Upgrading the sound system on your Jeep Wrangler TJ

I believe rigs that came with a factory cub in the console had an amp built into the system somewhere. You can tap into it proper as @toximus mentioned, or bypass it entirely and do something new. I always recommend a new head unit. That is the brains of any system, then speakers and a powered sub. It all needs to be new really, the factory stuff is all junk, especially since it’s all 12+ years old, depending on your year.
 
As JMT suggested, replacing everything is a good way to go. I did a full install last month and replaced everything down to the speaker wire. The power and clarity so good.

JMT said:
an amp built into the system somewhere.
Click to expand...

It's located directly behind the sub within the console.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Musicman and JMT
Chris said:
I see a lot of questions about how to get a better sound system from your Jeep Wrangler TJ. People will often dismiss the TJ as being a vehicle with poor sound dynamics to begin with, and while this is true to some degree, I can tell you that the sound system I have in my 2005 TJ Rubicon is absolutely killer, and it didn't break the bank either!

At 65+ on the highway with the doors off and the top off, I can hear the sound loud and clear without any issue at all. I have my subwoofer volume set at 6 (out of 12) and the subwoofer volume on the amp only turned to half way. Yet the bass still kicks like you wouldn't believe!

Here's what I am using for my setup:
Some of the components I bought from Crutchfield, while others I got from Amazon.

But that's it, literally. I mounted the amp underneath the front center console (it's a very tiny amp) and the subwoofer is mounted in place of the factory subwoofer (which some TJs came with). The amp powers the subwoofer alone, and the speakers are driven off the head unit.

This sound system is no joke, I mean it. I was expecting it to be a little better than stock, but I wasn't expecting it to be this good. If you crank the volume all the way up to 35 (the highest it goes), it's deafening.

I highly recommend this setup to anyone who is looking to improve the sound in their TJ without breaking the bank. This is all you'll need, I can promise you that.

So while this isn't a "how-to" guide in terms of installing it, I feel like this is a fantastic setup at a price that won't leave you broke.
Click to expand...
Your subwoofer link above says 1 ohm... but saw in comments below you used 2 ohm? Did i read wrong?
 
The PO had installed a kicker amp and sub and an additional amp for everything else. All upgraded speakers. I have no problem hearing the radio at HW speeds with the top off. I had a guy yesterday at a stop light blasting his music. Cranked mine and played Highway to Hell. He wasn't to happy with me by the look on his face and finger. My ears are still ringing, but boy was it fun!
 
  • Like
Reactions: reddvltj, JLLJ, Musicman and 1 other person
Ericict said:
The PO had installed a kicker amp and sub and an additional amp for everything else. All upgraded speakers. I have no problem hearing the radio at HW speeds with the top off. I had a guy yesterday at a stop light blasting his music. Cranked mine and played Highway to Hell. He wasn't to happy with me by the look on his face and finger. My ears are still ringing, but boy was it fun!
Click to expand...
Did you use the same everything as chris did?
 
Not sure, the speaker and amps are the same Mfg. I have a JVC head. The sub woofer and amp are kicks. Speaker fits in the center console in the oem position. All other speakers are Polk audio with a JL audio amp. Both amps are located under the seats. Adjusting is a pia.
 
tennant said:
Did you use the same everything as chris did?
Click to expand...

Chris said:
Crap, I can't even remember now :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...

Tennant - Which amp did you install, if the same as @Chris then the specs are:

200 Watt RMS x 1 at 1/2 ohm
100 Watt RMS x 1 at 1 ohm
50 Watt RMS x 1 at 2 ohm

If you purchase that Kicker sub, which I do recommend buying, it has dual voice coils, so simply stated a 1 ohm dual voil coil wants an amp to supply 1/2 ohm or 2 ohms, while a 2 ohm dual voil coil wants an amp to supply 1 ohm or 4 ohms.

The reason the Kicker sub can take either half or double the stated ohm value is because it has dual voice coils, so you wire in series or parrallel.

The 1 ohm kicker sub, when paired with that Kicker amp, gives you two options, either use 1/2 ohm with 200 watts or 2 ohms with 50 watts, but the Kicker 2 ohm speaker gives you one option, 1 ohm with 100 watts.

In order for the 1 ohm kicker sub to utilize the 1/2 ohm with 200 watts, it must be wired in parrallel, and to use the 2 ohms with 50 watts they must be wired in series.

That Kicker 2 ohm, when paired with this specific Kicker sub, must be wired parrallel in order to utilize the 1 ohm with 100 watts.

