Would you replace these flares

Good to know. Not worried about the rear clearance for my application. However I hope the front end shift isn’t bad. Thanks

The hardest part of the adjustable front track bar is cracking open your wallet to pay for it. :)
 
I just put 7 inch flares on my 99 Sahara. I like the look. 285/70/17 tires DSC_0280.webp DSC_0279.webp
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The hardest part of the adjustable front track bar is cracking open your wallet to pay for it. :)
Yeah you ain’t kidding. Was just checking them out. Regardless of the shift maybe I’ll just make a habit out of never looking at the Jeep from directly in front of it. One side or the other. LOL
 
I thought it was a bracket for the front, but you're right — it's for the rear.

However, in searching for the bracket on Quadratec's site, this is the bracket listed in the lift kit, which looks a lot different from the one in the kit. Not sure why that is.
I have the one from Quadratec. I see what you're saying though. Just for others, here's the link to the whole kit so folks can see the difference. No bend on the kit bracket, also looks painted black rather than the Zinc Coated bracket bought separately. Mine works fine, I like the zinc for corrosion control.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/...MI-qH0kNrV2QIVhjtpCh2aZwfHEAQYAyABEgI4-PD_BwE
 
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Yeah you ain’t kidding. Was just checking them out. Regardless of the shift maybe I’ll just make a habit out of never looking at the Jeep from directly in front of it. One side or the other. LOL
I have the MC adjustable front trackbar. It's only $179 and free shipping when purchased on a holiday, etc...I needed one for sure, mine shifted over 1 1/8". The MC trackbar gives me plenty of clearance at the differential

http://www.metalcloak.com/TJ-LJ-Jeep-Wrangler-Solid-Chromoly-Front-Track-Bar-p/7035.htm
 
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As for the front adjustable track bar. With a 2-2.5” suspension lift if it were your Jeep running 32s would you go ahead and get and install the quadratec $130 front bar just to be safe not just against shift but from the possibility of wobble?
 
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As for the front adjustable track bar. With a 2-2.5” suspension lift if it were your Jeep running 32s would you go ahead and get and install the quadratec $130 front bar just to be safe not just against shift but from the possibility of wobble?
DW is a symptom with several possible causes, one of which is the trackbar, usually at the axle side where the bushing may be worn out or the hole ovaled out allowing play. Probably 90% of DW is due to this problem, but there are others, and less than perfect tire balance is often the culprit in setting it off. I wouldn't buy one just to avoid possible DW. I'd do the lift and see where I was, drive it a bit, measure the shift and if all is well, all is well, otherwise, get an aftermarket TB.
 
DW is a symptom with several possible causes, one of which is the trackbar, usually at the axle side where the bushing may be worn out or the hole ovaled out allowing play. Probably 90% of DW is due to this problem, but there are others, and less than perfect tire balance is often the culprit in setting it off. I wouldn't buy one just to avoid possible DW. I'd do the lift and see where I was, drive it a bit, measure the shift and if all is well, all is well, otherwise, get an aftermarket TB.
Thanks. Appreciate the help. I swear you start reading on the internet and companies will convince you for a 2” lift you need both front and rear track bars, steering stabilizer, transfer case drop ( I agree with that one), etc turning your $900 easy to home install lift into a $1500 parts list and $700 shop install...
 
Thanks. Appreciate the help. I swear you start reading on the internet and companies will convince you for a 2” lift you need both front and rear track bars, steering stabilizer, transfer case drop ( I agree with that one), etc turning your $900 easy to home install lift into a $1500 parts list and $700 shop install...

It wasn't companies for me — it was forum members. :D

But for real: I don't think there's such a thing as a "small" project when it comes to upgrading anything.

Don't forget the drive shaft and SYE! Truth be told, I'm not sure if you'd need that for a 2" lift, though.
 
It wasn't companies for me — it was forum members. :D

But for real: I don't think there's such a thing as a "small" project when it comes to upgrading anything.

