OP
I think I’ll decide after I drive it with the 31s. It may be better enough that I don’t mind. Thank you for the info!!
Whitney's Back to Stock Build: A Tribute to my first Jeep (04 Wrangler Sport, Light Khaki Metallic)
- Thread starter wborisenok
- Start date
I think I’ll decide after I drive it with the 31s. It may be better enough that I don’t mind. Thank you for the info!!
I’m also advocating for this. Once you get on 31’s put a few miles on it. Notice your rpms. Feel the power or lack of it.
Play around with the gear calculator on GrimJeeper and then make your choice.
I second the locker or traction aid at the same time as a re-gear.
OP
Thanks to @mrblaine, I was able to get my factory sidesteps properly and securely installed. For anyone else who might search this in the future: I highly suggest a manual insertion tool (used with socket wrench and crescent wrench) for this task instead of a hand tool. You can operate the manual insertion tool in tighter spaces and the end result is a more secure fit. Also, quality hardware is important! Manual insertion tool linked here.
Next project is to replace the fender flares. Started this yesterday and already got more than I bargained for. Why’d I think it would be straightforward?
It took me about an hour to remove the rear fender flare alone and then both kids woke up so I had to leave it at that for now. The hardware seemed to be spinning freely when I was backing it out, so I applied pressure by stuffing a clean rag behind the flare near whatever bolt I was working on; moved it closer as I backed each one out. That worked like a charm but took forever.
I also need to figure out how the original hardware was setup…there are 8 bolts holding the rear render in place. Once all was said and done, there were nutserts left in holes 1, 2 and 8 if you’re numbering them front to back. It would seem odd to come from the factory that way, but the hardware matches up: there are 3 bolts with smaller washers and 5 bolts with larger washers. From what I’ve read on here, the ones with the larger washers likely had square nuts inside the body holding them in place. Hopefully the nutserts on the other flares are intact as well and I can just pop out the wheel well liner enough to get back there with channel locks to hold the square nuts for installation of the new ones.
Trim removal kit arrived this morning so I can remove the wheel well liners with a bit more ease. Heading to the hardware store this morning to get some backup hardware and then I hope to spend a couple hours during nap times getting the new flare back on before I jump to the next one.
Next project is to replace the fender flares. Started this yesterday and already got more than I bargained for. Why’d I think it would be straightforward?
It took me about an hour to remove the rear fender flare alone and then both kids woke up so I had to leave it at that for now. The hardware seemed to be spinning freely when I was backing it out, so I applied pressure by stuffing a clean rag behind the flare near whatever bolt I was working on; moved it closer as I backed each one out. That worked like a charm but took forever.I also need to figure out how the original hardware was setup…there are 8 bolts holding the rear render in place. Once all was said and done, there were nutserts left in holes 1, 2 and 8 if you’re numbering them front to back. It would seem odd to come from the factory that way, but the hardware matches up: there are 3 bolts with smaller washers and 5 bolts with larger washers. From what I’ve read on here, the ones with the larger washers likely had square nuts inside the body holding them in place. Hopefully the nutserts on the other flares are intact as well and I can just pop out the wheel well liner enough to get back there with channel locks to hold the square nuts for installation of the new ones.
Trim removal kit arrived this morning so I can remove the wheel well liners with a bit more ease. Heading to the hardware store this morning to get some backup hardware and then I hope to spend a couple hours during nap times getting the new flare back on before I jump to the next one.
OP
Okay, got the driver’s side rear fender installed. Some notes:
— The 3 nutserts with 5 bolts/square nuts was correct: holes 1, 2, and 8 are nutserts and the rest are bolts with washers and square nuts
— I went to the hardware store and got additional stainless steel bolts/washers/lock nuts. That’s what I ended up using for reinstall and they worked out great. My fender set came with hardware but seemingly not enough; I think they assume you’ll reuse some of the old hardware. I wanted everything to match so I replicated the hardware they provided.
— I ended up partially taking out the wheel well liner and trying to work by pushing it back and sticking my hand through, but it was a total pain in the butt. It’s only held on with 6 plastic clips, it’s worth getting a trim tool and just taking the whole thing out. It took me two minutes and it cleared the whole space and made installation 10x easier. It went back in easy too. Also, now that I know how easy they are to remove I’m probably going to pull them again in the spring and hit them with the pressure washer. So much mud back there!
— I was able to use 5 of the 6 clips when I put it back in. My new flares came with some extra clips in the hardware pack, but I’d suggest having some on hand if you need to pull the liners at any point. I’m going to order one of those assorted kits from Amazon.
Anyway, I lucked out and all 3 nutserts were solid! Hoping that’s the case for the other side. Now that I’ve got it hashed out, I’ll probably be able to do that side in half the time…then I’ll tackle the fronts. Again, not sure if anyone’s actually following along here but I think it could be useful in search!
