ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

Just wondering, would it be acceptable to use a thick grade 8 flat washer under the nut to get the hole/cotter pin to line up with the slots in the castle nut?

Or even a thin grade 8 if that’s all you need to line them up?

I think a washer would be fine, if the nut is so low that the cotter pin can't block it from turning. That solves the cotter pin problem, but not the squashed dust boot problem.
 
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Just wondering, would it be acceptable to use a thick grade 8 flat washer under the nut to get the hole/cotter pin to line up with the slots in the castle nut?

Or even a thin grade 8 if that’s all you need to line them up?

Seems like it would be a good idea. My Moog TRE could probably use one too. Just like almost everyone I see, my castle nut is a couple threads below where the pin hole should be so it’s sitting at the very top of the cut aways.
 
Full disclosure, I didn't read all 29 previous pages

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2743972627...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1My question: does this look comparable to the items discussed at the beginning of the thread? Is the quality in the actual ends? Is it still accurate the drag link doesn't need changed?
This is what we have now
01 sahara, 4" lift 33s
Full size bronco steering box and squirrely all over the place
20230228_152146.jpg

Edit: started a new thread
 
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You didn't read the pages. And you want us to do your research on some unknown package. Is this your normal way of operating?

I'll tell you this: Your track bar frame mount looks wonky, along with your steering geometry = squirrely. Go research that.
 
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You didn't read the pages. And you want us to do your research on some unknown package. Is this your normal way of operating?

I'll tell you this: Your track bar frame mount looks wonky, along with your steering geometry = squirrely. Go research that.

Not my normal mo, but 29 pages is a lot. I've looked a lot, but am still spun around. I know the geometry is off, but if I lose the tb mount, that'll make it worse. A little better since letting about half of the 47 PSI out of the tires!!!
 
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Yeah, these threads start out good, but then devolve into long wandering discussions. Too bad there's no good way to condense them into something more concise without a huge about of work.
... I know the geometry is off, but if I lose the tb mount, that'll make it worse ...
That looks like your main problem to me. That long frame mount messes up your geometry (squirrely) and flexes the frame even though it seems solid (squirrely). Putting new steering parts in without fixing the real problem isn't going to help. You might need a different track bar if you move that mount. I'm not sure about that frame-end joint on it - maybe it can be made to work if the joints are good.
 
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Yeah, these threads start out good, but then devolve into long wandering discussions. Too bad there's no good way to condense them into something more concise without a huge about of work.

That looks like your main problem to me. That long frame mount messes up your geometry (squirrely) and flexes the frame even though it seems solid (squirrely). Putting new steering parts in without fixing the real problem isn't going to help. You might need a different track bar if you move that mount. I'm not sure about that frame-end joint on it - maybe it can be made to work if the joints are good.

I thought about a different track bar. That one doesn't have near the bend of the stock, but it's adjustable. I thought about pulling it all and starting over. More to deal with tomorrow. Thanks for the insight
 
Full disclosure, I didn't read all 29 previous pages

[URL]https://www.ebay.com/itm/27439...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL]
My question: does this look comparable to the items discussed at the beginning of the thread? Is the quality in the actual ends? Is it still accurate the drag link doesn't need changed?
This is what we have now
01 sahara, 4" lift 33s
Full size bronco steering box and squirrely all over the place
View attachment 403798
Edit: started a new thread

Fix the frame mount of the Trackbar by going back to stock.
 
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Moog from Rock Auto

Just received my MOOG ZJ tie rod, adjusting sleeve and tie rod end from Amazon. All three parts were only $78 I’m impressed by the beef of the tie rod! Can’t believe I waited this long into my TJ ownership to do this mod!

What side?
What did you torque the castle nut to?
How does it look?

Need more data on these Moog TRE and how far the stud is coming through the knuckle
 
What side?
What did you torque the castle nut to?
How does it look?

Need more data on these Moog TRE and how far the stud is coming through the knuckle

Just received it at work today. Need to get home this weekend and paint it before installing
 
A bit of advice: Inspect where the dust boots will sit for anything nasty. My MOOG drag link had this nice sharp ridge which split a dust boot within a few weeks of installation. It's better to file it smooth before installation than to search for an un-obtainable dust boot later. Keep any filings out of the joint, of course.

Moog_ridge.jpg
 
What side?
What did you torque the castle nut to?
How does it look?

Need more data on these Moog TRE and how far the stud is coming through the knuckle

I just installed mine maybe a month ago; a Moog TRE on a BMB knuckle. I checked the thickness of the old knuckle, and while I could not get the caliper on the BMB knuckle with the TRE installed, it appears to be nearly identical.

After looking at my pic, I hope that boot isn't too smashed. The castle nut is torqued to the service manual spec, and then just a smidge more to get the cotter pin to go thru.
Knuckle.jpg
 
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I went ahead and ordered all the parts to do the complete swap after looking at it. Just wondering something. I’ve read that the MOOG parts come unpainted but mine are a green color. Getting ready to paint and wondering if I need to spray primer over this green

image.jpg