ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

Thanks for the info. I did ask if he had the baggies, and he does. I also asked if he had the reciept from where he got the parts. Said it was from Amazon and sent a screen shot of the order. Here is the link to the CL ad. Is there anything I should look for that would give away it is not a Moog part? is the Ultra power hollow like the stock part?

Thanks again for all of your help.
Looks legit
15616079895761687357864.jpg

The brass seal will be stamped MOOG
 
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So I did the ZJ tie rod upgrade this weekend on my 2002 TJ and while I was at it, I also replaced the drag link bar (with a new standard TJ one) and replaced the driver's side tie rod end with a Moog ES3096L (I had recently replaced the pitman arm tie rod end, so I left it alone...but it's not a Moog ES3096L). On the driver's side tie rod end, I ran into something strange. When I was torquing the tie rod end down to the recommended 55ft pounds, the castellated nut went way below the hole for the carter pin...and my torque wrench never even clicked?!?!

Anyone run into this before? A part of me believes my torque wrench failed me on that one for some reason. Is it possible that I've damaged something? I'm thinking about ordering another ES3096L to see if maybe I just got a bad one where the hole for the carter pin was drilled too high on the bolt. Any other thoughts?

TIA, Roger
 
Pro trip; Don't get complacent and drive into a root, assume it was just a root, drive harder to get over said root, then find out it was actually a stump right on the adjustment sleeve....

I can confirm the sleeve is the weak link when driving into a stump right here.
ZJ.PNG

(thanks @Steven Preyer for the picture)

The tie rod was bent all the way back into the spring seat which prevented steering.
Luckily it didn't damage any threads, and the tie rod is still nice and straight, so I just loosened it rotated the sleeve out and came out with more clearance (and toe in) than when I started.

Still glad I had this over the weency stock one!
 
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Probably a dumb question, but is it best to install/torque before greasing everything up - or is that not relevant and the bolt taper is what dictates how it torques in?
 
Probably a dumb question, but is it best to install/torque before greasing everything up - or is that not relevant and the bolt taper is what dictates how it torques in?
I would never put grease or anti-seize on a taper fitting. It should be clean metal in my opinion when it is installed and torqued down.
 
Quick question. Awhile back I did the ZJ upgrade. Everything went great and has been since.

I noticed that the Tie Rod is not level to the axle like I’ve seen in some pictures. The driver side is lower than the passenger side. Is this normal?

I’ll try to get a picture if needed later on today.
 
Makes sense. I do have a 2.5” suspension lift and an awful 2.5” body lift from PO.

Figured it had to do something with the lifts.

Thanks!
 
Quick question. Awhile back I did the ZJ upgrade. Everything went great and has been since.

I noticed that the Tie Rod is not level to the axle like I’ve seen in some pictures. The driver side is lower than the passenger side. Is this normal?

I’ll try to get a picture if needed later on today.
Yes plz post a pic.
 
I did the conversion along with the drag link and a new track bar. While I was there, I also put new carrier bearings in the diff and a new wheel bearing/hub to replace a newer one that sounded bad. Radical improvement to steering and handling. It is like driving a different Jeep. Night and day improvement and the tie rods I replaced were not sloppy. A worthy upgrade. Oh, I also replaced the power steering pump and hoses, just as a maintenance item.