ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

06TJ35's

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I'm about to do this, and am still confused about this (sorry to beat the dead horse!).

I believe that the Moog ES3095R is the replacement passenger side tie rod end if you're re-using your TJ drag link? It's my understanding that the ZJ drag link's damper mount hole is at a different angle and can lead to interference with some aftermarket track bars (though some have no issues with that).

Since the ZJ drag link is the same strength as the TJ one, why not re-use it and just replace both tie rod ends and save the extra cash?
From my post above “edit: Now I don’t know where part number 3095r was first mentioned but that’s a sock replacement tie rod end. Since we are doing the “ZJ tie rod end conversion” we upgrade the tie rod end with a ZJ one.”

The drag link tie rod end is being upgraded to a Zj TRE part number es3096l.

You are re using the stock TJ drag link when doing the Zj tre conversion.
 

RMETeeJay

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Thank you. So you went with the ZJ drag link so that you were able to use the beefier ES3096L TRE instead of the stock ES3095R TRE on the TJ drag link?

If that's correct, did the different angle of the damper cause any interference for you?
 

RMETeeJay

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Understood, thank you. I now have the following on my parts list for a complete refresh while retaining the stock drag link:

1 Moog DS1312 Tie Rod End
3 Moog ES3096L Tie Rod Ends
2 Moog ES2079S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeves
1 Monroe SC2928 Magnum Steering Damper

This will be my first tie rod experience. I've seen some recommend a pickle fork, others recommend a ball joint separator. What works well for everyone for getting them out? Should I just grab something from HF, or invest more $ for the tool(s)?
 

bobthetj03

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Understood, thank you. I now have the following on my parts list for a complete refresh while retaining the stock drag link:

1 Moog DS1312 Tie Rod End
3 Moog ES3096L Tie Rod Ends
2 Moog ES2079S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeves
1 Monroe SC2928 Magnum Steering Damper

This will be my first tie rod experience. I've seen some recommend a pickle fork, others recommend a ball joint separator. What works well for everyone for getting them out? Should I just grab something from HF, or invest more $ for the tool(s)?
The other end of the TJ drag link is a DS1430. You only need two ES3096L's. So,

1. Moog DS1312
2. Moog ES3096L
2. Moog ES2079S
1. Moog DS1430
1. Monroe SC2928
 

RMETeeJay

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Accoring to @06TJ35's comment above, I can install the beefier ES3096L TRE on to the passenger side of the stock drag link, so I shouldn't need the DS1430 (which is the TJ drag link with an attached ES3095R TRE).
 

06TJ35's

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Accoring to @06TJ35's comment above, I can install the beefier ES3096L TRE on to the passenger side of the stock drag link, so I shouldn't need the DS1430 (which is the TJ drag link with an attached ES3095R TRE).
You only need DS1430 if you are looking to replace the drag link. Which it doesn’t hurt to do. Ds1238 is a XJ drag link which is the same as Ds1430. The XJ drag link is $30 cheaper.
 

RMETeeJay

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OK, I think I realize where my confusion is, but please correct me if I'm wrong on any of this:

The TJ's drag link passenger-side TRE is not replaceable because it's cast in. So if you want to replace that TRE for a full refresh, you have to replace the entire drag link (TJ DS1430 or XJ DS1238 for less $).

Optionally, some have used the ZJ drag link (DS1310) instead. Advantages are that the passenger-side TRE is replaceable and a bit beefier. Disadvantages are that the different damper mount hole angle may cause interference with the track bar and I read this in an Amazon review:

Due to this part being longer than the stock part, I am unable to center my steering wheel as the threaded portion of this draglink bottoms out against the threaded rod end inside the adjustment sleeve. Also, this draglink puts my aftermarket heavy duty steering stabilizer at a less than optimal angle which rubs it against the draglink.
 
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06TJ35's

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OK, I think I realize where my confusion is, but please correct me if I'm wrong on any of this:

The TJ's drag link passenger-side TRE is not replaceable because it's cast in. So if you want to replace that TRE for a full refresh, you have to replace the entire drag link (TJ DS1430 or XJ DS1230 for less $).
Correct. If you don’t replace the drag link with Tj or XJ drag link that would be the weak link since the other TRE’s will be new.
 

Not_Invented_Here_

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The picture I provided is the correct list of parts. Some people re-use their terminal or adjuster sleeve (ES2079s) , but for $13 it's not worth the hassle. Just make sure you coat them with anti-sieze during the install. This makes adjusting them later super easy.
I had to center my steering wheel with the existing sleeve after I installed the new front track bar. It took a bit to get everything loose and moving - I had already ordered two sleeves and was happy I did after finishing with the wheel. No reason not to for the price, unless you're trying to really work within a budget.
 

Not_Invented_Here_

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No reason not to if you’re doing a complete refresh. On my LJ, all of the tie rod ends were either loose or spewing grease, and one of my adjusters sleeves was frozen up. I went ahead and bit the bullet and replaced all the parts, including the adjusters and that TRE you mentioned. I just pulled it apart in one piece, matched the measurements to my new one to get it close, and assembled all fresh parts.
Did you eyeball measure and get as close as possible so you could drive to get an alignment? Or did you DIY in the driveway? Sort of debating what to do once everything is bolted back up... I wouldn't mind paying for an alignment just this go around as we have a reputable local shop that specializes in Jeeps and a second eye to check everything wouldn't hurt...
 

ErikOffroad

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Did you eyeball measure and get as close as possible so you could drive to get an alignment? Or did you DIY in the driveway? Sort of debating what to do once everything is bolted back up... I wouldn't mind paying for an alignment just this go around as we have a reputable local shop that specializes in Jeeps and a second eye to check everything wouldn't hurt...
We have a very good Wright up on this forum for doing a alignment that can get the job done dead on.
Its really simple. There’s only 2 things that you can adjust. One adjustment does the toe angle, the other is used to center the steering wheel.
That being said a shop can do a alignment for u only 80 bucks so it’s up to u
 

Not_Invented_Here_

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We have a very good Wright up on this forum for doing a alignment that can get the job done dead on.
Its really simple. There’s only 2 things that you can adjust. One adjustment does the toe angle, the other is used to center the steering wheel.
That being said a shop can do a alignment for u only 80 bucks so it’s up to u
Ha yeah, it looks suspiciously easy and no, I'm not crazy about paying a shop that much to do something that seems so straightforward. I like to have my work checked the first time I do anything though and I'm rationalizing that they could do that while performing the alignment.

Oh and dealer wanted $125 to do it. I said thanks and promptly hung up ha.
 

jwilson2899

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Did you eyeball measure and get as close as possible so you could drive to get an alignment? Or did you DIY in the driveway? Sort of debating what to do once everything is bolted back up... I wouldn't mind paying for an alignment just this go around as we have a reputable local shop that specializes in Jeeps and a second eye to check everything wouldn't hurt...
I wasn’t confident in my alignment abilities myself, and I was putting on the lift at the same time, so I measured it close as I could and then took it to the shop for an alignment. It’s a close friend of mine and I get his super discount rate, so a few bucks to make sure it was properly set was worth it to me.
 
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