Water pump?

I think maybe the housing castings are not flat. I only had trouble with an aftermarket housing. We ended up going through about four gaskets with no luck. We ended up using The Right Stuff and it sealed.

And the block. Both need to be checked. I had to belt sand a new housing and flat file the block. Bolts need sealant too...at least the long one. Be careful with torque...too much makes it worse.

-Mac
 
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got the RS 333-195 on the way.

well the new RS thermostat didn't cure my issue of running at 170 degrees.
I guess my next move will be a new fan clutch. tomorrow i may run it without the fan and see if it goes up to 195.
now i have a box full of supposedly good 195 t-stats.
 
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And you're verifying temperature through the PCM and maybe anIR thermometer on the thermostat housing?

-Mac

not as of yet, just been going by the temp gauge. it will go up to 195-200 if i drive it a while, go into a store or something and come back out, turn the switch on without cranking it. but not long after i crank the engine, it'll come back down to 170 or so. so that sort of tells me the temp sensor and gauge are working ok.
 
not as of yet, just been going by the temp gauge. it will go up to 195-200 if i drive it a while, go into a store or something and come back out, turn the switch on without cranking it. but not long after i crank the engine, it'll come back down to 170 or so. so that sort of tells me the temp sensor and gauge are working ok.

You need to do what Mac suggested .
 
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So just wondering how long did it take for you guys to receive your Robertshaw thermostat? I placed the order last Tuesday & they charged my card Wednesday & I haven't heard a peep. My luck it burnt up somewhere in Cali on transit...
 
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I think mine took a week. Can't find any email. NM paid for two day shipping...still can't find the email...grr.

-Mac
 
So just wondering how long did it take for you guys to receive your Robertshaw thermostat? I placed the order last Tuesday & they charged my card Wednesday & I haven't heard a peep. My luck it burnt up somewhere in Cali on transit...

i got mine in about a week, standard shipping USPS. i'm in N. Ga.
if you don't already know, there's a tiny burp hole that's pretty inconspicuous at a glance. i marked it with a magic marker so that it would be easy to put it in at 12:00 while putting it in.
 
i got mine in about a week, standard shipping USPS. i'm in N. Ga.
if you don't already know, there's a tiny burp hole that's pretty inconspicuous at a glance. i marked it with a magic marker so that it would be easy to put it in at 12:00 while putting it in.

Yes I remember reading to do that. You hafta download some stupid app to track it so I just emailed them instead.
I'm wondering if I may have the same issue you do. Sporadic P1486, came back on this morning but a couple of 33 degree mornings it was fine w/o running the heater. Temp gauge definitely staying far left of 210.
 
so i took my fan off and let it warm up and it warmed up to 195 and settled.
i tried to condition the fan clutch some with a drop of oil and some hand action but it made no difference so i'll be going with a new fan clutch but at least i know the t-stat is good.
 
Yes I remember reading to do that. You hafta download some stupid app to track it so I just emailed them instead.
I'm wondering if I may have the same issue you do. Sporadic P1486, came back on this morning but a couple of 33 degree mornings it was fine w/o running the heater. Temp gauge definitely staying far left of 210.

p1486 is an evap code. i had that recently and ended up replacing a lot of things. canister, pump valve, gas cap, etc.
best to take it to a shop and let them do a smoke test.
 
p1486 is an evap code. i had that recently and ended up replacing a lot of things. canister, pump valve, gas cap, etc.
best to take it to a shop and let them do a smoke test.

P1281 I meant. Showing a bunch of other evap codes but I believe the P1281 has been illuminating the light recently.
 
not as of yet, just been going by the temp gauge. it will go up to 195-200 if i drive it a while, go into a store or something and come back out, turn the switch on without cranking it. but not long after i crank the engine, it'll come back down to 170 or so. so that sort of tells me the temp sensor and gauge are working ok.

They may be working, but are they accurate.

Any fluid inside the block will exceed the temp of the tstat. (Unless super duper cold out). Assume for a minute your tstat is frozen shut and coolant cannot circulate...you are implying the coolant won't get too hot because it will.

Fluid inside the block heats up to the point it causes the tstat to open and cooler fluid takes the place of the fluid that is too hot. Then the tstat closes and warms the fluid up and repeats the cycle.

A new fan clutch won't warm your engine up, it'll is designed to cool the coolant which in turn keeps the engine at a controlled temp. The temp is controlled by the tstat.

Your coolant sensor should be in the engine block. Either up at the tstat housing or by cylinder 6. Tstats are a very basic mechanical item and rarely are they faulty.

If you take a digital thermometer and point it at the tstat housing when the tstat opens i am confident you will get a reading above 170. Maybe not 195 but it will be closer to 195 than 170.

You have to find out nearly exactly the water temp when the tstat opens. If you say it does not go above 170 because that is what is showing on a guage, you really have no clue as to what the temp is.

Do what Mac said above and know for sure. After you know the temp of the fluid when the tstat opens and at that point in time have a reading of what the sensor is sending to the computer, now you have enough pieces of the puzzle to fix the issue without throwing parts at it. Unless throwing parts at it make you warm and fuzzy.

If you do not have a digital thermometer and don't want to buy one. Take the tstat out, warm up water in a pan to 170 and see if your 195 tstat opens. Repeat the process at 195. But you will need a food thermometer. You need to verify the very basics.
 
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