What do I need to do to put 35s on a stock Wrangler TJ?
- Thread starter Noakea.B
- Start date
I passed several JK’s on 37’s during the Red Clay Rally.
In fact I shocked myself at what a savvy set up with 5.13’s and a pair of ARB’s will do.
They spun all over stuff I just billy goated over.
I keep thinking I need to go to 35’s but can’t really justify why. My LJ loves it’s 33x10.5’s.
Cost isn’t a concern just wondering what do I really gain. I know what I’d lose.
ARB's are Air Lockers so the Jeep had front and rear Air Lockers
I put together a list of absolute minimal things you will need and reasonable prices for components that are mid-grade and not junk. You wouldn’t save much if you went with garbage, so this is very reasonable, but not including a regear which is not required to run 35’s safely, and not including a spare, so running a spare delete. This is absolute least I would do and I would not wheel it on anything beyond easy trail (AKA Mall Crawler)
4” Springs ($350)
4” Shocks ($250)
1” Body Lift ($175)
1” Motor Mount Lift ($50)
Adjustable front TB ($225)
Adjustable rear TB ($200)
Extended front brake lines ($30)
Extended rear sway bar links ($40)
Front sway bar disconnects ($80)
Bumpstops front and rear ($20)
Transfer Case shifter cable ($170)
Adjustable control arms ($1000)
SYE ($350)
DC ($350)
BMB Pads ($300)
35x 12.5r15 ($900)
15x8” wheels ($450)
Dana 30 4340 shafts ($550)
Dana 35 1541H shafts ($300)
$5015 + tax + install or diy
Last edited:
iamloganjames
Member
Only if it's on a Dana 35, with stock shafts!I found some really cheap 35,s I am willing to lift from stock but do you think my 3.07 gears are adequate?
And you'll need a cold air intake to give you enough power to push those big tires on those gears 
Correct, should of been more specific.
flexy suspension + lockers + 33's = low speed traction machine.
I avoid wheel spin on things when I can now, why I love locking it up on the big obstacles.
I would suggest a snorkel over a cold air system as it provide a much more power increaseAnd you'll need a cold air intake to give you enough power to push those big tires on those gears
Don't for get the well oiled K&N filter on the end of the snorkel to remove the fine dust...I would suggest a snorkel over a cold air system as it provide a much more power increase
@JMT made a good list and it is the most comprehensive answer to OP's question in 6 pages. As OP is now talking 33s and with stated intentions of 2 tracks for mountain biking access, I think a 3" spring only lift would work OK. So the body lift, motor mount lift, cable T-case shifter, brake pads and axle shafts could all be done without from the mall crawler list. That is pretty much my current set up. Here's my front end being cycled recently (definitely not a rock crawler but no significant interference w/ just under 8" up + down) :
But, that only removes about $1350 from the roughly $11000 (parts and labor) cost WITHOUT re-gear. Add lockers, shafts and gears and you're around $15K. So, as others have said, by far the most bang for your buck (looks and function) on a stock TJ is a 1" lift and 31s (see @RINC s pic on 31s, albeit w/ several other mods...).
Last edited:
Yes. You could run 35’s with 4” + highline as long as the highline gives room not only up, but also back.
33s with a 4" lift won't benefit from highlines unless you also move the shock mounts to create more up travel.
I get 14.6 mpg with my 35's. You just have to gear appropriately and not drive like an idiot.
I get 14.6 mpg with my 35's. You just have to gear appropriately and not drive like an idiot.
That sounds about right. On the highway I getaround that with 35’s. But I do get to speed quickly, I like chirping gears and trying to do wheelies!
kidding. 