I'll post up more of a review later, but as of right now I can say that repairing isn't perfect.
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No welding?
I opened this thread hoping to learn how it is a windshield rusts. Imagine my disappointment to find you referring to the frame...
I just started dabbling into POR 15. That stuffs the real deal. I was blown away. You can get it in gloss or semi gloss. It loves to bond to rust after scale is removed, but i also found it to bond very well with new or clean metal. I use brake clean before applying it to new and clean material. at 26 bucks a pint on amazon, this is more than enough for small repairs. Its crazy how a little goes such a long way. You can prime it while tacky and spray a nice paint over it. I like that new rustoleum 2x acrylic paint.
T'was all in fun, my friend!Sorry to disappoint!
I picked up a few cans of the same, and will use it as needed. Like you, I have no experience with it, but figure you gotta start somewhere, so let's give it a go. Here's hoping...I'm giving the Rustoleum Rust Reformer (RRR) a try because of this study:
https://www.ncptt.nps.gov/wp-content/uploads/metal-paper-88.pdf
POR-15 is a phosphoric acid based product like the Ospho in the study. I have no experience with it, so I can't comment on how well it works. From some other reading I did on this subject, the tannic acid based products like the RRR do seem to fair well in tests, like the study above. RRR also contains an acrylic vinylidene chloride copolymer additive that helps create a nice paintable coating.
So far, I've used it on my axles, skid plates, and several other spots. I cleaned, sanded, and prepped the areas the best I could before hitting with the RRR for a few coats. It cures to a nice flat black. After that, I shoot it again with a few light coats of high-temp flat black anti-rust rattle can paint. It is very easy to work with. Will it do well? Will it hold up? Who knows, but I will find out over the years! You can pick it up locally for cheap (~$5-6 can) and it isn't as nasty to work with as POR-15. It seems like a good fit for some jobs, but perhaps not all. My guess is that, with any of these types of products, you'll still have to examine and keep after it year after year. I just hope this at least makes life easier doing it.
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My expectations are definitely limited to dealing with mild surface rust/pitting.If you're dealing with surface rust, a rust converter will have more favorable results than if you have rot.
If you're dealing with surface rust, a rust converter will have more favorable results than if you have rot.
My expectations are definitely limited to dealing with mild surface rust/pitting.
I used some of that rust reformer stuff last year on my tub pinch welds...Its rusting through already. Did not hold up for me.
@toximus Do we have a sense of how common of a problem the windshield rot is? I'm definitely pulling mine off in the Spring to take a closer look!
Yeah, I am definitely keeping my expectations low, and for surface rust only (like axles, skid plates etc). After I had everything degreased, sanded, converted (if applicable), and painted, I let it cure for a a few months over the hot summer. Then, in the late Fall, I applied Fluid Film copiously and meticulously over the entire underbody, inside the frame, and in any nook and cranny I could penetrate with the stuff. I plan to repeat this procedure in general year after year, and over time hopefully learn which techniques and products work best for select areas. We can only do what we can do, since we all know "Rust Never Sleeps"!
I don't drive mine in the winter...Hasn't seen salt in the two years I've owned her. Still rusting through. I wirewheeled all the loose stuff, cleaned and degreased, then put two coats on. For the effort I expended (not much) I think its ok. Just don't be surprised to see it come back. Granted, the only way I'm going to stop the rust on my tub is to cut it all out so...It starts in the pinch welds, and once its there, you can get rid of it unless you cut it and start over. I bought a welder, so eventually my tub is coming off, and I'll fix it. The passenger side torque box is going and the rear wheel well is perforated. I don't feel like painting it yet, so I'll just run it until it becomes an eyesore.
@toximus Do we have a sense of how common of a problem the windshield rot is? I'm definitely pulling mine off in the Spring to take a closer look!