Oh okay maybe it isnt an issue then. Looks like i ordered a savvy one back in 2022. Wow who knew! And it was backordered back then too
The non plated one is $130 vs $200 for plated. Might just paint the non plated with Eastwood encapsulator.
What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
The non plated one is $130 vs $200 for plated. Might just paint the non plated with Eastwood encapsulator.
I probably would. JK I wouldn't paint shit.
I tried to get brakes rebuilt and asked them if I could skip the zinc coating to save some money. They were like uhhhh... no?
I’m running the zinc bombproof. If they add vibes it’s minimal but if that’s a worry just use spacers. IDK if the zinc is necessary but i always go for it here in rust country
Not just today, but over the last month or so I upgraded the radio.
It all started as a simple head unit upgrade to a new Alpine ILX-W770. I like the new head unit quite a bit and having wireless Android Auto is awesome, but there are a few things that bug me about it. Overall, a great upgrade though, and a big sound improvement.
I added front and rear cameras, and instead of tying them to the reverse lights, I set them up to activate with a switch so I can easily use them on a trail at any time.
Heated seats, a passenger USB charging port and a built in Midland GMRS radio were also installed while I was in there (this will become a theme)
As a side note, putting the USB port on the shifter cover was a mistake. When you go to pull the USB cable out it pulls the cover out instead.
The dash vents were all broken, so I 3D printed new fins and other parts to fix that "while I was in there"
Everything was working well (except my cigarette lighter because I forgot to plug it back in), but the sound was a bit hollow. The factory sub needed to be replaced "while I was in there"
I went with a small self contained JBL sub/amp combo.
I 3D printed a mount so that it would go where the factory sub was, and could also mount my GMRS radio to it. It has the angle to the base because the front of the amp has to fit over the top of a power distribution block I installed to connect the amp, set heaters and radio to.
I used a couple M6 nut certs in the floor to mount it down.
Perfect fit. Nice and tidy.
While I was in there, I routed the GMRS stubby antenna to the rear and mounted it above the tail light to keep everything compact and out of the way.
The only thing left is to print a new bucket for the center console which I have already started on. My goal is to make a bucket that is better optimized for my needs. I no longer need the cassette tape slots, and I am integrating the metal clips that the lid screws to (that never hold tight) into the print so I can include some heat set inserts that will be more sturdy.
Oh, ya. All this new stuff and a few other things is fed by a distribution block under the hood. I printed a plate to mount it on the drivers side and installed a fused power distribution block.
While I was in there and the seats were out, I replaced both bottom seat foams with the ones from Summit Racing, and installed seat heaters. I also replaced the drivers seat bracket with the 2" drop bracket that @XCRN made. Being 6" 8" I needed a little more leg room than his brackets allowed, so I had to find a way to marry the Big Boy seat bracket I already had to his dropped seat base. It took a bit of fiddling, but I was able to find a combination that was comfortable for me by adding a 1" block. I only get about an inch of drop now, but I have a ton of leg room. It is perfect for me now.
With the lower seat base, the seat sits to low to fit my fire extinguisher in front of it now, so I need to find somewhere new for that. Probably between the drivers seat and tub on the Left. Next up is leather seats. I have a local company installing new leather seat skins next week. Really looking forward to that.
It all started as a simple head unit upgrade to a new Alpine ILX-W770. I like the new head unit quite a bit and having wireless Android Auto is awesome, but there are a few things that bug me about it. Overall, a great upgrade though, and a big sound improvement.
I added front and rear cameras, and instead of tying them to the reverse lights, I set them up to activate with a switch so I can easily use them on a trail at any time.
Heated seats, a passenger USB charging port and a built in Midland GMRS radio were also installed while I was in there (this will become a theme)
As a side note, putting the USB port on the shifter cover was a mistake. When you go to pull the USB cable out it pulls the cover out instead.
The dash vents were all broken, so I 3D printed new fins and other parts to fix that "while I was in there"
Everything was working well (except my cigarette lighter because I forgot to plug it back in), but the sound was a bit hollow. The factory sub needed to be replaced "while I was in there"
I went with a small self contained JBL sub/amp combo.
I 3D printed a mount so that it would go where the factory sub was, and could also mount my GMRS radio to it. It has the angle to the base because the front of the amp has to fit over the top of a power distribution block I installed to connect the amp, set heaters and radio to.
I used a couple M6 nut certs in the floor to mount it down.
Perfect fit. Nice and tidy.
While I was in there, I routed the GMRS stubby antenna to the rear and mounted it above the tail light to keep everything compact and out of the way.
The only thing left is to print a new bucket for the center console which I have already started on. My goal is to make a bucket that is better optimized for my needs. I no longer need the cassette tape slots, and I am integrating the metal clips that the lid screws to (that never hold tight) into the print so I can include some heat set inserts that will be more sturdy.
Oh, ya. All this new stuff and a few other things is fed by a distribution block under the hood. I printed a plate to mount it on the drivers side and installed a fused power distribution block.
