Wrangler TJ EV Conversion

F I L L M E I N !!!!!!!

So, not a iBooster, or, is it some flavor other then Gen1 or Gen2?

Can't wait to hear about your divorced master cylinder reservoir set up, so interesting!

- Patrick

 
I don't know about that... If I had a fan shroud my jeep would have no issues staying cool, I'm just too lazy to fix it lol. Also, there are multiple LS Swaps I know of that have no issues staying cool if they're set up right.

One of the problems describing the differences between a converted EV Jeep, and your personal experience with those issues is that so many of us have just grown accustom to this-or-that nagging issue.

We live with it, whatever the 'it' is, it's fine, fine enough.

'Yeah, it runs great, no heat problem whatsoever. But not when it's hot out, not then. Or, if it's above X and I have to sit on a trail line, then I have to keep turning it on and of so it won't overheat, but, that's normal. But other then that, no heat issues at all.'

I've heard that, it's been posted like that, hell, I'm SURE I've said it about my ICE CJ and Wranglers.

For the love of a Jeep, we forget, we live with it.

Imagine this: you never need a shroud to put around your radiator because you no longer need a radiator.

(semi stretch - you need one but it's more like a fat PC computer fan, here's what one looks like:
1778519152944.webp


Size: ~7 x 13 x 5" - and you can place it almost anywhere you want.

Coolant temps almost never get above 110 and even that is nothing at a 5/8" coolant tube - you can always touch all the coolant parts, you can't get burned, ever.

In total, I think our filled coolant system takes 1.25 gallon of G48 coolant.

The two systems are the battery coolant and inverter coolant systems. The battery modules have a ribbon that runs around the individual cells to maintain a uniform temp and dissipate the heat that's generated by using the power stored in the cell OR, and this is the greater amount of coolant, when the Jeep is charging. That's the warmest the battery coolant system gets. BUT, who cares, it's just sitting there, charging.

As for the inverter, it gets HOT but, dissipates very quickly. 3/8" tubes only. Nominal temp is 70C (~150F - everything in all EVs is in C ).

Here's what those modules look like, we use 7 of these for the Jeep builds:
1778520292902.webp

Showing the coolant end of the module.

Here's what our system looks like when plumbed inside the battery box:
1778521113131.webp


This one was an early shot of the front of the TJ Battery Box with the coolant cover still open.

We use a reverse return plumbing system to ensure a fully balance (pressure) system.

- Patrick

ps
You guys were adamant about not skipping any of the details, PLEASE let me know if this level of detail is too much.
 
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'Yeah, it runs great, no heat problem whatsoever. But not when it's hot out, not then. Or, if it's above X and I have to sit on a trail line, then I have to keep turning it on and of so it won't overheat, but, that's normal. But other then that, no heat issues at all.'

I've heard that, it's been posted like that, hell, I'm SURE I've said it about my ICE CJ and Wranglers.

For the love of a Jeep, we forget, we live with it.

If an ICE jeep is overheating, it has a problem that can be fixed. I wheel in 95+ degree heat and it runs at 230 instead of 205. I just haven't put a fan shroud on it because it isn't necessary for me. Never had to park it because of overheating either.
 
This is a cool project - I've long wished that Tesla had some "crate motor" options but until then (if ever) these projects are really fun to watch.

We use the Dana EV motors, MUCH better then a Tesla motor for this application.

And, it's Dana.

Here's a picture of a CJ full Drive Unit that's about to go into a CJ-7:
1778522849837.webp


Hope that helps the visual for you all.

- Patrick
 

Got it.

Have you considered a full iBooster instead of all that?
 
Got it.

Have you considered a full iBooster instead of all that?

I don't understand? Far as I am concerned this is an iBooster from a 2018 Honda Accord. No vacuum line needed. Runs off a 12g wire straight to the battery with a 35 soon to be 45a fuse.

I would like to pursue an Arduino based can bus interface.

The iBooster has two channels. One for pedal position for regenerative brakes on electric vehicles...you might be interested in that, I don't need it. Second channel should control pedal feel and allow full remote engagement. I watched a YouTube video with someone remotely activating the brakes with an rc controller.

I'm thinking of a small touch screen with an emergency brake button plus the ability to control the activation curve. Street and off-road modes or something like that.

Eventually I want to replace my PCM with a Haltech and integrate the iBooster, motor control and accessories like my lights and lockers into an integrated package.

-Mac
 
Wheeled with one last week that stayed cool using a stock TJ radiator.

Amazing, way to go, congratulations, wow.....

(sarcasm, I'm not afraid...)

Seriously, think for a second about you're ability to control the heat and what I'm actually saying - there is no heat to control.

Many, if not all on this and every other site will say similar things: I've got my heat issues fully controlled with this-and-that cooling system.

EV's don't have heat issues because they don't have waste heat at any level approaching any ICE setup.

Everyone has good outings with their Jeep's cooling system but, admit it, it's front and center in your Jeep working or not frontal cortex, it's always there.

Here's the test: Can you drive barefoot with your feet touching the tub floor without burning your feet?

It's that night & day of a difference.

I'd post a picture of my bare feet on the tub of the Demo CJ-7 here but, I don't want to scare the children...

- Patrick
 
Amazing, way to go, congratulations, wow.....

(sarcasm, I'm not afraid...)

Seriously, think for a second about you're ability to control the heat and what I'm actually saying - there is no heat to control.

