I have all of the parts for the ZJ upgrade. Waiting on fair weather with no wind to paint them and then get them installed. I plan on doing the driveway alignment then go to the tire shop get the alignment done and tires and wheels balanced.
ZJ Tie Rod Conversion
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
I found the u-joints in the axle shafts to be more difficult than those on the front driveshaft. What really helped for me was purchasing a bench vise. I had a lot of difficulty holding the axle shaft while pressing in the u-joints. By having the vice hold it, I could work on it easier. The clips holding in the u-joint caps was a bit frustrating, but penetrating oil helped. A ChrisFix video helped me when I did the driveshaft u-joints, even though the clips were a different type. I am fortunate though as living in California with a TJ from CA meant that I didn't have any rust issues to deal with.
The ball joints went better than I expected and used this video to figure that out.
I had purchased the ball joint press kit as well as the sleeves for our Jeep off of amazon and it worked well. The sleeves for pressing in the ball joints at the proper angle helped, but spending the $85 for them for just this project kinda sucked. I'm sure I will find another use for them though in the future.
The ball joints went better than I expected and used this video to figure that out.
It seemed odd to me that the boot would go on the outside because I thought grease would go everywhere! Thank you for you insight.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Yeah this is the exact video I've been watching too, this guy is fantastic.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
I'm 95% of the way done with this but am stuck on one small piece - I cannot for the life of me get the final grease zerk to thread into the TRE at the passenger side. It just won't catch - should I just go get another one? It came with the Moog parts I ordered.
Also having trouble getting the other zerks to accept grease but I always have that problem, my gun is shitty and slippery as all heck so it's a chore to force the coupler onto the zerk with sufficient pressure that it actually feeds the grease.
All in all, looks pretty good and was a fairly straightforward install. I'm sure my measurements are WAY off and the steering wheel is a bit crooked but I'm getting an alignment after some other suspension work so should be OK. Won't matter if I can't get this zerk tho..
Also having trouble getting the other zerks to accept grease but I always have that problem, my gun is shitty and slippery as all heck so it's a chore to force the coupler onto the zerk with sufficient pressure that it actually feeds the grease.
All in all, looks pretty good and was a fairly straightforward install. I'm sure my measurements are WAY off and the steering wheel is a bit crooked but I'm getting an alignment after some other suspension work so should be OK. Won't matter if I can't get this zerk tho..
Just wrapped mine up yesterday. I had a couple of the zerks go in wonky at first but was able to get them in eventually. If the threads on the zerk look OK and the plate it threads into isn't bent, keep trying. Try turning the zerk counter-clockwise until you can feel its thread drop in to the plate. On a couple of mine, they threaded in at a slight angle at first and then they leveled out once I started wrenching them in.
Might want to invest in a better gun or pick up a different coupler. My coupler locks on to the zerk which makes things much easier.
Might want to invest in a better gun or pick up a different coupler. My coupler locks on to the zerk which makes things much easier.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Yeah I likewise had one go in awkward - I'll try that. Ha, I also do the reverse thread trick by default now, one of the handiest simple things I ever learned. I'm with you on the gun, I've about had it - wish I had a pneumatic
You may have to lightly tap the zerk and then start turning it in. This grease gun works well for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SVGHNPV/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SVGHNPV/?tag=wranglerorg-20
X2 I had the same issue...Regarding the zerks not taking grease, when I have had that happen i use and awl and apply a little pressure to the ball to compress the spring and that usually gets the things working as they should.
I have a similar one that I picked up at HF for about $20. Works great! So much better than the lever type.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
If I'm unable to get it threaded in, is the existing grease that it shipped with enough to drive it a few miles to the shop where I'm already going anyway? Thanks for the suggestions and replies.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
It worked out fine. I just stopped by O'reilly's and picked up a pack of assorted fittings. Got one of those on right away, greased it and dropped it off at shop for upper control arms and alignment. Came out pretty well.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
So I've been driving it for a couple days now - this is with the ZJ steering, new upper control arms (stock Crown replacements) and a fresh alignment. It's mostly FANTASTIC and definitely an upgrade over the worn out components I replaced.
I still have the same bit of "slop" in my steering that I already had previously but the only issue I've noticed is that my wheel doesn't return to center on its own very well. Most of the suggestions I've read have to do with issues caused by a lift (caster angle) or worn TRE's which I obviously don't have.
For a stock suspension TJ with fresh parts, is there something specific that would cause this?
I still have the same bit of "slop" in my steering that I already had previously but the only issue I've noticed is that my wheel doesn't return to center on its own very well. Most of the suggestions I've read have to do with issues caused by a lift (caster angle) or worn TRE's which I obviously don't have.
For a stock suspension TJ with fresh parts, is there something specific that would cause this?
I'd double check the toe. It can cause the steering to wander if it's neutral or toe-out. It should be slightly toe-in. It's easy to check and one of the only things you can easily adjust.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Even fresh off an alignment from the shop? Not experiencing wander really, or any other issues at all. It drives straight as can be and I can steer with my pinky as Chris likes to say. Wheel just doesn't go back well on its own.
I was wondering it had anything to do with the previous "slop" I had - I understand slop to mean looseness, like I can turn the wheel but I have to maybe turn it to 5 or 6 o clock whereas in my wife's newer '15 Cherokee, she would only turn it to 3-4 o clock to make the same turn.
Especially from the shop, I don't trust too many. Obviously there are other things more likely to cause this but toe can do it and it's easy to check.
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Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Welp, guess I should just learn to do it finally on my own. It was the Jeep dealership so I sure as heck hope they got it right but mistakes happen as we all know. I'll start with that and see if I find anything before I look for other stuff.,
It's not really a problem I guess and doesn't necessarily negatively impact my driving but if something is in fact wrong, would rather catch it now.
Alignment would be my first suspicion as well, and like pagrey said "Especially from the shop, I don't trust to many" I don't trust the guys who balance tires as well. Checking the toe in in not hard. When you dig in to it, for grins check all four tires for proper pressure. Last time I had mine aired up by a shop (after wheeling), I told the guy 25lbs in each. They ranged from 30-38lbs. Decades ago I worked at a reputable garage in Montpelier Vermont. The owner made a business decision NOT to do alignments. He said, he is too fussy and to do it correctly would take more time than most people want to pay for. He said he would have to charge double or triple the average going rate in town and not enough customers would understand the difference.