What makes RockJock better than JKS or BDS? OR Auto VS Man Pt37

TerryD said:
Looking at a 3-4" short arm lift for my LJ and I'm curious what about the RockJock stuff is actually better than a similar JKS or BDS kit.

They all seem like similar parts and JKS and BDS have been building suspension parts for many many years. I had their track bar on my XJ and I was very happy with it's function and longevity.
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John Currie has a history of involvement in racing and building quality part that far exceeds JKS including entering in the first rock crawling competition in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Their vehicle was a Jeep TJ.

https://www.currieenterprises.com/about-us
 
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Rickyd said:
I get that.your idea of adequate compression braking worked for your uses.you didn't die or lose your brakes or control.so to you maybe I'm talking nonsense because i must have the same criteria and uses.Our rigs don't get used the same way.

It isn't that what i do is extreme. It is that my manual(and the yj,cj guys with manuals)will go slower than a lower geared auto.the autos wind up riding their brakes trying to slow down to our pace.

Should it be a terrible thing that manuals have one or two advantages over some autos? Does it need to be an insult to guys that run autos? Do your uses and criteria need to be the only valid ones?
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I'm with you. I don't know why people are having so much difficulty understanding it.

1. Between an ax15 and either automatic with the same downstream gearing, the ax15 will out-engine brake the autos.
2. Lower gearing is not an option with 32rh because no overdrive.
3. 42rle is not a reasonable option due to how much more complicated it would be to swap into your pre-42rle rig
4. The manual does what you need it to do, so it makes no sense whatsoever to spend the hours and thousands of dollars to swap in an auto plus a transfer case just to make it perform as well in the one specific criteria that your ax15 does just fine.


The fact is the people arguing with you aren't satisfied just saying the auto makes technical rock crawling more possible and accepting that there might be one single thing the manual might do a little better in a specific use case. It has to be better in every possible way or you're the dumbest MFer on planet earth. It's the same type of completely nuance-lacking, all or nothing, black and white bullshit we get into on every topic with even a smidgeon of room for opinion or gray area, or spectrum.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
I'm with you. I don't know why people are having so much difficulty understanding it.

1. Between an ax15 and either automatic with the same downstream gearing, the ax15 will out-engine brake the autos.
2. Lower gearing is not an option with 32rh because no overdrive.
3. 42rle is not a reasonable option due to how much more complicated it would be to swap into your pre-42rle rig
4. The manual does what you need it to do, so it makes no sense whatsoever to spend the hours and thousands of dollars to swap in an auto plus a transfer case just to make it perform as well in the one specific criteria that your ax15 does just fine.


The fact is the people arguing with you aren't happy just saying the auto makes technical rock crawling more possible and accepting that there might be one single thing the manual might do a little better in a specific use case. It has to be better in every possible way or you're the dumbest MFer on planet earth. It's the same type of completely nuance-lacking, all or nothing, black and white bullshit we get into on every topic with even a smidgeon of room for opinion or gray area, or spectrum.
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Thank you. I'm beginning to think i should go to therapy so i have the tools to reach these guys.🤣

It would come in handy with "special" customers too!
 
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starkey480 said:
I don’t think he wants a new axle 😉
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That comment show exactly how little you know about ROCKJOCK by John Currie… But then again having been introduced to John Currie by Casey Folks at the Nevada 1000 I wouldn’t know anything…
But you keep doing you…

EC6FC351-4222-41B9-ADF3-9EA41929809B.jpeg
 
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Havasu said:
That comment show exactly how little you know about ROCKJOCK by John Currie… But then again having been introduced to John Currie by Casey Folks at the Nevada 1000 I wouldn’t know anything…
But you keep doing you…

View attachment 533489
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Pipe down, Jerry!
 
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Havasu said:
John Currie has a history of involvement in racing and building quality part that far exceeds JKS including entering in the first rock crawling competition in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Their vehicle was a Jeep TJ.

https://www.currieenterprises.com/about-us
Click to expand...

I know Currie makes good stuff, that's not in question.

Mainly what I'm asking here is does the extra money for the Currie stuff for a non-competition rig really provide a noticeable improvement in performance?

Lots of folks push the ultra-skookum parts for every situation but there's a point of diminishing returns for a lot of it.

Everyone touts the 2.5" Radflo external reservoir shocks for the Xterra but I'm not doing desert racing or high speed stuff so my emulsion 2.0 Rads have been great for nearly 70k miles of mixed DD and wheeling use.

I'm running the $14 Energy Suspension bump stops instead of the $250 Timbren ones as well because my wheeling style doesn't require them.

But I am running the $900 Alcan custom rear leaf packs and did spring for Radflo shocks all around because of their superior build quality and longevity while being able to control the higher spring rates in running.

