ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

Hello,

I'm looking into the upgrade for my TJ with the tie rod, maybe I'm a bit slow at reading but.... is it worth it just to upgrade the tie rod (DS 1312) and not my stock drag link? (DS 1430) I'm adding a picture for better understanding of my current set up, 285/75 r16 tires with 4.5 inches of lift (RE) and two steering stabilizers.. (PO installed those)

Steering.jpg
 
There is no reason to upgrade the stock drag link, unless you're doing the Currie Correctlync. Are you going to do casual trail riding, or will you be spending time on the rocks?
 
There is no reason to upgrade the stock drag link, unless you're doing the Currie Correctlync. Are you going to do casual trail riding, or will you be spending time on the rocks?

I like to be prepared for both... But mostly trails....
 
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I like to be prepared for both... But mostly trails....

This is my ZJ conversion, after just one wheeling Trip. It was pushed all the way into the sway bar link bracket. Granted, I was in some decent sized rocks, and was able to bend it back, but it's still a potential weak spot. If however you think you'll be more on the "trail ride" side, it's a better option than stock.


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This is my ZJ conversion, after just one wheeling Trip. It was pushed all the way into the sway bar link bracket. Granted, I was in some decent sized rocks, and was able to bend it back, but it's still a potential weak spot. If however you think you'll be more on the "trail ride" side, it's a better option than stock.

holly mother! but the bending of the tie rod was because you hit a rock really hard or because of a weakness in the material/design of the ZJ upgrade?
 
No problem, exactly what I did. You don't need Moog, anything rockauto.com has will be fine. You're just getting that heavy solid section in the tie rod and even the cheapest versions of the ZJ stuff have it.

I got a really good deal in Amazon,for the tie rod.. "Item will come in original packaging. Packaging will be damaged." and it was only 32 bucks .. and other 40 bucks for the tie rod end and the sleeve.. 79 bucks (final with tax) for the complete upgrade!!!
 
because you hit a rock really hard or because of a weakness in the material/design of the ZJ upgrade?
It's the rock. You still have to be aware of the parts under your Jeep that are vulnerable to damage like the diffs and the steering when you are on tough trails. First lesson off road, learn where the vulnerable parts are under your rig and don't hit them, put the tires on the angry stuff. Regarding steering or just about anything it is always better to do one step and see how it goes. Honestly you'd probably be fine with stock but ZJ is not too expensive and a fun project. I bent my stock setup many times before I upgraded. In the above situation I'd just replace the bent parts, cheaper than getting some over the top upgrade when it was probably just a poor decision on the trail. When you get tired of fixing stuff then you upgrade.
 
This is my ZJ conversion, after just one wheeling Trip. It was pushed all the way into the sway bar link bracket. Granted, I was in some decent sized rocks, and was able to bend it back, but it's still a potential weak spot. If however you think you'll be more on the "trail ride" side, it's a better option than stock.

The fact that you were able to bend it back and drive on makes it an upgrade to the stock bar.
Even high quality (high priced) ones will bend.
 
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holly mother! but the bending of the tie rod was because you hit a rock really hard or because of a weakness in the material/design of the ZJ upgrade?

Both. The coupling, where it attaches to the tie rod end, seems to be problem area. As stated though, this is still an upgrade to the stock parts and will serve you well, unless you frequent rocks!
 
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I got a really good deal in Amazon,for the tie rod.. "Item will come in original packaging. Packaging will be damaged." and it was only 32 bucks .. and other 40 bucks for the tie rod end and the sleeve.. 79 bucks (final with tax) for the complete upgrade!!!

I found a similar deal. Paid $20 for the tie rod end and they sent me the whole solid rod by mistake so I went back and ordered it again and they sent me the correct part and a sleeve. I lucked out with their mistake and ended up paying $59 for the upgrade lol
 
I got a really good deal in Amazon,for the tie rod.. "Item will come in original packaging. Packaging will be damaged." and it was only 32 bucks .. and other 40 bucks for the tie rod end and the sleeve.. 79 bucks (final with tax) for the complete upgrade!!!

At that price you can wreck it and replace it a fair few times before you get close to the cost of further upgrades.
 
This is my ZJ conversion, after just one wheeling Trip. It was pushed all the way into the sway bar link bracket. Granted, I was in some decent sized rocks, and was able to bend it back, but it's still a potential weak spot. If however you think you'll be more on the "trail ride" side, it's a better option than stock.


20220627_094330.jpg


20220627_094408.jpg

Is it just me, or does the fact you have the adjustment sleeve far from centered between the tie rod and the rod end suggest that might be part of he problem?
 
Is it just me, or does the fact you have the adjustment sleeve far from centered between the tie rod and the rod end suggest that might be part of he problem?

I know I’ve always tried to screw both sides in evenly and then adjust them both out at the same time so it’s basically equal length threads on both sides of the coupler.
 
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Is your driver's side outer tie rod stud pulled too far through the knuckle so the cotter pin is above the castellations in the nut?

I can't tell for sure but based on how compressed that tie rod boot is, looks like you might have the same thing I have going on. I have been trying to figure it out.

This is something that has been bugging me too. I replaced my boots yesterday and went with 55lb from what I found literally everywhere. It was much tighter than OEM, which the TREs had never been removed. I checked the tie rod to drag connection and my wrench clicked at 35lb, which got me thinking the knuckles were 35lb too.

Got a copy of the 2003 service manual. Interestingly the chart in it shows 55lb but the actual step by step instructions state 35lb. One difference I noticed was the Nm is 47 for 35lb and 74 for 55lb. Possibly transposed?

I am a bit confused now which is best as I have 176K at 35lbs so it can't be too bad. Wondering if the extra 20lbs of torque are contributing to premature failure or not?
 
Thankfully had a little time to look more into this tonight after a 12 hr shift. Enlisted the help of my son to turn the wheel so I could watch the MC stabilizer and see what was really happening. Turned out the boot was binding between the stabilizer body and the drag link and also pinching between the rod(?) and the body. I moved the boot and the pic below is at full lock. Guess I just needed another hand to properly diagnose. If anyone is interested, the full lock to passenger was about 12.5” eye to eye on the stabilizer. It is close to bottoming out but not quite. I am just going to run it without a boot as I have seen many that don’t come with them or people run without them all the time. Thank you for all the suggestions and sorry I jumped the gun by asking before fully investigating.

View attachment 320138

Are you using the zJ draglink DS1311 or DS1310?