Sounds good. I plan on trying the DIY alignment, but may let tire shop do one if I don't get it right. I think they'll take the diagnostic fee off, so cost won't be too high. The DIY with aluminum bars clamped to the rotor, then take front/back measurements seems pretty straight forward and I'll likely have the wheels off to get tie rods off the spindles.I say replace it all at once. Therefore if you need a pro alignment it gets done once. Also when buying all new there is no reusing or remove of damper stud. My damper came with all new hardware. Much easier.
ZJ Tie Rod Conversion
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Two ends and two adjusting sleeves. Ball joints and wheel bearings next
I just replaced everything yesterday.
My mistake was not examining what I currently had underneath. The dealership where I originally bought my TJ, installed the front end parts after I complained of wobble, and I assumed it was stock parts. The old components are huge in diameter, as well as heavy , and I think might have been currie........ After detecting a slight wobble, I decided to do the upgrade.
I ordered the Moog parts described in the first post. And yesterday found I was short two sleeves and a tire rod end......my fault for forgetting what I had under there, and not examining before ripping out the old. I had to go with Napa parts because they were down the street and I needed the stuff right away. They don't carry Moog.
Everything went in great, I had the old setup on a table still complete, and matched the new parts to it, along with measurements. I also added grease to the new parts as I assembled it on the table. Easy to get to, less messy.
Install was easy, but I did notice that the stabilizer bolt/pin was now in an angle as it attached to the drag link, due to the shape of the drag link. No big deal, it's an easy sort-out.
I used the DIY alignment system, since the tires were already off. Matching up the new components to the old prior to install really paid off, because the toe-in adjustments were minimal.
The TJ tracks great, completely straight on the road, no pull, no drift, solid and straight under braking. All I have to do now is finalize my steering wheel position, it's slightly off, just like me, but it's driving me nuts......I want my jeep letters straight
Give the DIY alignment a shot, since your tires will be off, it's easy and definitely cost saving.
Ray
I use a lot of Napa parts. I have no issues. Typically if you give Napa a Spicer, Moog or other part number the Napa equivalent is actually the same quality. ie: i-joints, ball joints, wheel bearings and steering components.I just replaced everything yesterday.
My mistake was not examining what I currently had underneath. The dealership where I originally bought my TJ, installed the front end parts after I complained of wobble, and I assumed it was stock parts. The old components are huge in diameter, as well as heavy , and I think might have been currie........ After detecting a slight wobble, I decided to do the upgrade.
I ordered the Moog parts described in the first post. And yesterday found I was short two sleeves and a tire rod end......my fault for forgetting what I had under there, and not examining before ripping out the old. I had to go with Napa parts because they were down the street and I needed the stuff right away. They don't carry Moog.
Everything went in great, I had the old setup on a table still complete, and matched the new parts to it, along with measurements. I also added grease to the new parts as I assembled it on the table. Easy to get to, less messy.
Install was easy, but I did notice that the stabilizer bolt/pin was now in an angle as it attached to the drag link, due to the shape of the drag link. No big deal, it's an easy sort-out.
I used the DIY alignment system, since the tires were already off. Matching up the new components to the old prior to install really paid off, because the toe-in adjustments were minimal.
The TJ tracks great, completely straight on the road, no pull, no drift, solid and straight under braking. All I have to do now is finalize my steering wheel position, it's slightly off, just like me, but it's driving me nuts......I want my jeep letters straight
Give the DIY alignment a shot, since your tires will be off, it's easy and definitely cost saving.
Ray
And whenever possible buy American made, or at least from a US supplier.
Thanks, aware of that, Moog is just a personal pref for me, has been for years. American made and/or American supplier.......Absolutely !
Did mine last weekend. 150k miles on what I believe is original parts.
One word of warning. If you try putting castle nut back on upside down to hammer it out, take note of how much resistance you feel putting it on. I had an issue where I broke the tie rod end loose and then had a hell of a time getting nut back off. Because once it was loose the shaft just spun. I used a pickle fork on the pitman arm end and that worked fine.
I aligned it a while back after installing a lift, so I just carefully measured the outside edge to edge of the tire tread at the front and matched that with the new tie rod. Steers and tracks great now.
One word of warning. If you try putting castle nut back on upside down to hammer it out, take note of how much resistance you feel putting it on. I had an issue where I broke the tie rod end loose and then had a hell of a time getting nut back off. Because once it was loose the shaft just spun. I used a pickle fork on the pitman arm end and that worked fine.