Don't forget the drive shaft and SYE! Truth be told, I'm not sure if you'd need that for a 2" lift, though.
No those should not be necessary for 2” lift. 4” maybe. If I needed those things for a 2” lift I would leave it at stock height and run 31x10.5 and call it a day. Heck I still might end up doing that.
 
Thanks. Appreciate the help. I swear you start reading on the internet and companies will convince you for a 2” lift you need both front and rear track bars, steering stabilizer, transfer case drop ( I agree with that one), etc turning your $900 easy to home install lift into a $1500 parts list and $700 shop install...
Wait on the TCase drop and see if you need it. It's an easy enough fix with some washers from the local auto parts store. Some get vibes at 2-2.5" and others don't. If you do and you drop the TCase, you can get rid of it later by adding a 1" MML ($115 Brown Dog)

And you can do the lift yourself, if you have any mechanical inclination. I did mine and it was the first thing I ever did to a car besides change the oil every once in a while.
 
Heck, @mde8965, do this, piece together the OME springs ($367), some Rancho 5000x shocks ($200), the yellow coil spring spacers (~$20-30)and the rear trackbar relocation bracket (~$20), for a grand total of ~$620, that saves you some coin. You probably don't need the steering damper, but you can get one just as good for cheap (~$25-30). All they are is a dual 50/50 valve, nothing special, though Fox thinks there's is pretty special at about $150! Then DIY and you are done for less than $700 and if you need a TCase drop do it after for $10 worth of washers. If you need a front adjustable trackbar, get the MC for $179, your still under $900. My .02c
 
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Wait on the TCase drop and see if you need it. It's an easy enough fix with some washers from the local auto parts store. Some get vibes at 2-2.5" and others don't. If you do and you drop the TCase, you can get rid of it later by adding a 1" MML ($115 Brown Dog)

And you can do the lift yourself, if you have any mechanical inclination. I did mine and it was the first thing I ever did to a car besides change the oil every once in a while.
I definitely have the mechanical skills. My big issue is time. I never have big block of free time. And hour or two here and there. My big worry with self install is getting the old coils out and the newer coils in. Guessing that’s a huge pain.

I like your ideas about piecing a kit together for cheaper too. I will definitely keep all those suggestions in mind and will check out the parts.

On the other hand I am really thinking maybe I need to save myself over $1k and a bunch of aggravation of a lift and just get the 31x10.5 tire instead of the 32s and adding some washers to the stops so I don’t rub and giving that a shot.
 
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I definitely have the mechanical skills. My big issue is time. I never have big block of free time. And hour or two here and there. My big worry with self install is getting the old coils out and the newer coils in. Guessing that’s a huge pain.

I like your ideas about piecing a kit together for cheaper too. I will definitely keep all those suggestions in mind and will check out the parts.

On the other hand I am really thinking maybe I need to save myself over $1k and a bunch of aggravation of a lift and just get the 31x10.5 tire instead of the 32s and adding some washers to the stops so I don’t rub and giving that a shot.
Sure, do whatever you want as far as the lift is concerned.

It's not that much of a pain to remove the coil springs. Do the front, then the rear.

1. Loosen lug nuts on tires
2. Jack up Jeep at the differential and put Jack stands on both sides of the frame so your wheels are in the air
3. Remove both tires
4. Release sway bars
5. Release trackbar at axle side
6. Loosen lower control arms (don't remove)
7. Put your jack on the opposite side of the axle of the spring you are removing and raise that side of the axle so the other side droops. This will remove the pressure built up in the spring and allow it to relax so you can take it out. No spring compressor needed (and they can be dangerous).
8. Put your new coil spring spacer, bumpstop and spring on
9. Move the jack to the other side and raise that side up so the axle droops on the other side. Repeat step 7.
10 put it all back together and torque everything down when you get it back on the ground.

Now go do the rear. It's pretty easy to do, just takes more time if it's your first time. If you've done it before you get it down to about 3 hours front and rear.
 
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