the trans is operating. I personally had a guy demand a transmission flush on an old car which I advised against, but he persisted so we made him sign a waiver. I flushed his trans, it stripped away all the clutch material like I thought it would, and when it was back on the ground it wouldn’t move under its own power. There’s a reason that shops are hesitant to flush old transmissions.

Yup, I give the same recommendation. Drive em in and push em out!

 

[jmatx]

I think you’re confusing an actual transmission flush vs fluid exchange. Transmission flushes are performed with an external machine that flushes 15-20 quarts of fluid through the tranny while the trans is operating. I personally had a guy demand a transmission flush on an old car which I advised against, but he persisted so we made him sign a waiver. I flushed his trans, it stripped away all the clutch material like I thought it would, and when it was back on the ground it wouldn’t move under its own power. There’s a reason that shops are hesitant to flush old transmissions.

Yes. I didn't know there was a distinction. I am not too familiar with transmissions as you can tell.

I can say that 1 transmission shop and 2 lube centers I called would not do more than what they called an "exchange", which would only have replaced 4 of the 10 or so quarts with fresh fluid. (only the fluid in the pan would have been replaced, and they would not replace the gasket or filter which in my mind seemed questionable).

After blowing out my trans coolant line, I lost ALL of the transmission fluid and had to replace it from nearly bone dry. Seems this is what they were advising against, and yet it is running smoother than I could have ever expected.

In the end, their claim that replacing all of the transmission fluid can freeze my transmission seems to be false, and it seems they were simply not wanting to touch an old transmission because it may not have been worth the time and money for them.