What type of oil do you use?

I dont drive many miles as my jeeps are just for pleasure. I do not go by time. Only mileage. I do change every 3-4k miles though.
 
Jerry is absolutely right! It's the acids that form and the combustion by-products that contaminate the oil.....ANY oil, so changing the oil AND filter at least every 5,000 miles is the key to engine longevity. In the north, oil actually becomes contaminated sooner during the cold season, so 3,000 mile interval change is better.
 
The color of the oil on the dipstick will tell you when it is time to change it, irregardless of mileage.

When oil gets dirty enough - or old enough - it will turn from golden brown to black.

5000 mile oil changes a guideline. Depending on the color of the oil on the dipstick, I have let mine go a little longer between oil changes at times and at other times I have changed it sooner.
 
I'm running Napa's synthetic 10w30 and their filter. I'll start to pick up stuff I need when hit about 4000 on an oil change and change it around 4500-5000 miles.
 
Old thread, but what Jerry said is sage advice, and sage advice is timeless. Change your oil and filter every 3K if your driving mostly short trips around town, and 5K if your driving is mostly highway. It's the least expensive way to maximize the life of the moving parts in your engine.
 
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The owner's manual does not specify conventional or synthetic oil for the engine. Either works fine in non-extreme cold weather conditions, conventional is less expensive and does an excellent job at protecting our engines. The only time that synthetic becomes worth its extra cost is if you're in extremely cold like sub-zero winter conditions like in in Alaska, North Dakota, Minnesota, Buffalo NY, etc. :)
Buffalo NY is not cold, it just snows alot.
 
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Show and Tell, I used 20w-50 and this is what happened @ 1700mi in. Motor had 180910mi.
check out my Holy-Moly Post

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Here in SOCAL I use a conventional Valvoline 10W-30 year-round. But if Valvoline were to disappear tomorrow, I'd happily run any major brand of engine oil... they're all superb now.

If I lived where it got really cold, I'd switch to a 5W-30 synthetic for the winter but go back to conventional 10W-30 once it started warming up. I've never been a fan of Mobil-1 after reading lots of reports of increased iron levels in oil test samples with that oil from Blackstone Lab's oil analyses.
Jerry recommended a Nappa oil if you have a rear main seal leak. Which one was it Jerry?
 
Some manufacturers recommend, but do not require synthetic. Dino oil is, as Jerry has said, plenty sufficient for proper lubrication. If you live on the North Slope, Iceland, or the U.P. in Michigan there are times when synthetic makes sense.

Save the money for something else, like a really good oil filter. Or halo's for your headlights.
Speaking of oil filters. I’ve always used MOPAR filters. Opinions?
 
castrol 10w 30 and a cheap fram filter. several vehicles over the years with lots of miles on them and never an engine failure. ford, chevy, dodge, nissan and datsun. 5k oil & filter always. take care of your vehicles and they’ll take care of you.
 
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castrol 10w 30 and a cheap fram filter. several vehicles over the years with lots of miles on them and never an engine failure. ford, chevy, dodge, nissan and datsun. 5k oil & filter always. take care of your vehicles and they’ll take care of you.
X2, though I use the better Tough Guard oil filter from Fram. It has the better silicone check valve and a better filter that is 99% efficient which is better than most oil filters even many far more expensive models. The standard Extra Guard from Fram has a 95% filtration efficiency which is pretty common among even more expensive filters.
 
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X2, though I use the better Tough Guard oil filter from Fram. It has the better silicone check valve and a better filter that is 99% efficient which is better than most oil filters even many far more expensive models. The standard Extra Guard from Fram has a 95% filtration efficiency which is pretty common among even more expensive filters.
way back in the day there was only one fram filter around these parts.
 
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Please for the sake of the the Forum and international relations don't tell @Fishtaco ! :p
Running 20W-60 Penrite high mileage mineral at the moment and its winter here, no leak down runs puuurfect! You guys are so set in your ways and blinded with oil viscosities lol, older worn engines require more than manufactures recommended! Its a bit like 02 sensors, we cant get NTK/NGK unless we import them but many Aussie jeeps are running Bosh or similar with no problems at all! Too many of you have been "Jerryfied" lol, If he had his way everyone would only have a 2004 Auto TJ "According to Google" Careful who you praise because not all non mechanics are mechanical messiahs Just because of personal experience! Me I tend to trust mechanical advise when it counts. :)

https://www.penrite.info/en/engine-oils/hpr-series/hpr-30-20w-60-mineral
 
Show and Tell, I used 20w-50 and this is what happened @ 1700mi in. Motor had 180910mi.
check out my Holy-Moly Post

View attachment 333242
You engine was fucked already else you would be using 10w-30 not 20w-50!, 200thou miles is worn engine and could have been abused buy yourself and others thinking this motor is bullet proof, add another 1500 miles and its more toast to a worn engine regardless your maintenance.
 
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You engine was fucked already else you would be using 10w-30 not 20w-50!, 200thou miles is worn engine and could have been abused buy yourself and others thinking this motor is bullet proof, add another 1500 miles and its more toast to a worn engine regardless your maintenance.
I used full synth Mobil 1 after break-in period I'm the original owner . Doing changes every 5000-7500mi. Jeep manual recommends every 7500mi. No racing or towing with a 2.5l The 20w-50 was my last oil change I switched oil vis, to quiet engine noises. Got 1700 mi in and blewey. It got quiet very quiet.
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