Parrallel wiring vs Series Wiring - Picture will be better than my words:

series_parallel_speakers.jpg
 
I installed 4 of the Polk DB522 speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZWFNKA/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Two in the front dash and two in the sound bar. I have an issue with the sound bar vibrating and the plastic light lens cover. I assume the bass gets played from the rear sound bar and the fronts carry the highs and mid range?

Would adding batting help with this, or do I live with it until I can get a subwoofer installed which should then handle the low end bass and clear up the sound bar speakers?
 
No, the bass is not separated out from the highs (front to rear) with the factory system.
 
Mikester86 said:
I installed 4 of the Polk DB522 speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZWFNKA/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Two in the front dash and two in the sound bar. I have an issue with the sound bar vibrating and the plastic light lens cover. I assume the bass gets played from the rear sound bar and the fronts carry the highs and mid range?

Would adding batting help with this, or do I live with it until I can get a subwoofer installed which should then handle the low end bass and clear up the sound bar speakers?
Click to expand...

To solve for the lens cover vibration just get some foam tape or the weatherstrip foam tape. Home Depot or any hardware store will have this. Take lens cover off sound bar, place three small pieces on the lens cover, and reattach to the sound pod.

If you don't have LEDs in the sound bar consider when doing this, the LEDs are so much brighter than stock.
 
skrelnik said:
To solve for the lens cover vibration just get some foam tape or the weatherstrip foam tape. Home Depot or any hardware store will have this. Take lens cover off sound bar, place three small pieces on the lens cover, and reattach to the sound pod.

If you don't have LEDs in the sound bar consider when doing this, the LEDs are so much brighter than stock.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I have upgraded to LED's. I am going to stuff the speaker openings with polyfil and see if that helps some. I already verified that the sound bar mounting bolts are not loose.
 
  • Like
Reactions: skrelnik and JMT
Mikester86 said:
Thank you, I have upgraded to LED's. I am going to stuff the speaker openings with polyfil and see if that helps some. I already verified that the sound bar mounting bolts are not loose.
Click to expand...

Mikester86, FWIW I put baffles and polyfil behind the baffles, in the speaker opening, just to make sure I get the max sound, from the speakers. My system install is still in progress, until I get my floor coated with Lizard Skin . I can't wait to hear the difference, especially since the factory speakers are junk. I did put crossovers in the front, to accommodate the tweeters, which I installed, using the Nolan bracket system, I think it looks great, with this setup. I've already built a custom box to house the amps, grounds and power wiring. That box will sit on the floor behind the back seat. Hopefully in the next few weeks, I will have it completed and can post some picks of the system setup install. I also made custom speaker adaptors, out of textured abs for the sound bar speakers. I've always thought, if you can be a little creative, you can do pretty much what you want.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mikester86
Just added polyfill to the sound bar and front dash speakers, and what a huge difference!

No more sound bar vibration, clearer crisper and more directionally driven audio. I am extremely impressed with the sound quality now!

An amplified subwoofer is now on the list of additions.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Musicman
Chris said:
I see a lot of questions about how to get a better sound system from your Jeep Wrangler TJ. People will often dismiss the TJ as being a vehicle with poor sound dynamics to begin with, and while this is true to some degree, I can tell you that the sound system I have in my 2005 TJ Rubicon is absolutely killer, and it didn't break the bank either!

At 65+ on the highway with the doors off and the top off, I can hear the sound loud and clear without any issue at all. I have my subwoofer volume set at 6 (out of 12) and the subwoofer volume on the amp only turned to half way. Yet the bass still kicks like you wouldn't believe!

Here's what I am using for my setup:
Some of the components I bought from Crutchfield, while others I got from Amazon.

But that's it, literally. I mounted the amp underneath the front center console (it's a very tiny amp) and the subwoofer is mounted in place of the factory subwoofer (which some TJs came with). The amp powers the subwoofer alone, and the speakers are driven off the head unit.

This sound system is no joke, I mean it. I was expecting it to be a little better than stock, but I wasn't expecting it to be this good. If you crank the volume all the way up to 35 (the highest it goes), it's deafening.

I highly recommend this setup to anyone who is looking to improve the sound in their TJ without breaking the bank. This is all you'll need, I can promise you that.

So while this isn't a "how-to" guide in terms of installing it, I feel like this is a fantastic setup at a price that won't leave you broke.
Click to expand...
hey are the front ones plug n play?
 
Top Bottom
Back