What do I need to run 33x12.5 tires with no off-roading?

My recipe for 33" tires:

Properly backspaced 15x8 rims, no spacers.

Old man emu 2933 front HD springs = 2.5" lift
Old man emu rear 942x HD springs = 2.5" lift
M.O.R.E. 1" body lift
JKS front trackbar OGS126
OME rear trackbar bracket, stock rear trackbar
Rubicon Express RE1131 front disconnects
Rubicon Express shocks(aka Bilstein)
Brown Dog 1" motor mount lift
2 pair of Rubicon Express 2" bumpstops RE1385

With this setup, I have 4.0" of uptravel on my front axle.

I run Dick Cepek extreme country tires(actual height 32.8") my fenders barely touch, don't rub at full articulation, and my driveline angles are good. Pretty happy with this setup.

My wife just bought an '05 with 4" of suspension only, no body lift. We are going with the same exact tire/rim combo, so we will see how that compares.
What was the cost? And how do you use the car?
 
These were taken with around 2.5-3.0 inches of lift. Before i added the body lift. They did clear but if i keep it that way i would have had to add more bump stops or risk hitting the fenders going over speed bumps.

While it can work it would be the most uncomfortable ride you can ask for.


(Full disclosure my tires came in before the body lift did)

20180723_160407.jpg


20180723_160358.jpg
 
My recipe for 33" tires:

Properly backspaced 15x8 rims, no spacers.

Old man emu 2933 front HD springs = 2.5" lift
Old man emu rear 942x HD springs = 2.5" lift
M.O.R.E. 1" body lift
JKS front trackbar OGS126
OME rear trackbar bracket, stock rear trackbar
Rubicon Express RE1131 front disconnects
Rubicon Express shocks(aka Bilstein)
Brown Dog 1" motor mount lift
2 pair of Rubicon Express 2" bumpstops RE1385

With this setup, I have 4.0" of uptravel on my front axle.

I run Dick Cepek extreme country tires(actual height 32.8") my fenders barely touch, don't rub at full articulation, and my driveline angles are good. Pretty happy with this setup.

My wife just bought an '05 with 4" of suspension only, no body lift. We are going with the same exact tire/rim combo, so we will see how that compares.

RE shocks are Bilsteins?
 
Before considering a 2" BB, measure your stock springs to make sure they have not sagged. Sitting on level ground, the front should be 12", and the rear 8" (not including the spring isolators).

The Zone combo kit would probably be the best bang for your buck.
 
Before considering a 2" BB, measure your stock springs to make sure they have not sagged. Sitting on level ground, the front should be 12", and the rear 8" (not including the spring isolators).

The Zone combo kit would probably be the best bang for your buck.

I think i may just go with that, the zone offroad 4.25 combo kit for $550-$620.

For the sway bar option, its requires to select between the Extended End links or Extended Disconnects.. whats the difference.??
 
I think i may just go with that, the zone offroad 4.25 combo kit for $550-$620.

For the sway bar option, its requires to select between the Extended End links or Extended Disconnects.. whats the difference.??

Extended end links are solid links from your sway bar to the axle. Disconnects allow those to be easily removed for better frontend freedom (only recommended to be disconnected offroad).
 
These were taken with around 2.5-3.0 inches of lift. Before i added the body lift. They did clear but if i keep it that way i would have had to add more bump stops or risk hitting the fenders going over speed bumps.

While it can work it would be the most uncomfortable ride you can ask for.


(Full disclosure my tires came in before the body lift did)

View attachment 107719

View attachment 107720

What did you end up with? 4"?
Did you see a significant difference in hight between tires and finders after adding the body lift? What size are those tires? Looks really good.
 
Extended end links are solid links from your sway bar to the axle. Disconnects allow those to be easily removed for better frontend freedom (only recommended to be disconnected offroad).
Wont go offroad. So can just go with the Extended end links
 
Zone lift would be your best bet. I don’t know about you but my factory springs on this 20 year old Jeep had sagged enough to where the 3” bb that the previous owner had put on had become more of a leveling kit (1” in the front and maybe 1/2” in the rear) the zone kit costs $550 shipped from Morris with a discount code that you can find online with nitro shocks and disconnects so you can probably get the non disconnect and non nitro shock cheaper. I’d definitely suggest that over rough Country that you mentioned earlier and it’s only $50 more. A quality track bar would be nice but isn’t required.

If you’re wanting to keep it cheap avoid any suspension lift over 3” that seems to be the sweet spot. After that is when driveline problems come into play and you’d have to invest in a sye and rear driveshaft.
 
will 3" kit clear 33"??

Most everyone on this forum wheels and likes to offroad. I'm seeing a lot of comments as if they're setting you up with a trail rig. I would stay under 3", at 3" you may be opening a whole new can of worms that's unnecessary when you're really after looks. Your jeep stock is a very capable machine, more than capable for muddy farm roads. A quality 2" lift would probably do what you need, if not you could always add a 1.25" body lift. If you think there is a possibility you will want to truly off road one day, you may go the BB (aka spacer) route. That way you have minimal investment and can invest in a quality lift if you decide to make a real trail rig in the future. For road use and a simple farm road really doubt you'll need more than 2" IMHO.
 
