What did you do to your TJ today?

That thing is sweet! What are you plans?


I don't know yet. Nothing to extreme. It's surprisingly solid. The only area of rust I've seen is on the bottom edge of one side of the tailgate. Paint on the bottom and the bed lining spray is peeling off pretty bad.
 
In hindsight, I could have left them off. The LED headlights have flash-backs...

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First I'm cutting out the fender rust, fiber-glassing and putting diamond plate over it since I won't be able to match the paint...in the spring prb building flat fenders...Willys style. If not, I will replace the stock plastic that I shaved w/ steel and shave as well (kept my template), it looks kind of cool, and it's different. For now though, I need to get my rear track bar bracket in and front adjustable track bar installed. Bumper lights still need to be wired (thought my switch panel would be in today). Prb put a locker in the front.
Yeah, we just kind of hang out in the driveway and I let her tell me what she needs...Then she changes her mind😂
 
Started to modify my tire carrier to add this Spring loaded T-handle to keep the tire swingOut locked in a few different positions once opened and prevent it from constantly closing in on me.

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Changed out the steering gear box, which led to changing the PS pump reservoir — that little 90 degree nipple on the return side is awfully fragile.

Plans were to also change the front output shaft seal on the transfer case. Got the skid plate down easily, got the front of the drive shaft unbolted with no problem, got three of four of the bolts at the rear of the drive shaft undone with no complications.

The last bolt head stripped. Nothing will grab it enough to back it out. The bolt head flange sits in a recess, so cutting the head off isn't an option without damaging the yoke. Probably going scorched earth and cutting up the yoke to free the thing, and will replace the yoke.

UPDATE: I bought a better-than-I-had stripped bolt head extractor and the thing backed right out.
 
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Changed out the steering gear box, which led to changing the PS pump reservoir — that little 90 degree nipple on the return side is awfully fragile.

Plans were to also change the front output shaft seal on the transfer case. Got the skid plate down easily, got the front of the drive shaft unbolted with no problem, got three of four of the bolts at the rear of the drive shaft undone with no complications.

The last bolt head stripped. Nothing will grab it enough to back it out. The bolt head flange sits in a recess, so cutting the head off isn't an option without damaging the yoke. Probably going scorched earth and cutting up the yoke to free the thing, and will replace the yoke.
If you can, weld another bolt to the head of the striped bolt then wrench it out.
 
Put a new Kicker speaker in the factory sub location. Amp for it is supposed to arrive Monday. (Previous owner had stripped it out and had a box in the back.) I'm swapping back to the factory location to make the cargo area more useful.20200104_165509.jpg
 
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Installed new LED headlights with the DRL option. Used two T-tap connectors to splice into my side marker lights. I am a bum level electrician, but even I was able to get the DRL’s wired in after doing some reading around here.

The lights are definitely an upgrade from stock. I recently had full tent on my windshield installed, so I absolutely had to have some kind of an upgrade.

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I popped the hood and opened Pandora's box. The task of installing the ARB twin compressor w/ MORE mounting bracket has taken interesting turns- most were known ahead of time.

Turn 1: ARB interferes w/ SPOD controller, so mod SPOD bracket.
Turn 2: ARB interferes w/ K&N intake. I sourced an OEM bracket and did some trading.
Turn 3: Stock air filter housing interferes with the winch interrupt solenoid that I attached to the fuse panel bracket. I bend a 90* return in the fuse panel's bracket and mounted the solenoid. So, had to flatten out that bend.
Turn 4: Need to relocate the solenoid, which will likely require replacing the cable leading to the battery, and possibly the SPOD controller.

Good times. And this is why I don't have the appetite (or aptitude) to deal with fully custom suspension systems. . . .

ARB compressor is installed, but I need an 8-10AWG to 3/8" ring terminal to hook up the ground wire and finish the wiring job. Next up will be planning out the air lines.

Spod is modded and installed, and so is the stock air cleaner. I removed the winch interrupt solenoid. I have to make a bracket to relocate it, and make a cable from the solenoid to the battery.

I attempted to eliminate the mil-spec style battery terminals, but wasn't able to. So, now I'm checking out power distribution block options.

I installed the Hella "yellow" horns, so now my LJ's horn sounds a lot like my Outback. Not sure if that's an improvement or step-backward from the old horn.

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Took the grill off to repair the broken body mount bolt.
While I was there I removed both fenders so I could clean and paint as much of the frame as I could get to.
Changed all radiator hoses, heater hoses, power steering lines, brake lines, flushed brake fluid and power steering fluid and belt.

Next is replace rest of body bushings. Overhaul Dana 35 to a super 35. Maybe regear and add locker's!

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Took the grill off to repair the broken body mount bolt.
While I was there I removed both fenders so I could clean and paint as much of the frame as I could get to.
Changed all radiator hoses, heater hoses, power steering lines, brake lines, flushed brake fluid and power steering fluid and belt.

Next is replace rest of body bushings. Overhaul Dana 35 to a super 35. Maybe regear and add locker's!View attachment 132662

View attachment 132661
While you have the fenders off take a look inside the bump stop mounts and clean out the crud that tends to accumulate.