Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
I *think* you reuse one and then also use the one you bought. Hopefully someone can confirm.
ZJ Tie Rod Conversion
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
I *think* you reuse one and then also use the one you bought. Hopefully someone can confirm.
If you order the kit, the same one I ordered. You wouldn't need anything more.
What you see in the kit photo, you'll get it.
The kit comes with two sleeves for both tie rod and the other one that attaches to the steering.
Clinton77
New Member
Looks like other pics show the 2 sleeves but Both screw in on what I have now so I definitely need a 2nd one
That pic is of a stock Tie rod, did you order the ZJ bar? If so it it is a different assembly than stock and resembles the stock Draglink in that the shaft has one joint formed to the shaft and the other attaches to the shaft via the adjusting sleeve and one of the joints.
Does anyone know the Mopar part numbers for the ZJ tie rod conversion? I'm questioning recent Moog QC so I may opt for NOS mopar parts instead. Sorry if I may have missed it somewhere in the 12 pages.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Just received my Moog products Saturday and have started to clean/degrease and paint. So far, very pleased with everything - it all seems to be decent quality, nothing missing or broken. I went through Amazon for my order and used Moog for everything except the steering stabilizer (Monroe). I'm painting with Krylon fusion.
Not sure when I'll have the time to sit down and do the actual install but plan is for sometime in the next couple of weeks. IF YOU ARE THINKING ABOUT DOING THIS YOURSELF AND ARE A RELATIVE NEWCOMER LIKE ME - I highly recommend you watch the below video. It takes you through the entire process step by step and also gives you the "why" along the way.
Not sure when I'll have the time to sit down and do the actual install but plan is for sometime in the next couple of weeks. IF YOU ARE THINKING ABOUT DOING THIS YOURSELF AND ARE A RELATIVE NEWCOMER LIKE ME - I highly recommend you watch the below video. It takes you through the entire process step by step and also gives you the "why" along the way.
Red looks amazing!
Waiting to see more and your experience after having it for a test drive.
And I do love the video,
Cheers on that.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Searched the thread and didn't see specifics. I'm trying to confirm the minimum tools required to do this job in my driveway. I also want to replace the track bar at the same time. Here's what I have so far:
Full basic 3/8" drive ratchet/socket set. (shallow, don't own any deep yet)
Breaker bar
Needle nose for cotter pins
Picking up both 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches from Harbor Freight sale today
A couple 1/2" and 3/8" extensions, need to check actual length.
Rubber mallet and hammers
I know I probably need a pickle fork or a tie rod separator for the sake of convenience. I plan to eventually invest in a floor jack and jack stands but I was hoping to hold off until sometime after this job. How necessary are they or how much more convenient is it?
Lastly, grease gun. Seen many threads on this and it seems like it doesn't matter too much which grease you use. How about a budget friendly gun that works with those tiny zerk fittings? I'm okay with paying a bit more if there's a reason to (i.e. more functionality)
Anything else I should/must have?
Full basic 3/8" drive ratchet/socket set. (shallow, don't own any deep yet)
Breaker bar
Needle nose for cotter pins
Picking up both 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches from Harbor Freight sale today
A couple 1/2" and 3/8" extensions, need to check actual length.
Rubber mallet and hammers
I know I probably need a pickle fork or a tie rod separator for the sake of convenience. I plan to eventually invest in a floor jack and jack stands but I was hoping to hold off until sometime after this job. How necessary are they or how much more convenient is it?
Lastly, grease gun. Seen many threads on this and it seems like it doesn't matter too much which grease you use. How about a budget friendly gun that works with those tiny zerk fittings? I'm okay with paying a bit more if there's a reason to (i.e. more functionality)
Anything else I should/must have?
Pickle fork is not needed. A 16 or 24 oz ball peen does great, (bigger is better) just don't hit the threads.
I would also recommend you get a 1/2" socket set.
I would also recommend you get a 1/2" socket set.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Yeah, that was really the only other thing I was thinking I'd need in the near term. Shallow yeah? Besides removing wheels, I don't know that I'm doing anything right now requiring deep sockets.
Hopefully the HF torque wrenches do a decent job. I read good feedback on this forum and other reviews regarding their use for basic jobs. Went with their starter grease gun too and I think it comes out of the box ready to use on the Moog zerks.