— The 3 nutserts with 5 bolts/square nuts was correct: holes 1, 2, and 8 are nutserts and the rest are bolts with washers and square nuts
— I went to the hardware store and got additional stainless steel bolts/washers/lock nuts. That’s what I ended up using for reinstall and they worked out great. My fender set came with hardware but seemingly not enough; I think they assume you’ll reuse some of the old hardware. I wanted everything to match so I replicated the hardware they provided.
— I ended up partially taking out the wheel well liner and trying to work by pushing it back and sticking my hand through, but it was a total pain in the butt. It’s only held on with 6 plastic clips, it’s worth getting a trim tool and just taking the whole thing out. It took me two minutes and it cleared the whole space and made installation 10x easier. It went back in easy too. Also, now that I know how easy they are to remove I’m probably going to pull them again in the spring and hit them with the pressure washer. So much mud back there!
— I was able to use 5 of the 6 clips when I put it back in. My new flares came with some extra clips in the hardware pack, but I’d suggest having some on hand if you need to pull the liners at any point. I’m going to order one of those assorted kits from Amazon.
Anyway, I lucked out and all 3 nutserts were solid! Hoping that’s the case for the other side. Now that I’ve got it hashed out, I’ll probably be able to do that side in half the time…then I’ll tackle the fronts. Again, not sure if anyone’s actually following along here but I think it could be useful in search!
Before you order that Xmas tree push pin set, I found a push pin from Napa Auto that works well, and is reusable, unlike the Xmas tree pins. I'll get you the part # Monday when I get to work.
OP
have you found oem fog lights yet? i have the ones that came off of mine if needed/wanted. they’re from an 06 khaki.
OP
OP
The small projects continue..got both rear flares removed and reinstalled. What a PITA. The fronts have already proven to be much easier, thank god. I probably shouldn’t be complaining though because all of my nutserts ended up being solid. Anyway, got fronts removed but didn’t install the new ones yet because I’m waiting for my replacement turn signal lenses; current ones are all faded. Should have them Thursday and I’ll wrap this project up.
In the meantime, I replaced 4 of 6 hard top bolts. The remaining two are soaking with some Free All, hoping they come loose for me on Thursday as well. I may also replace the tailgate handle if I have time.
Next project will be a bit bigger: cleaning the interior door panels I got to replace my cracked ones, reinforcing the prone spot with JB Weld and fiberglass tape, and installing. At the same time I’m going to swap the interior/exterior handles, door pulls, and window cranks.
Took it to work yesterday and thoroughly enjoyed my commute.
Sometimes you just gotta make do and embrace a skipped nap. Still got our tasks completed! One day he’ll love these pics
Will update again once I check a couple more things off my list!
Anyway, got fronts removed but didn’t install the new ones yet because I’m waiting for my replacement turn signal lenses; current ones are all faded. Should have them Thursday and I’ll wrap this project up.In the meantime, I replaced 4 of 6 hard top bolts. The remaining two are soaking with some Free All, hoping they come loose for me on Thursday as well. I may also replace the tailgate handle if I have time.
Next project will be a bit bigger: cleaning the interior door panels I got to replace my cracked ones, reinforcing the prone spot with JB Weld and fiberglass tape, and installing. At the same time I’m going to swap the interior/exterior handles, door pulls, and window cranks.
Took it to work yesterday and thoroughly enjoyed my commute.
Sometimes you just gotta make do and embrace a skipped nap. Still got our tasks completed! One day he’ll love these pics
Will update again once I check a couple more things off my list!
Did you ever figure out the dash paint problem? I have the same thing on my 2005 TJ… its mostly the airbag cover on passenger side, but it looks like there is black coming through the beige, like someone lightly sanded it and stopped. It doesn’t bother me that much, but I would love to find a good solution.
OP
Exact same thing here. I think I’ve decided on taping off the whole area and spraying it with SEM 5545. It’s been brought to my attention that removing that one piece requires taking apart the ENTIRE dash and I have zero interest in that project.
Especially since you have to look pretty hard to notice it.Ya, i would say that taking the dash apart is not in the books for me either. Where did you find this SEM 5545? I looked on line and it shows me every color except that one.
OP
It’s a custom color — if you do a quick forum search for “5545” you’ll find some pretty extensive info. These guys have been so helpful! Everyone seems to get it from a place out of Atlanta — Pro Vinyl. You’ll find it!
OP
Question: if I remove the X sticker on my 18 year old Jeep, will it still show from faded paint?
it was barely noticeable when i took my all original decals off but, now i can’t tell exactly where they were. i replaced the jeep decals with black ones and left the rest off. a bit of wax should help after removal.
