ZJ Tie Rod Conversion


Yes I am going to, thanks. Next question, should this hole be threaded for a ZERK fitting. It is not.

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The drag link has the ZERK on the cap but the tie rod doesn’t. I am away from the Jeep to compare.

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I’ll have to try it after the paint dries. If it doesn’t self tap, i will have to get a bottom tap and hope the wax keeps the shavings out
 
I’ll have to try it after the paint dries. If it doesn’t self tap, i will have to get a bottom tap and hope the wax keeps the shavings out

The one in the box will work fine. I ordered one a while back and thought they forgot the threads. Returned and reordered. 2nd one was the same. I figured I’d try it and see if it cut the threads or broke and return it if it broke. It went in fine and is very secure.

Mine looked like what you have. I wiped it down with isopropyl alcohol then painted it with ACE Hardware Rust Stop in satin black. No primer needed with this paint. Turned out really well. Still need to install it though, just haven’t made the time to do it.

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Just finished painting mine here at work. I hit it lightly with a sanding block then wiped it down with alcohol. Went ahead and primed it with Rustoleleum and top coated with semi gloss black
 
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Just saw this on the parts bag . “ This bag may contain self tapping grease fitting for threaded and non threaded holes “. So of course you guys were right. Thanks
 
What is everyone doing about the issue with the nut ending up below the hole for the cotter pin? I used the same Moog parts that I've used a few times previously and below is the result (both knuckles looked similar but no issue at the pitman arm). I've since added a couple of washers under the nuts but is that what everyone else is doing and is that suitable? I don't see any other good options unless I move to the Currectlync setup.

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Just put the crown automotive tie rod/drag link kit...took off the old one, laid it next to the new one, eyed up the length...put it on, torqued to specs...measured toe in 4 times...was spot on 1/16th..took it for a ride came back measured 2 more times, still 1/16th....what are the odds that it was right from the get go????
 
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Just put the crown automotive tie rod/drag link kit...took off the old one, laid it next to the new one, eyed up the length...put it on, torqued to specs...measured toe in 4 times...was spot on 1/16th..took it for a ride came back measured 2 more times, still 1/16th....what are the odds that it was right from the get go????

Could happen.

By 1/16" you mean ... ?

That should be 1/8" total on a 24" stretch, or 3/16" total on a 36" stretch. And tire size means absolutely nothing on a toe-in adjustment.
 
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The ZJ tie rod upgrade is a simple, cheap, and effective upgrade for your Jeep Wrangler TJ. Found on the V8 model Grand Cherokee ZJ, this tie rod is substantially larger than the stock TJ tie rod. The threaded section of the factory tie rod end measures .65" in diameter. The ZJ end measures 1".

Below you'll find some photos comparing the ZJ tie rod (and tie rod end) to the stock TJ tie rod (and tie rod end). You can see that the ZJ tie rod and tie rod ends are much, much larger than the TJ tie rod setup. This ultimately means you'll have a much stronger steering setup (which isn't a bad thing if you like to get your tie rod hung up on rocks, logs, and the likes).

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Parts Required
The ZJ tie rod conversion parts can be purchased for a very reasonable price on Amazon. You'll need the following parts:
The following parts are optional if you'd like to replace your drag link at the same time, with quality replacement parts. This is a great option if you want to refresh everything, including the drag link (not a bad idea if your Jeep has higher miles). Though the drag link will still remain the stock diameter, (the ZJ and TJ drag links are the same diameter) it will provide you with a completely refreshed steering setup, which is great for preventative maintenance.

Notes
DS1238 is cheaper but equivalent to the DS1430. Also, you may need 2 of the short ends and coupling sleeves depending on how much you're replacing.

Another option is to purchase the the Crown HD steering kit which includes the beefier ZJ tie rod, as well as a new drag link. This includes everything you need, all in one "kit".


Torque Specs
Drag Link to Pitman Arm Nut - 81 Nm / 60 ft.lbs.
Drag Link to Knuckle Nut - 47 Nm / 35 ft.lbs.
Drag Link Clamp Bolts - 49 Nm / 36 ft.lbs.
Tie Rod Clamp Bolts - 49 Nm / 35 ft.lbs
Tie Rod Knuckle - 47 Nm / 35 ft.lbs
Tie Rod to Drag Link - 75 Nm / 55 ft.lbs.


Conclusion
Last but not least, this is a good article worth reading if you're interested in the various possible steering upgrades for your TJ: What is the best steering for my Jeep Wrangler TJ?

This is an incredibly easy modification to do, and can be done while your Jeep is on the ground with the wheels still on, not even jacked up at all. It's really that easy!

I’m considering this upgrade. I see this is a few years old. Do you suggest anything different from what you posted here?
 
I did the ZJ tie rod conversion again, this time to the LJ. The tie rod itself is perfectly torqued to 55. The tie rod end torqued to 35 foot pounds has the cotter pin hole too high like some others experienced. I hate when this happens and I have to pop the stud off again. Looks like it needs atleast one washer. I'm going to use a grade 8 flat washer that is zinc plated. I went out to look under the TJ and apparently back in 2021 when I did the front suspension I either didn't notice or didn't care that the tie rod end at the steering knuckle had the hole too high. :ROFLMAO:
 
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I did the ZJ tie rod conversion again, this time to the LJ. The tie rod itself is perfectly torqued to 55. The tie rod end torqued to 35 foot pounds has the cotter pin hole too high like some others experienced. I hate when this happens and I have to pop the stud off again. Looks like it needs atleast one washer. I'm going to use a grade 8 flat washer that is zinc plated. I went out to look under the TJ and apparently back in 2021 when I did the front suspension I either didn't notice or didn't care that the tie rod end at the steering knuckle had the hole too high. :ROFLMAO:

Yep I had to add washers as well.
 
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