Which SYE?

tworley

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Remember, if you choose to do the super short and eliminate your mechanical speedo gear, the new electronics to adjust your speedo will require frequent adjustments as your tires wear down.
Not enough to warrant constant changes on the speedo healer. And the same can be said for a mechanical gear too.
 
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JKLNHYD

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How does mechanical vs electrical revolution monitoring differ because of tire wear?
Depends on how much you drive and how soft your tires are. My wife's JK had to have a digital calibration to accomodate the 35" tires she was running. About every three months I'd measure the actual tire height and I'd have to recalibrate the the speedo based on that. But she drove it daily. If I forgot for a bit, it seemed to shift funny sometimes. With a TJ, that wouldn't likely be an issue. It was just a hassle to me... Maybe not so much for others.
 

Apparition

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Depends on how much you drive and how soft your tires are. My wife's JK had to have a digital calibration to accomodate the 35" tires she was running. About every three months I'd measure the actual tire height and I'd have to recalibrate the the speedo based on that. But she drove it daily. If I forgot for a bit, it seemed to shift funny sometimes. With a TJ, that wouldn't likely be an issue. It was just a hassle to me... Maybe not so much for others.
My question is how is that different than the mechanical setup? The gearing doesn’t compensate for tire wear.
 
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Midtenn

Midtenn

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what I haven’t figure out is how to do the initial calibration. It appears subsequent calibration is only required if you change tire heights or gearing. If you keep those the same, I am not seeing the need to buy a tool to keep calibrated.
 
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Apparition

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what I haven’t figure out is how to do the initial calibration. It appears subsequent calibration is only required if you change tire heights or gearing. If you keep those the same, I am not seeing the need to buy a tool to keep calibrated.
If everything is stock sure but most people don’t add an SYE and stay stock.
 
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Midtenn

Midtenn

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If everything is stock sure but most people don’t add an SYE and stay stock.
My case is weird in that I’m adding the SYE after all the adjustments. But I may have additional considerations about my current lift height vs tire height. I’ll need to read those threads to see if those issues apply to me and how I use it.

I feel like I’m doing things backwards as the previous owner just put 35s on there without doing the unfun stuff to make it work. I’m accustomed to this in muscle cars though.
 

Apparition

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My case is weird in that I’m adding the SYE after all the adjustments. But I may have additional considerations about my current lift height vs tire height. I’ll need to read those threads to see if those issues apply to me and how I use it.

I feel like I’m doing things backwards as the previous owner just put 35s on there without doing the unfun stuff to make it work. I’m accustomed to this in muscle cars though.
If you have 35’s and go to an SSYE you’ll need a speedohealer

https://www.polyperformance.com/hea...wrangler-04-06-tj-98-01-cherokee-xj-shv4a-j01
 

06TJ35's

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My case is weird in that I’m adding the SYE after all the adjustments. But I may have additional considerations about my current lift height vs tire height. I’ll need to read those threads to see if those issues apply to me and how I use it.

I feel like I’m doing things backwards as the previous owner just put 35s on there without doing the unfun stuff to make it work. I’m accustomed to this in muscle cars though.
You have officially entered the rabbit hole club😂 J.ust E.mpty E.very P.ocket.
Yes I strongly suggest on reading a lot of threads before you decide to start buying parts. Here’s a very good one tell us your thoughts after you read this thread.

 

DrDmoney

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If you never plan on changing your skid and 3 1/2 to 4 inches of lift is the max you will ever go there is no need for a super short SYE, a standard SYE will work and you will be able to run the standard speedo mechanism. You will need adjustable upper control arms though to adjust your pinion angle correctly. A 1310 yoke is what you want and J.B.Conversions yoke is shorter than the others
 
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JKLNHYD

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My question is how is that different than the mechanical setup? The gearing doesn’t compensate for tire wear.
Correct. I didn't want to feel compelled to adjust it every couple of months. I'm not swapping the mech gear out as tires wear, either. Just my preference.
 