OP
Life got a little crazy so it’s been a while since I’ve updated. Making some moves this week toward the bigger projects: wheels and suspension.
Tracked down a set of 6 ravine wheels in decent shape for 50 bucks. Picked the best 5 and dropped them off to be refinished the same day. Came out looking pretty damn good. Before and after:
Have a new set of OEM center caps on the way; these ones were in tough shape but the guy said he’d try to paint them and see how they come out. New ones will look better.
Touched base with a close family friend who runs a tire shop a couple towns away; he ordered me a set of 31” BFG A/Ts that came in today. Going to bring the Jeep and the wheels there next week to have them mounted and installed. From there, I think I’m going to take it straight to the shop and drop it off to get the suspension straightened out. Leaning toward a 1”-1.5” lift but I’ll chat with my guy and let him get eyes on it before I make any decisions. May have him do the hinge replacement and the fog install too.
Can’t wait to have this stuff ironed out so I can bang out the rest of the smaller tasks.
Tracked down a set of 6 ravine wheels in decent shape for 50 bucks. Picked the best 5 and dropped them off to be refinished the same day. Came out looking pretty damn good. Before and after:
Have a new set of OEM center caps on the way; these ones were in tough shape but the guy said he’d try to paint them and see how they come out. New ones will look better.
Touched base with a close family friend who runs a tire shop a couple towns away; he ordered me a set of 31” BFG A/Ts that came in today. Going to bring the Jeep and the wheels there next week to have them mounted and installed. From there, I think I’m going to take it straight to the shop and drop it off to get the suspension straightened out. Leaning toward a 1”-1.5” lift but I’ll chat with my guy and let him get eyes on it before I make any decisions. May have him do the hinge replacement and the fog install too.
Can’t wait to have this stuff ironed out so I can bang out the rest of the smaller tasks.
OP
One step at a time! Not looking forward to having to look at the 31s with the 3” lift for a bit but I’ll get over it
One step at a time! Not looking forward to having to look at the 31s with the 3” lift for a bit but I’ll get over it
i did a 3.5” suspension lift and 33’s and it only hurt when i let go of the $ to pay for it! i’m in the one step forward, two steps back club at the moment. front seal on transfer case has decided to start leaking. grrr!!
OP
Spent the last few days cleaning up the khaki door panels I snagged on eBay a couple months ago. They looked pretty good in the pictures but you never quite know until you see them in person, so I was a little nervous..but WOW I found set of diamonds in the rough! They were the only ones I stumbled on that didn’t have the infamous cracks. They cleaned up perfectly and look brand new.
Before installing them, I decided to reinforce the back side of the section that cracks. I’ve done a ton of reading on this topic because I was initially going to attempt to repair the cracks on my current panels, but opted to replace once I found this set.
I prepped the areas with Spray Nine degreaser and then wiped down with an alcohol pad. The alcohol left behind a powdery-looking residue, so I wiped it away with a brand new lint free rag. Next, I applied self-adhesive drywall tape. Did this for a little extra support but also to texturize the area. Finally, I applied tan JB Weld Plastic Bonder.
I closely compared my cracked doors as well as pictures of others’ cracked doors to make sure I was applying in the right spots. After closer inspection, I noticed an unreinforced seam in the plastic where it looks like the cracks happen. I applied the JB Weld along the top portion of the panel and down that seam. All of the cracks seem to happen at the seam in front of the door handle opening, but there’s another one of that same seam behind the door handle opening so I figured I may as well reinforce that section as well.
My pictures aren’t great because I was too caught up in what I was doing, but here they are nonetheless. Hopefully this trick keeps my panels intact!
This last picture shows the unsupported seam pretty well.
Before installing them, I decided to reinforce the back side of the section that cracks. I’ve done a ton of reading on this topic because I was initially going to attempt to repair the cracks on my current panels, but opted to replace once I found this set.
I prepped the areas with Spray Nine degreaser and then wiped down with an alcohol pad. The alcohol left behind a powdery-looking residue, so I wiped it away with a brand new lint free rag. Next, I applied self-adhesive drywall tape. Did this for a little extra support but also to texturize the area. Finally, I applied tan JB Weld Plastic Bonder.
I closely compared my cracked doors as well as pictures of others’ cracked doors to make sure I was applying in the right spots. After closer inspection, I noticed an unreinforced seam in the plastic where it looks like the cracks happen. I applied the JB Weld along the top portion of the panel and down that seam. All of the cracks seem to happen at the seam in front of the door handle opening, but there’s another one of that same seam behind the door handle opening so I figured I may as well reinforce that section as well.
My pictures aren’t great because I was too caught up in what I was doing, but here they are nonetheless. Hopefully this trick keeps my panels intact!
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