I aligned it a while back after installing a lift, so I just carefully measured the outside edge to edge of the tire tread at the front and matched that with the new tie rod. Steers and tracks great now.
Finished mine up today. Seems good, i took for a few quick spins around the block trying to get steering wheel straight. I used the DIY alignment and seems great. Now to have daughter take for drive and see her thoughts. Thanks for the advice and this thread.
BeaverTJ
New Member
Thanks for all 24 pages of information! Planning on completing this project this week with the Crown Heavy Duty Steering Kit. Does anyone have a good video tutorial on how to install? It’s easier for me to understand when watching rather than reading.
There might be, sorry i don't know of one, but it's incredibly easy. I'm same way as you. My suggestion is to crawl under and look at how it connects to the chasis, ie frame spindles, etc, and unbolt from those areas. Once it's out put the new in and the old parts will still be hooked up to look at.
BeaverTJ
New Member
I’ve managed to find some decent videos (for both the crown heavy duty kit and the moog zj upgrade) that are linked below. Hopefully this will help whoever else needs it.
Drag Link to Pitman Arm Nut - 81 Nm / 60 ft.lbs.
Drag Link to Knuckle Nut - 47 Nm / 35 ft.lbs.
Drag Link Clamp Bolts - 49 Nm / 36 ft.lbs.
Tie Rod Clamp Bolts - 49 Nm / 35 ft.lbs
Tie Rod Knuckle - 47 Nm / 35 ft.lbs
Tie Rod to Drag Link - 75 Nm / 55 ft.lbs.
so the stock torque spec for a TJ is 55 ft lbs for the tie rod ends.
the ZJ steering upgrade with moog parts i am really only torquing to 35 ft lbs?
Drag Link to Knuckle Nut - 47 Nm / 35 ft.lbs.
Drag Link Clamp Bolts - 49 Nm / 36 ft.lbs.
Tie Rod Clamp Bolts - 49 Nm / 35 ft.lbs
Tie Rod Knuckle - 47 Nm / 35 ft.lbs
Tie Rod to Drag Link - 75 Nm / 55 ft.lbs.
so the stock torque spec for a TJ is 55 ft lbs for the tie rod ends.
the ZJ steering upgrade with moog parts i am really only torquing to 35 ft lbs?
Allot of us don't use torque spec and simply torque to what seems appropriate for the fastener. I'd do that or use the higher spec of the two but obviously it's your call. You have entered the realm of modified and factory specs start to mean less and less.
I found on mine, when i went to torque some of the castle nuts went tighter than where the cotter pin would do anything.
yep i found the same thing
this made my dust boot squeeze out and it got torn on the dust/heat shield that is behind the hub assembly
not seeing how these moog dust boots come off the tie rod end, but if i replace it it will probably rip again
most likely need to remove tire and cut out a piece of that shielding i guess
Oh it's easy to tell, there's grease slung all over the inside of the wheel
I took the wheel off and reinstalled the tie rod end, while the boot does not make contact with the shielding I wonder if it does when I'm steering to the right ...
I made another thread yesterday where I posted pics and then I found this thread, apparently this is not correct the way the ball stud comes this far through the knuckle
I took the wheel off and reinstalled the tie rod end, while the boot does not make contact with the shielding I wonder if it does when I'm steering to the right ...
I made another thread yesterday where I posted pics and then I found this thread, apparently this is not correct the way the ball stud comes this far through the knuckle
Does this help?Oh it's easy to tell, there's grease slung all over the inside of the wheel
I took the wheel off and reinstalled the tie rod end, while the boot does not make contact with the shielding I wonder if it does when I'm steering to the right ...
I made another thread yesterday where I posted pics and then I found this thread, apparently this is not correct the way the ball stud comes this far through the knuckle
Yeah I did see that, I looked through every photo in this thread and most of them seem like mine, maybe not as bad? But still "squished" on driver side more than passenger side.
I'll be calling Moog to ask about it and see if I might could get another dust boot. I tried to take this one off and it won't budge.
Commented on your other thread to keep this one cleaner. I think back it off and run cotter pin through castle nut.
So I looked through several pages, and I just wanted to update. I think this is the new amazon link for Crown's HD Steering Kit, for those of us who want to just get it all in one fell swoop:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DQT40XO/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DQT40XO/?tag=wranglerorg-20