What did you end up with? 4"?
Did you see a significant difference in hight between tires and finders after adding the body lift? What size are those tires? Looks really good.
I ended up around 4 inches of total lift. After the body lift.

Could not find a tape measure so a 8.4 oz redbull can for scale.

These are 33x 12.5 2.5-3 inch spring lift with 1.25 body lift.

15647685616393150379421053136176.jpg
 
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FFS...

You are headed in a really good direction with the Zone combo kit, it should allow you to lift the Jeep without needing a DC driveshaft and transfer case drop. Your stock control arms will be great for what you want to do, but if the bushings are worn out I'd replace them with new factory replacement units over cheap aftermarket "upgrades". If you end up with driveline vibrations after you lift it you can add washers under the transfer case skid to drop the output of the transfer case until the vibes go away.

An adjustable track bar would also be a good improvement over the stock but isn't necessarily required. You can also drill another hole in the bracket to move the axle over with the stock track bar (likely described in the lift kit instructions). If your stock unit is worn out go with Currie, JKS, or metalcloak.

The only other thing you might look into is if someone is willing to change out the shocks in the kit to the much loved Rancho 5000x shocks instead of the ones that come in the kit, but I believe the zone shocks are OK. I have no experience with them but I do with the ranchos. Definitely get ranchos for less lift than what you have as they tend to run long if you go that route.

Getting the sway bar disconnects isn't a bad idea, they aren't that much more money and you'll always have them if you do end up deciding to go offroad with your kid. These Jeeps have a way of talking you into things you wouldn't think you'd do otherwise.


Something else of note, once you get 33" tires the tire shop is going to send you home with them grossly overinflated. Drop the pressure when you get home to somewhere around 26psi and the ride will be much better.


Another thing. If you want to see how much suspension travel you use on the road wrap a zip tie around the shock shaft, push it down to the body of the shock and do a week of normal driving. I can easily use 5" of suspension travel on the road which is more than it had from the factory. Personally I've driven lowered vehicles and it sucks riding around on the bumpstops, having less travel that what a vehicle came with from the factory (namely a truck or 4 wheel drive) just isn't acceptable to me any more. I want the best ride possible out of my Jeep within reason.
 
FFS...

You are headed in a really good direction with the Zone combo kit, it should allow you to lift the Jeep without needing a DC driveshaft and transfer case drop. Your stock control arms will be great for what you want to do, but if the bushings are worn out I'd replace them with new factory replacement units over cheap aftermarket "upgrades". If you end up with driveline vibrations after you lift it you can add washers under the transfer case skid to drop the output of the transfer case until the vibes go away.

An adjustable track bar would also be a good improvement over the stock but isn't necessarily required. You can also drill another hole in the bracket to move the axle over with the stock track bar (likely described in the lift kit instructions). If your stock unit is worn out go with Currie, JKS, or metalcloak.

The only other thing you might look into is if someone is willing to change out the shocks in the kit to the much loved Rancho 5000x shocks instead of the ones that come in the kit, but I believe the zone shocks are OK. I have no experience with them but I do with the ranchos. Definitely get ranchos for less lift than what you have as they tend to run long if you go that route.

Getting the sway bar disconnects isn't a bad idea, they aren't that much more money and you'll always have them if you do end up deciding to go offroad with your kid. These Jeeps have a way of talking you into things you wouldn't think you'd do otherwise.


Something else of note, once you get 33" tires the tire shop is going to send you home with them grossly overinflated. Drop the pressure when you get home to somewhere around 26psi and the ride will be much better.


Another thing. If you want to see how much suspension travel you use on the road wrap a zip tie around the shock shaft, push it down to the body of the shock and do a week of normal driving. I can easily use 5" of suspension travel on the road which is more than it had from the factory. Personally I've driven lowered vehicles and it sucks riding around on the bumpstops, having less travel that what a vehicle came with from the factory (namely a truck or 4 wheel drive) just isn't acceptable to me any more. I want the best ride possible out of my Jeep within reason.

Thank you. For $550 i may just get the zone offroad combo 4.25" with Extended End links. it doesnt require much. How would street ride feels like on 4.25" lift?

I am also open to consider a 2" or 3" good quality lift is it will clear the 33" times and work for what am trying to accomplish. Any recommendation?
 
At 4" of lift with 33" tires you are going to feel different driving down the road, particularly on curvy roads. I personally don't mind how mine handles even with a looser sway bar. I can keep up with most vehicles on curvy mountain roads no problem without feeling tippy. I can also cruise 70mph down the freeway and let go of the steering wheel. I have a good tight steering and well balanced tires though.

Don't forget though when you go to bigger tires you are very likely going to NEED to regear your Jeep. For what you want to do with your Jeep you're likely better off going with a 1-2" lift with 31" tires where your current gear ratio (depending on what you have now) is likely to be more acceptable. With the 3.07 ratio and the 5 speed transmission in my Jeep when I bought it I never used 4th-5th gear. I've since regeared to 4.56 and almost wish I would have went 4.88 for the amount of freeway driving I do. Now I only use 1st gear when on a hill or when the Jeep is really loaded down, otherwise I take off in 2nd to save a shift halfway through the intersection. (On the other hand the previous owner had no issues with how it drove even before I fixed the suspension and steering when it was freaking scary doing just 55mph)
 
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