While I was in there and the seats were out, I replaced both bottom seat foams with the ones from Summit Racing, and installed seat heaters. I also replaced the drivers seat bracket with the 2" drop bracket that @XCRN made. Being 6" 8" I needed a little more leg room than his brackets allowed, so I had to find a way to marry the Big Boy seat bracket I already had to his dropped seat base. It took a bit of fiddling, but I was able to find a combination that was comfortable for me by adding a 1" block. I only get about an inch of drop now, but I have a ton of leg room. It is perfect for me now.
With the lower seat base, the seat sits to low to fit my fire extinguisher in front of it now, so I need to find somewhere new for that. Probably between the drivers seat and tub on the Left. Next up is leather seats. I have a local company installing new leather seat skins next week. Really looking forward to that.
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What don’t you like about the new head unit? I will say I’m liking my Sony AX3700 so far.
I also could use those brackets, I’m 6’6” so I can relate to the leg struggles. I will say stock height has worked for me since it sits more like a truck rather than a sedan.
It’s funny you say that because I did lift my LJ 2.5” and I just ordered a 1.25” body lift off black magic 20 mins ago
It’s funny you say that because I did lift my LJ 2.5” and I just ordered a 1.25” body lift off black magic 20 mins ago
No more feeling like you're sitting down on the floor!
Making me wish I had a 3d printer with this one.
6'8"you're a giant
A 3D printer and basic Fusion360 skills have been awesome for so many things around the house. I use it all the time to "fix" or improve simple things. The new printers and filaments available for reasonable prices are game changes and amazing tools to have.
Being so tall is a blessing and a curse. I just don't fit in so many things like cars, planes, clothes and doorways, but I can reach the top shelf at the grocery store!
The Sony was the other option I was considering, but I don't think it had wireless Android Auto and only has one camera input. I love wireless android Auto, and wanted a front and rear camera. I miss a physical volume dial, and the maps screen has too much crap on it. I liked the idea of using the screen for OnX maps over Android Auto, but a good 1/2" of the screen at the bottom always has a bar across it. When I am using maps I want the whole screen to be map.
With the new seat foam, lowering the seats was a must, but when I 1st installed just the lower brackets that @XCRN made, the issue was that my knees were now above my butt and the seat did not go far enough back any more. His brackets moved the seat back about an inch, but I needed more streach. It made the driving position uncomfortable for me. Adding back about an inch of height and getting the seat further back really helped compensate for the added height of the new foam, and gave me a bit of extra head room.
Yes, but also I can't seem to get out of the Jeep without catching the tip of my right foot on the tub after installing a 2 1/2" lift. That may just be an issue with having giant feet though.
One day I will get one
Hahahaha that's funny. It took me a long time to get used to that, I almost fell so many times
The Sony 6000 has a rear camera connection I believe, and an hdmi input so you can mirror your phone screen / connect entertainment systems. It also has wireless CarPlay and Android auto. It was $200 more than my 3700* . Can’t tell you how many times I’ve reached and spun to turn down the volume haha.
Might have to snag those brackets!
Not in a place to spend another $500 on this project, but that Sony AX600 looks really nice, but no 2nd camera input for the front camera.
@Duner If you are interested in a set of the seat brackets, I have material to make more of the lowering seat risers. I just need to get them welded. But shoot me a PM if you are interested.
@gbirk I am glad you got it to work out! I am only 6’ even, I cannot imagine making that extra 8” comfortable in a TJ. But it seems like it worked out well enough with the BB brackets, would they not work with the 1/2” spacers to help lower a tad more?
I could not get your brackets to match up with the Big Boy brackets without having a big angle between the two. In the 1st picture below you can see that even with the 1" spacer in the back, the two brackets do not sit flush. Without the 1" spacer there is a significant angle difference that made me a bit nervous about forcing them together with a bolt. I wanted to try to cut the 1" block at an angle so I could shorten it to about 1/2", but it seems I do not have the skills or tools to do that without loosing a finger, and I need those to type.
What I ended up with is the 1" spacer I made in the back between your bracket and the Big Boy bracket to get them to match up angle wise, and your 1/2 spacer under the front of the Big Boy Bracket between the floor and the bracket to tip the front up a bit and give better support under my knees. I am not sure where I ended up with how much it lowered the seat to be honest, but I have more headroom than before and my seating position feels really good. I am really happy with how I fit now. Thanks so much!
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After years of some precarious jenga block balancing to add some extra height to my jack I came across 911 Motorsports 4x4 floor jack extension.
I am very excited for this thing. Anyone have any experience with them?
https://www.911motorsports.net/4x4-Floor-Jack-Extension_p_77.html
I am very excited for this thing. Anyone have any experience with them?
https://www.911motorsports.net/4x4-Floor-Jack-Extension_p_77.html
That thing looks like a death trap. I wouldn't use that.
Not much, but was messing around on the passenger side and found that the bolt holding the seat belt mechanism at the bottom was nearly falling out. Grabbed the T50 and got it safe.