What did you do to your TJ today?

I ordered some short 1/4-28 nylon set screws in June. They got here two days ago. Now if the laser shop would finish up some stuff I ordered months ago, we could start shipping them.

One thing I've noticed over the years is lots of folks converted to LED tail lights by drilling a 4" hole for the round versions. Then they are reluctant to go back to any other style because there are no mounting holes left in the tub. I made that a trifle easier by adding 4 mounting holes, one in each corner.

View attachment 471177

The hole in the back was laid out by making a template of the stock TJ tub, tracing around it from the inside and then handing that template to the machinist.

View attachment 471178

The marker lights are held in with nylon set screws mentioned above. The lights are directional up and down in order to get them to properly create the extra wide viewing angle so I needed an easy way to adjust them and line them all up.

View attachment 471179

Will these be plug and play or will plugs need to be wired in?
 
I ordered some short 1/4-28 nylon set screws in June. They got here two days ago. Now if the laser shop would finish up some stuff I ordered months ago, we could start shipping them.

One thing I've noticed over the years is lots of folks converted to LED tail lights by drilling a 4" hole for the round versions. Then they are reluctant to go back to any other style because there are no mounting holes left in the tub. I made that a trifle easier by adding 4 mounting holes, one in each corner.

View attachment 471177

The hole in the back was laid out by making a template of the stock TJ tub, tracing around it from the inside and then handing that template to the machinist.

View attachment 471178

The marker lights are held in with nylon set screws mentioned above. The lights are directional up and down in order to get them to properly create the extra wide viewing angle so I needed an easy way to adjust them and line them all up.

View attachment 471179

Nice design and machine work , Good job Blaine.
 
Nice design and machine work , Good job Blaine.

I have a great team so thanks for noticing. They are beyond compare, so that makes it easier to keep hammering on something until you get it how you see it in your head. Without them, I wouldn't have the custom made for us marker lights that are not out there any place and trust me, we looked.
 
Final design of the cabin air filter assembly has been glued up and installed...

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Hoping to put together a bit of documentation and post a link to download the STL files this evening. (y)

Alright boys....you can download the write-up and STL files in a zip archive located here (my domain), archive password is "WTF". Hit me up in a PM here if you have any questions or issues using the files, I'll do what I can to assist. Hopefully the info included in the documentation will cover.

Nice looking tails, @mrblaine (y)
 
Will these be plug and play or will plugs need to be wired in?

To expound. We will supply all the connectors including the light side connector that plugs into the factory tail light harness. The reason the first answer is ambiguous is due to the flexibility of the design to accomodate various things the owner might want.

If you want to or need to run the factory plastic license plate holder with a light, we have a license plate light on a SS bracket that is also a drill jig for drilling through the plastic with a 3/8" bit. The connector fits through that size hole. The relocator also has a matching 3/8" hole if you want to drill the tub to hide the wire to the light.

If not, then you can notch the lip around the back of the plastic plate holder and run the wire straight up and there is a groove in the back of the tail light housing for it.

The marker lights have to be wired to a connector after they are installed into the housing. The whole intent is to be able to remove the tail light panel without undoing any wiring or removing the tail light housing from the rig. The only screw that has to be removed is under one of the mounting screws for the ground. The other two stay in place to hold the housing onto the tub.

We are working on options to deliver them plug and play for a fee or let you do it yourself. We have it simplified down to 4 butt connector connections and some heat shrink for the left side, 3 for the right side. All the parts you need will be included.
 
To expound. We will supply all the connectors including the light side connector that plugs into the factory tail light harness. The reason the first answer is ambiguous is due to the flexibility of the design to accomodate various things the owner might want.

If you want to or need to run the factory plastic license plate holder with a light, we have a license plate light on a SS bracket that is also a drill jig for drilling through the plastic with a 3/8" bit. The connector fits through that size hole. The relocator also has a matching 3/8" hole if you want to drill the tub to hide the wire to the light.

If not, then you can notch the lip around the back of the plastic plate holder and run the wire straight up and there is a groove in the back of the tail light housing for it.

The marker lights have to be wired to a connector after they are installed into the housing. The whole intent is to be able to remove the tail light panel without undoing any wiring or removing the tail light housing from the rig. The only screw that has to be removed is under one of the mounting screws for the ground. The other two stay in place to hold the housing onto the tub.

We are working on options to deliver them plug and play for a fee or let you do it yourself. We have it simplified down to 4 butt connector connections and some heat shrink for the left side, 3 for the right side. All the parts you need will be included.