Igoo65

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Depends on how much you drive and how soft your tires are. My wife's JK had to have a digital calibration to accomodate the 35" tires she was running. About every three months I'd measure the actual tire height and I'd have to recalibrate the the speedo based on that. But she drove it daily. If I forgot for a bit, it seemed to shift funny sometimes. With a TJ, that wouldn't likely be an issue. It was just a hassle to me... Maybe not so much for others.
There is your problem, a JK. :ROFLMAO: You must be an engineer, if you are out there measuring your tires!
 

Igoo65

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My case is weird in that I’m adding the SYE after all the adjustments. But I may have additional considerations about my current lift height vs tire height. I’ll need to read those threads to see if those issues apply to me and how I use it.

I feel like I’m doing things backwards as the previous owner just put 35s on there without doing the unfun stuff to make it work. I’m accustomed to this in muscle cars though.
I was in the same boat. The guy I bought my TJ installed 35's and didn't regear or add any of the parts need to do the conversion correctly. I have spent a ton of hours and money making it right! I added a JB Conversions SSYE with a speedohealer and I haven't had to adjust it since it went in. I am running 35's with 4" springs and no body lift and I have plenty of clearance. I plan to add a body lift, because I want to add a tummy tuck. I did my SYE myself and I was surprised how easy it was to install. Just go slow and take pictures as you go and lay your parts out in alignment, so they go back in correctly.
Igoo65
 
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Midtenn

Midtenn

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I was in the same boat. The guy I bought my TJ installed 35's and didn't regear or add any of the parts need to do the conversion correctly. I have spent a ton of hours and money making it right! I added a JB Conversions SSYE with a speedohealer and I haven't had to adjust it since it went in. I am running 35's with 4" springs and no body lift and I have plenty of clearance. I plan to add a body lift, because I want to add a tummy tuck. I did my SYE myself and I was surprised how easy it was to install. Just go slow and take pictures as you go and lay your parts out in alignment, so they go back in correctly.
Igoo65
would you do anything differently after you made those mods?
 

Igoo65

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The only thing that I did before the SSYE was to install a Ford Explorer 8.8 in place of the Dana 35. In hindsight, I probably would have gone with a super Dana 35 kit and saved a lot of money to where I could have installed the SSYE sooner. At the time the information I was getting from this forum and others said to go with a 8.8, so I did. Don't get me wrong the 8.8 has worked great! I just could have put that money elsewhere. I.e. SSYE, locker.
 
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Midtenn

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If you never plan on changing your skid and 3 1/2 to 4 inches of lift is the max you will ever go there is no need for a super short SYE, a standard SYE will work and you will be able to run the standard speedo mechanism. You will need adjustable upper control arms though to adjust your pinion angle correctly. A 1310 yoke is what you want and J.B.Conversions yoke is shorter than the others
while I trust you are guiding me correctly, I’d like to understand some assumptions here that the others aren’t making. This is how I’d prefer to go but I want to understand all of what I’m locked into if that makes any sense.

The only future upgrades I see if I fell into a bucket of money and time is truetracs and upgraded 27 spline axles.
 

DrDmoney

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If you lift your Jeep more than 4-1/2” of spring lift and decide to tuck your tummy more than 2” super short SYE is the path you should take. I have a standard SYE, 4-1/2” of lift, and a high clearance UCF skid running 35’s. All I am trying to say is if you don’t plan on going beyond these parameters, why not keep it simple with the mechanical Speedo? Mine has been this way with exception to the skid for 20 years with no issues. As for your future upgrades it has no effect on them other than the savings ($200+) on unnecessary mods can go towards the mods you want. If you want a longer driveshaft or want to have a flat belly then consider that route. I’m not sure what your gearing is but it should be at least 4.88:1 and if you’re gonna make any changes in your diffs it’s best to do it all at once to save a little coin.
 
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