Transmission rebuild questions

[TJK]

Well it looks like my transmission needs an overhaul…it started acting up when downshifting from third gear. Brought it to my mechanic and he checked all the usual culprits including adjusting tv cable. Won’t downshift manually either.

It’s going in to a transmission shop for a rebuild.

I have been doing research on here and have found that both Jerry and Mr Blaine have noted that these transmissions can have some tricky parts.I want to make sure that the shop doing the work does it properly.

My questions are: what is the best rebuild kit for this transmission (32RH automatic) my jeep is a 1997. I have seen this one mentioned a few times https://www.oregonperformancetransm...ode=OPTI&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=OPT-A904-RB

Should I make sure the shop uses this kit?

Are there any upgrades that are “essential”? I do not have any mods nor do I off-road heavily. Nothing more than FSR.

Any other issues I should ensure they cover before I fork over more cash than I want to?…

 

[macleanflood]

@hear Order up!

-Mac

 

[hear]

I’ve used that kit before, but I’ve also used kits off eBay, and never had a problem with any of them. I wouldn’t have any problem going with whatever kit the shop wants to use.

I would verify exactly what a rebuild involves though. Often times it’s just the “soft parts” like seals, o-rings, clutches. Ask them about the bushings & bands. Replacing them as necessary is a must, but I’m interested to know if they replace all of them as a rule. Low/reverse band is usually not even in the overhaul kits.

That said, if it won’t shift down, I’m guessing stuck valve or governor? That wouldn’t require a rebuild. So I’d give them the symptoms and ask what they think. They’ll say “it needs a rebuild” because obviously. But I would ask them what they do with the valve body during a rebuild.


As far as upgrades, I know many people like the stage 2 shift kit, but I can’t speak to that. Any 32RH I touch gets the new sonnax manual valve ($18, no mods required). There’s another related valve that requires a little more surgery, but it’s optional at best.

Lastly, you’d be surprised at how easy it is to rebuild these units. IJS.

 

[hear]

To hold 3rd gear, both clutch packs need to be applied. Those are only applied when the valve body sends fluid down those passages, else there is no pressure and the piston that smashes it all together relaxes and the clutches no longer apply.

Possible causes:
* stuck valve
* frictions "melded" to the steels in the front drum (never heard of this, but I guess it's an option)
* clutch apply pistons are stuck in the applied state in the front drum

If the rear clutches alone are the problem I don't think you'll have reverse. All forward gears use the rear clutches; they only turn off in reverse.
If the front clutches alone are the problem, it'll look like you'll only have 3rd or Reverse, since those are the only gears that use the front clutches.

That's my amateur diagnosis. Curious to know what the shop says. I also wonder how it behaves after letting it sit overnight.


(I've gotten so much mileage out of this chart that I created a few years back. Whenever I need it I can just google it, it's the top hit for "32RH clutch apply chart")