This is awesome. I drilled the 4" hole and never saw a way back, so these appeal to me. Nice attention to detail.
 
To expound. We will supply all the connectors including the light side connector that plugs into the factory tail light harness. The reason the first answer is ambiguous is due to the flexibility of the design to accomodate various things the owner might want.

If you want to or need to run the factory plastic license plate holder with a light, we have a license plate light on a SS bracket that is also a drill jig for drilling through the plastic with a 3/8" bit. The connector fits through that size hole. The relocator also has a matching 3/8" hole if you want to drill the tub to hide the wire to the light.

If not, then you can notch the lip around the back of the plastic plate holder and run the wire straight up and there is a groove in the back of the tail light housing for it.

The marker lights have to be wired to a connector after they are installed into the housing. The whole intent is to be able to remove the tail light panel without undoing any wiring or removing the tail light housing from the rig. The only screw that has to be removed is under one of the mounting screws for the ground. The other two stay in place to hold the housing onto the tub.

We are working on options to deliver them plug and play for a fee or let you do it yourself. We have it simplified down to 4 butt connector connections and some heat shrink for the left side, 3 for the right side. All the parts you need will be included.

Again , This level of detail and options is uncommon these days. If someone has to have L.E.D. tail lights this is the bar set for other to strive for.
Thanks to you and your team.
 
Again , This level of detail and options is uncommon these days. If someone has to have L.E.D. tail lights this is the bar set for other to strive for.
Thanks to you and your team.

I've already replaced mine with a set of factory style LED tails some months back, but I might have to go for a set of these. I like metal over plastic and billet parts give me bit of a boner! :D
 
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To expound. We will supply all the connectors including the light side connector that plugs into the factory tail light harness. The reason the first answer is ambiguous is due to the flexibility of the design to accomodate various things the owner might want.

If you want to or need to run the factory plastic license plate holder with a light, we have a license plate light on a SS bracket that is also a drill jig for drilling through the plastic with a 3/8" bit. The connector fits through that size hole. The relocator also has a matching 3/8" hole if you want to drill the tub to hide the wire to the light.

If not, then you can notch the lip around the back of the plastic plate holder and run the wire straight up and there is a groove in the back of the tail light housing for it.

The marker lights have to be wired to a connector after they are installed into the housing. The whole intent is to be able to remove the tail light panel without undoing any wiring or removing the tail light housing from the rig. The only screw that has to be removed is under one of the mounting screws for the ground. The other two stay in place to hold the housing onto the tub.

We are working on options to deliver them plug and play for a fee or let you do it yourself. We have it simplified down to 4 butt connector connections and some heat shrink for the left side, 3 for the right side. All the parts you need will be included.

Paitently waiting
 
This is awesome. I drilled the 4" hole and never saw a way back, so these appeal to me. Nice attention to detail.
I'm trying to find some of the Ultra low profile Torx that I get from Belmetric for the license plate holder on the front in other than 6mm. Not an issue if you through bolt but if you are running corner armor, it is far easier to thread the armor than it is to try and get your hand up between the inside of the panel and the emissions group on the right side. I figure more folks will have a 1/4-20 tap than will have a 6mm tap.

I'm trying to avoid having the customer countersink the corner holes for a flat head screw.
 
Paitently waiting

I hope you are better at it than I am. This one has been harder than most because I wouldn't give in and let them do things other than how I wanted them. That part has been more painful than I imagined possible.

If you have some spare time to burn and are bored, try finding a slotted nylon set screw in 1/4-28 x 3/16" long. I purchased the last 1000 pieces I could find and I'll have to get something different or have them made. They can NOT be metal of any sort, they need to work so a bad marker light can be swapped out and no one needs to deal with the corrosion that will make that difficult.
 
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Converted over to a 2 piece crank balancer on my Lj😆
It's removable for better performance 🤣

....jokes aside doing a new crank balancer install
Guess after holding limiter for 5 minutes hooning around drifting and a drive to summit racing is where she wrote,cant blame it though the thing has 220k miles now. Thank God the balancer failed right as I pulled up to said place 😁
 
Taking wife to dinner in it.

Bragging non stop-

“Yeah, these are yer 5.9 Grand Cherokee vents. Not easy to find. Takes nerve to cut a hood. High speed grinder. Step Bit. Pretty dangerous procedure. @John Cooper and Triton ain’t done it. @Hog will. He ain’t skeered. Bet you won’t see another TJ with ‘em tonight.”




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