YesI guess it is a little more involved than swaybar disconnects. Is it worth it (DSC) in the front where the weight will not change often?
YesI guess it is a little more involved than swaybar disconnects. Is it worth it (DSC) in the front where the weight will not change often?
Acting as the suspension and doing the damping, the issue with an air shock is the response and ride height change dramatically in temp swings. We get cold nights and warm days in the winter in JV. Rigs with air shock will be essentially sitting on the bumps in the mornings before they warm back up.What (if any) are the reasons I see (in the magazines) the REI air shocks? No more spring, no more shock, just a simple (looking) install that takes up little space and seems like a fairly easy fabrication job.
There must be a reason for these. All I know about air shocks was on my fox body Merc Capri to stop my foolishly oversized tires and rims in the back from being cut up by the fender. They rode like a tractor (no disrespect to tractors) and cornered even worse.
Are they an "upgrade" or an answer to a problem that doesn't exist?
So are you saying just switching out your rear shocks took care of the bottoming out. Just wondering because I like you are running a 4" Currie with a heavy rear bumper.I had the exact same issue. Currie 4” springs and new bilstein 5100s for a 4” lift. The rear shocks would bottom out all the time especially towards the end of the day. (Shocks would overheat?)
I switched to 4.5” RE springs in the rear hoping the stiffer spring would help.. nope, it didn’t.
So I got a set of bilstein 5160s for the rear only (essentialy a 5100 with a resi?). It solved my issue immediately. No more bottoming out.
I have a tire carrier, 35” MT mud terrain, and HIgh lift jack mounted on the rear.
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I can definitely see that. That old Capri could be two inches (IIRC) higher from a cold morning to a warm lunchtime.Acting as the suspension and doing the damping, the issue with an air shock is the response and ride height change dramatically in temp swings. We get cold nights and warm days in the winter in JV. Rigs with air shock will be essentially sitting on the bumps in the mornings before they warm back up.
The only way to do coil overs on the cheap is to find cheap coil overs. An air shock is not a coil over so it isn't an apples to apples comparison. Had you said cheap suspension without shocks and coils, then you are correct.I can definitely see that. That old Capri could be two inches (IIRC) higher from a cold morning to a warm lunchtime.
Aside from that what reason for doing this? I only see it on really high dollar builds. But it looks to me as a way to do coilovers on the cheap. So I must be missing something. Do they have any advantage over a coil over? Or even a good spring/shock setup?
So are you saying just switching out your rear shocks took care of the bottoming out. Just wondering because I like you are running a 4" Currie with a heavy rear bumper.
Yes these. What is the advantage of going this route? I've only seen them on high budget builds. Other than getting to easily adjust ride height, why are they used?There are these things, but they are the same cost as a 12" Fox RR coil over with DSC adjusters
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/shocks/stx-12-ori-stx-strut-12in-stroke
I would rather just have the foxes
Adding or subtracting nitrogen in one of the Schrader valves changes compression and rebound, adding to the other valve changes height. Makes tuning on the trail easy, small package, internal bumpstop, hydraulic and nitrogen combo, apparently they don’t need a sway bar (doubt it)Yes these. What is the advantage of going this route? I've only seen them on high budget builds. Other than getting to easily adjust ride height, why are they used?
I can do both front and rear outboard jobs in a couple of days,
Front outboarding is a thing?
Front outboarding is a thing?
Raised towers in the front.
Most of the time it's just implied.I see lots of discussions on here about rear outboarding and other than coilovers no mention of anything for the front.
i placed an antirock, still gotta tie that to the axle. they will be tried with the AR and with it disco'd, might not be real soon with all this RONA crap, but i'll try it both ways as soon as i can get to the ORV park.Adding or subtracting nitrogen in one of the Schrader valves changes compression and rebound, adding to the other valve changes height. Makes tuning on the trail easy, small package, internal bumpstop, hydraulic and nitrogen combo, apparently they don’t need a sway bar (doubt it)