What did you do to your TJ today?

Baltimoreed said:
Had to use a 2x4 to get the doors off. Guess they hadn’t been off since 2002 when they were put on. I tried driving the old bushings out with the ‘tool’ that was supplied with no luck, in fact I slightly moved my driver side lower hinge by whacking it so I removed the hinge and took it to my shop. I eventually used a small 1/8 in cutter tool in my dremel flexshaft and cut a slot through the thin insert from the bottom of the hinge. Just ran it in and out in the same spot for a few minutes. I used a pointed tool to get between it and the actual hinge and pop it out then. Just needed some place for the rusty steel to go. I didn’t remove the hinges from the truck on the others. Just cut the groove while they were still on the Tj and then popped them out. There is a seam in them, the left one was cut in the seam. Clean up the inside of the steel hinges and door pins good before you insert the delron inserts and don’t forget oil. Hope this helps.

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Try though IO may I could not get my OE bushings out. I am going to try your method with the hinges removed. Thanks for the post.
 
Installed a dead pedal yesterday. Haven't driven it since, but so far it definitely helps getting in the Jeep. Now I don't have to put all my weight on my elbow on the center console to adjust myself. Totally worth it. My center console doesn't seem too sturdy.

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A bit late but last week I did engine oil, transmission (replaced with RP Synchromax because none of the local auto stores stock Redline) and did transfer case fluid. Just finished replacing rear driveshaft U-joints with Spicer 5-1310x (my lord were the old ones rusted in there) in hopes of getting rid of a rear end noise. No luck, but it feels good to have something shiny on the Jeep for now.
 
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Well, a week long project really. So here is how it goes. Last Sunday, go up to friends house to retrieve my boat (16' Lund Mr. Pike) figure I will use the Jeep. But, spare tire holder I made was too close to ball. As I moved hitch in, before it could drop onto ball the hitch latch would close from hitting tire, preventing it from being able to drop on ball. No biggie I think, will remove the hitch insert (cat I, with the 1.25" solid shank) and get one with a little drop. OK, you know what is next. Hitch is rusted in. So through the course of Sunday, Monday and Tuesday I beat it in, out up down left right, I heat it until too hot to handle, I soak with copious amounts of PB Blaster and rig a block and two small bottle Jack's to apply push between hitch cross bar and insert. NOTHING moves. Repeat these actions many times, start soaking hitch bolts with PB on day 2.

Wednesday, deside hitch is coming off. 1/2" breaker bar with 2' cheater. Bolt into right frame internal welded in nut actually screws out! Move to left side, 3rd pull it twists off. Bolts through into bottom of stock bumper very rusted, I just saw them off with sawsall.

Hitch is now off. I hook it between grapple forks on Kubota loader with insert chained to grapple. Surely it will pull out now. Or not. Hitch folds up like a jack knife, insert does not budge a fraction.

Order new hitch.

Thursday start drilling out the twisted off bolt. Planning to drill out with 27/64" and tap to 1/2" NC. Run a 1/8th pilot hole up through center of bolt to guide.

Friday, new hitch arrives. Finish drilling out bolt up and through the frame internal nut. Tap the new threads.

Tomorrow will bolt on new hitch.IMG_20190621_193543377.jpg
 
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RipSteakface said:
Installed a dead pedal yesterday. Haven't driven it since, but so far it definitely helps getting in the Jeep. Now I don't have to put all my weight on my elbow on the center console to adjust myself. Totally worth it. My center console doesn't seem too sturdy.

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Wait, is that a break or clutch pedal? I need a dead pedal but they say, not with a clutch. I don't see why not!

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I go the new fender flares installed, rattle canned the front bumper black, aligned the front axle from side to side, leveled the steering wheel, lowered the rear axle pinion down by a half degree. It seems to drive good except for the death wobble. I still need to install the new radiator shroud and radiator, the shroud is cracked and the radiator is seeping. Need to order new belts, idler pulleys, change the oil and check the levels. By the time I get some of this done, I will be putting in the new dana 44's and outboarding the shocks.

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Bratman said:
Wait, is that a break or clutch pedal? I need a dead pedal but they say, not with a clutch. I don't see why not!

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That's a clutch. It fit no problem. I haven't driven it yet, but I backed it in and out of the garage a few times, it's def not in the way.

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Replaced both of the hubs. In doing so I found the u-joint on the driver side in this condition. The passenger side is old (probably original, like this one, 158K miles), but is still functioning. Was going to change it, but while assembling the driver side I screwed up the new u-joint meant for that side, smh. I'll take care of it soon, but had to get it on the road today.
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I used a commercial spray foam gun to insulate my speaker pods , used thick sound deadening felt in the top , and put in some 540 watt speakers to keep up with the amp .

Worked out great , clear and about a third louder as the same volume before ...so I can hear the music with no distortion over the wind.

Also took Chris’s advice and put a red spiderweb shade on it .

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