Thanks for the feedback
TH99TJ
TJ Enthusiast
Soooo for those that are on a Broke poor mans budget. Taking the stock tie rod off of the axle finding a piece of black pipe that will fit over the tie rod (after removing at least one ball joint) then weld it around the ends. Cut the pipe as long as possible to support the tie rod as far out and close to the rod ends as possible. Also drilling and plug welding along the length will theoretically add more strength. It is cheap and it works, yes you can bend the new rod/pipe combo but its significantly stronger then stock and free if you don't have to pay for the pipe or welding. The stock tie rods can be straightened with a hammer, rock, log etc. before inserting it into the pipe. I found that wrapping bailing wire around the ends of the tie rod to center it in the pipe makes it look a little nicer after welding(I have not found a pipe that fits snug, there is a gap). Many people have been fooled into thinking I spent money on aftermarket heavy stuff (not yet). My appologies if everybody already knows about this cheap fix.
I found that leaving the castle nut threaded on by only a couple threads offers great protection from a wayward hammer strike. Also, if it's a piece that gets replaced (tie rod end, for example), I don't worry about the threads on it, as long as I'm sure I'm going to be successful in removing it, and not have to reuse it until I can get it removed.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Good points leaving the nut slightly on also keeps the rod from just droping on the floor unexpectedly.
OK,
I have another cheap / poor Man's temporary fix for the tie rod / drag links.
As someone had previously posted, you can slide a tube over the rod after disassembling one end and weld that to the rod. I'm sure that would work very well. But for a quicker easier and maybe cheaper fix, you can get somewhat the same end results by laying two pieces of angle iron over the tie rod / drag link and weld those to the outside of it. That will add a lot of strength to it and you do not have to disassemble or remove the rods to do it. No it is not the end all fix all by any means, but it does work and adds a lot of strength to those rods. I know this because out of necessity I had to do this many years ago on an International Scout that I was building and heavier aftermarket rods at that time we're not available.
The other advantage of this is you can carry a couple of pieces of angle iron with you out on the trail and you can repair bent or broken rods out on the trail by clamping or welding the angle iron on to the rods and at the very least get you back off the trail, or maybe even home.
I hope this little cross section sketch will help explain how this works.
Again if you were out on the trail and do not have access to an onboard welder you could also carry clamps to clamp the angle iron over the rod for a temporary fix.
Obviously ideally you will want to stitch weld the pieces on as to not overheat and warp the rod.
I have another cheap / poor Man's temporary fix for the tie rod / drag links.
As someone had previously posted, you can slide a tube over the rod after disassembling one end and weld that to the rod. I'm sure that would work very well. But for a quicker easier and maybe cheaper fix, you can get somewhat the same end results by laying two pieces of angle iron over the tie rod / drag link and weld those to the outside of it. That will add a lot of strength to it and you do not have to disassemble or remove the rods to do it. No it is not the end all fix all by any means, but it does work and adds a lot of strength to those rods. I know this because out of necessity I had to do this many years ago on an International Scout that I was building and heavier aftermarket rods at that time we're not available.
The other advantage of this is you can carry a couple of pieces of angle iron with you out on the trail and you can repair bent or broken rods out on the trail by clamping or welding the angle iron on to the rods and at the very least get you back off the trail, or maybe even home.
I hope this little cross section sketch will help explain how this works.
Again if you were out on the trail and do not have access to an onboard welder you could also carry clamps to clamp the angle iron over the rod for a temporary fix.
Obviously ideally you will want to stitch weld the pieces on as to not overheat and warp the rod.
You will damage threads if you hit the top of the bare stud. It cannot handle impact loads at all. If you do 5 or 10 you might get lucky. More and you will destroy threads. The old trick is to flip the nut and screw it flush. It distributes the load evenly on a flat nut surface, the threads and the top of the stud. It also does not screw up the castle.
These welded solutions are fun but the ZJ rod is not mild steel. These are a fraction of the strength of the real deal. If you are going to cheap out just go on rockauto and get the ultra-power generic version. It will be much much stronger than some welded mild steel job made of black pipe or angle iron.
This is also true, but the main function / use of the angle iron patch is mainly for a quick and easy temporary upgrade to the stock flimsy TJ rods in a matter of minutes completely tooless if you have access to a welder, not the ZJ parts which need nothing else added to those.
Again, I know this is somewhat makeshift but it does work because I used this process as I said years ago on an application where heavier-duty parts were not available.
It is not meant to be a permanent replacement for the upgraded stronger parts.