I'm not afraid to spend the money, but I don't need a bunch of race spec parts if they're much more labor/maintenance intensive and expensive for very minimal performance gains in the big picture.
 
Havasu said:
That comment show exactly how little you know about ROCKJOCK by John Currie… But then again having been introduced to John Currie by Casey Folks at the Nevada 1000 I wouldn’t know anything…
But you keep doing you…

View attachment 533489
Click to expand...
Havasu said:
John Currie has a history of involvement in racing and building quality part that far exceeds JKS including entering in the first rock crawling competition in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Their vehicle was a Jeep TJ.

https://www.currieenterprises.com/about-us
Click to expand...
Then you should know that Currie Enterprises, the company you linked, sells axles and not suspension parts.
 
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TerryD said:
I know Currie makes good stuff, that's not in question.

Mainly what I'm asking here is does the extra money for the Currie stuff for a non-competition rig really provide a noticeable improvement in performance?

Lots of folks push the ultra-skookum parts for every situation but there's a point of diminishing returns for a lot of it.

Everyone touts the 2.5" Radflo external reservoir shocks for the Xterra but I'm not doing desert racing or high speed stuff so my emulsion 2.0 Rads have been great for nearly 70k miles of mixed DD and wheeling use.

I'm running the $14 Energy Suspension bump stops instead of the $250 Timbren ones as well because my wheeling style doesn't require them.

But I am running the $900 Alcan custom rear leaf packs and did spring for Radflo shocks all around because of their superior build quality and longevity while being able to control the higher spring rates in running.

I'm not afraid to spend the money, but I don't need a bunch of race spec parts if they're much more labor/maintenance intensive and expensive for very minimal performance gains in the big picture.
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It entirely depends on what you want out of the Jeep. Mine isn't a competition rig, but I have a lot of old Currie and current RockJock stuff because I like things that fit and work well. And these same parts are combined with many other well designed components and modifications that all work together to make an unusually good Jeep.
 
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jjvw said:
My tires will rub the SL at full steering lock. At the same time, they will catch the spring loaded slide block making a ticking sound.
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Sorry, catching up on this thread since I just got back from vacation. That's what I was referring to when I say it clicks (y) The rubbing does occur to both the AR and SL, but my recollection was that it rubbed more/earlier due to the extra pieces it has. The AR doesn't bother me in the least when on road, but then again, it really wouldn't be a problem until you need a stiff sway bar.
 
mrblaine said:
The SwayLOC doesn't rub on anything and simply can't. Tires can and do rub on the SwayLOC arms just as well and as easily as they rub on Anti-rock arms. Any clicking that may be heard is coming from worn joints and that will be the exact same clicking we both hear from worn joints in the AR links.

The telling point here though is your statement- "If you want as good or better than stock road manners". The folks that enjoy the SwayLOC are almost always in the same group as those who like and want better steering so they do hydro assist and such from PSC, they want much better brakes, so they install a brake kit, they want better suspension, so they outboard and tune shocks with stellar reservoirs.

I don't know that anyone says or believes the offroad setting is better than an AR. It can't be, it can be equivalent because it is. Swaybar diameter, rate, and arm length determine that and they are so similar that to try and pick one over the other would be splitting some very fine hair.
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I'm with you. I clarified my previous statement. It also appears his original statement I quoted was towards on road use. That all makes sense. Off road, they are virtually the same. The clicking I heard wasn't the links as they were new I believe. He mentioned the slide lock and that makes sense to me.
 
Havasu said:
That comment show exactly how little you know about ROCKJOCK by John Currie… But then again having been introduced to John Currie by Casey Folks at the Nevada 1000 I wouldn’t know anything…
But you keep doing you…
Click to expand...

This message has a familiar tone that hasn't been around in a bit.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
I'm with you. I don't know why people are having so much difficulty understanding it.

1. Between an ax15 and either automatic with the same downstream gearing, the ax15 will out-engine brake the autos.
2. Lower gearing is not an option with 32rh because no overdrive.
3. 42rle is not a reasonable option due to how much more complicated it would be to swap into your pre-42rle rig
4. The manual does what you need it to do, so it makes no sense whatsoever to spend the hours and thousands of dollars to swap in an auto plus a transfer case just to make it perform as well in the one specific criteria that your ax15 does just fine.


The fact is the people arguing with you aren't satisfied just saying the auto makes technical rock crawling more possible and accepting that there might be one single thing the manual might do a little better in a specific use case. It has to be better in every possible way or you're the dumbest MFer on planet earth. It's the same type of completely nuance-lacking, all or nothing, black and white bullshit we get into on every topic with even a smidgeon of room for opinion or gray area, or spectrum.
Click to expand...

Fuck off.
 
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