Many, if not all on this and every other site will say similar things: I've got my heat issues fully controlled with this-and-that cooling system.

EV's don't have heat issues because they don't have waste heat at any level approaching any ICE setup.

Everyone has good outings with their Jeep's cooling system but, admit it, it's front and center in your Jeep working or not frontal cortex, it's always there.

Here's the test: Can you drive barefoot with your feet touching the tub floor without burning your feet?

It's that night & day of a difference.

I'd post a picture of my bare feet on the tub of the Demo CJ-7 here but, I don't want to scare the children...

- Patrick

Wasn't my jeep so you'd have to ask the owner. But, it was out there every day with no issues.

Wheeling barefoot hasn't been something I'd think about.
 
I don't understand? Far as I am concerned this is an iBooster from a 2018 Honda Accord. No vacuum line needed. Runs off a 12g wire straight to the battery with a 35 soon to be 45a fuse.

I would like to pursue an Arduino based can bus interface.

The iBooster has two channels. One for pedal position for regenerative brakes on electric vehicles...you might be interested in that, I don't need it. Second channel should control pedal feel and allow full remote engagement. I watched a YouTube video with someone remotely activating the brakes with an rc controller.

I'm thinking of a small touch screen with an emergency brake button plus the ability to control the activation curve. Street and off-road modes or something like that.

Eventually I want to replace my PCM with a Haltech and integrate the iBooster, motor control and accessories like my lights and lockers into an integrated package.

-Mac

GOT IT, now I understand.

So, you think that being able to interact with the CAN side can give you more braking control. Got it.

Yes, I saw his video with the remote, but, we, the EV builders, can't find that 'kid' and haven't for some time. I tried to buy one of his kits about a year ago to test but can't find it anywhere.

Have you dipped your toe into the EVCreate stuff yet, Lars is the guy the does it, it's here (link is to the iBooster page but he's been busy): https://www.evcreate.com/installing-the-ibooster/. There's a bunch on there about a universal CAN control project that is slogging along.

To be honest with you, there's a lot about the iBooster that I haven't' fully explored yet since it does exactly what we want in limp mode. I'm sure that'll change at some point but, that's what I got for now.

- Patrick
 
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Boy howdey, that'll tighten up the sack.

Nice, yes, the iBooster should be more then enough for this weight vehicle. I'll check his link to see if he shows anything else under the hood.

- Patrick

Both the TJ booster and the iBooster are 1". Essentially equivalent in volume displacement.

-Mac
 
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saw it was RHD and wept, what an amazing read this thread has been. thank you for all the hard work and responses
View attachment 701878

Yes, and not a very good conversion to RHD, it's been a pain.

Thanks for the compliments.

We are being forced to move shops, it's killing me....

Deep breaths, moving on, back to work.

- Patrick
 
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I’m assuming these are for the city of LA, I’m surprised they would still have 20 year old vehicles. I don’t think any cities around here operate anything of that vintage. Crown Vic’s are long gone.

I’m not trying to play, I really like what you’re doing and would love to understand why a city, again I’m assuming that these are the city vehicles, would want to invest the money to retrofit electric vs replace them with modern electric vehicles.

What are these TJ’s used for?

Sorry for the delay in replying, they are used to spray for mosquitos in the gutters during the summer months here in LA. You know, standing water and stuff.

They are RHD, for that purpose. They have a 40 gal tank in the back. Occasionally they are needed in the LA river to break up debris from all the rain we get (none).

The age thing is such an interesting subject - what we've discovered is the drive train can run for almost forever with no incidents and low maintenance.

The issues is, and has always been what's in the engine bay - just that.

Removing that and all it's fuel related parts has brought the maintenance down to virtually zero. And since we bolt directly to the transmission with no clutch (yes, full use of transmission and transfer case - clutchless shifting, magic at it's best), we've reduced the approximately 218 moving parts in a stock Jeep engine bay down to just 1 - the motor itself.

- Patrick
 
Guessing mail delivery, or parks and rec. Interesting choice to keep a manual, I would've thought there was even less manual drivers than TJ's in LA lol

Again, sorry for the delay in replying, yes, a service Jeep to spray for mosquitoes and some light 'off-roading' in the LA rivers.

For the automatic side of it, we use a TorqueTrends reduction unit.

- Patrick
 
What's going to happen with all the old engines, parts and running gear?

The entire running gear is retained and used in driving, like normal.

The motors and such are removed by a garage we work with that knows how we like our de-ICED'd Jeeps. If the motor or any of the other ICE specific parts can be resold, we pass that directly along to the customer. Used Jeep parts are not part of our business plan.

- Patrick
 
Well, I posted that gif because I thought you would've got roasted alive by the members - only a little bit glad to see that wasn't the case😉

Have you heard of Edison motors?

How funny, yes, I've noticed the thaw from accusing me of being gang raped by Joe Biden while hugging a tree to either mild hatred or outright and gueunin interest in our efforts to offer an alternative motor swap for those that want it.

Less hated is nice.

- Patrick
 
I would not want to buy a used engine off a parking enforcement vehicle that’s 20 years old haha

You'd be way wrong on that account - parking enforcement drives less then 60 miles a day and almost always on surface streets and slowly. Also, all fleet Jeeps we've run into all have fixed maintenance schedule like rebuilding the motors every 4 years regardless of any issues.

No, I think buying a used city Jeep ICE motor would be a good bet, it's still a shit motor but it's been destroyed a bit less by design.

But, then again, think EV swap...

- Patrick