I see a lot of hate for needle Zerks, but for me getting steel needle on a pistol-grip grease gun has made all the difference.
ZJ Tie Rod Conversion
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
LONGJP2
TJ Expert
For anyone who is interested, RockJock sent me the specs on their tie rod ends. I could not definitively say what the issue is because it's difficult to determine where the center of the ball is inside the TRE.
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I'm just going off of what Mr Blaine was saying that you can't just back off a castle nut if you overtorque, it has to be started over. I took that to mean the nut removed and the stud taper popped and restarted. That being said for some reason when I went to add the washer the tie rod end just came out after only a couple of turns by hand with my puller tool.
Hey Chris, thanks for the info. I bent the tie rod on my jeep about a year ago, when I forgot the unchain my jeep before backing it off a trailer. I have started to get a little death wobble, (on top of the screeching tires when I turn) and decided its finally time to do some maintenance on the front end.
Is this an exhaustive list of all the components of the "steering linkage" or is there more? What would necessitate needing two more short ends? Can you provide some clarification on the difference in parts replaced between what you have listed, and something like this straight from Moog? https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-packagedeal039
Thanks!
Is this an exhaustive list of all the components of the "steering linkage" or is there more? What would necessitate needing two more short ends? Can you provide some clarification on the difference in parts replaced between what you have listed, and something like this straight from Moog? https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-packagedeal039
Thanks!
That is the stock Wrangler kit. The V8 ZJ uses a heavier, solid tie rod. https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-packagedeal211
Right, but what is the difference in the number of ball joints replaced? I have an 04, with 100,000 miles, so its probably in my best interest to replace everything
The ZJ tie rod is a tie rod fixed end on one side, one large adjuster sleeve/clamp, and a single tie rod end. The Tj setup is two tie rod ends, two tiny small clamps, one tie rod. The stock TJ tie rod is a joke for anything other than highway cruising. The "second" additional tie rod end is for the drag link. All the parts listed by Chris in the OP will bolt up to the TJ. If you wanted to replace the drag link end components and go with the ZJ tie rod you would simply purchase two of the ES3096L and also two of the sleeves. I would just swap out the tie rod components and go from there, and worry about the drag link and ball joints second. Don't forget that your track bar and steering stabilizer also make a difference despite not being steering components in the traditional sense.
The part numbers listed for the ball joints are identical in both kits. Those kits seem really overpriced for what they are. I bet you could get the parts individually for cheaper.
You would need 2 TREs and adjustment collars for the ZJ setup. I have no idea why the ZJ kit only includes 1.
Also, don’t buy house brand shit from your local parts store. It’s cheaper, but didn’t last a year on my Jeep. Moog parts are well worth the extra cost.
You can get all the parts you need off Amazon for $100ish
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C59W7U/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C57VBY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5400E/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C53XRK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Add anither $90 if you need the draglink, but it's not an upgrade of the stock one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5406S/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C59W7U/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C57VBY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5400E/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C53XRK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Add anither $90 if you need the draglink, but it's not an upgrade of the stock one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5406S/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Dang all those parts are way discounted right now! I just ordered them for the daughters new TJ.
Actually, those prices are almost exactly what I paid for them back in 2021. They show marked down on Amazon but they're roughly the same price on Rock Auto, so maybe this isn't quite the flash sale it first appeared to be.
Actually, those prices are almost exactly what I paid for them back in 2021. They show marked down on Amazon but they're roughly the same price on Rock Auto, so maybe this isn't quite the flash sale it first appeared to be.
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This is exactly the clarification I needed, thank you!
Currently my Amazon cart has the following:
1x MOOG DS1430 Steering Drag Link
1x Monroe Magnum SC2928 Steering DamperMonroe Magnum SC2928 Steering Damper
1x MOOG DS1312 Steering Tie Rod End
2x MOOG ES2079S Steering Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
2x MOOG ES3096L Steering Tie Rod End
Anything Im missing?
That's everything you need for the Drag Link and Tie Rod. The Monroe steering stabilizer will work well although I personally used the Rancho RS5407. Make sure you paint the Moog components thoroughly as they come bare metal. The adjusting sleeve comes painted but it's very weak and will flake off. I know it sounds crazy but I paint the threads of the tie rods, the threads of the ball joints (with the boot on top to protect internals), and the castle nut and cotter pins too. They will rust out almost after the first wash if you don't. Just gotta go really light with a spray paint can when hitting the threads to avoid gobbing up.
I found this out the hard way when I did this last year. I painted the tie rod and drag link only and the threads and castle nuts immediately showed rust.
I bought the moog parts on Amazon for the conversion and I am having trouble where the drag link connects to the pitman arm. The bolt on the tie rod end goes into the pitman arm, but it is at the slightest angle and it won’t go all the way through. What do I need to adjust to make it work?
That bolt is a ball stud. Take your rubber mallet and tap it to move it to the angle you need. They're real stiff when new, but it will move with a little persuasion.
SrBob
New Member
I apologizeif this has been asked previously, but it seems a waste to replace the entire drag link especially if I’m going to just replace it with the same part. Is feasible to just replace the ball joint part of the drag link, as simply as the knuckly ball joints, or is it not usually done? Hate to waste a perfectly good long piece of steel if I don’t really have to. Thoughts?
Thanks.
Thanks.
The pitman end is replaceable, the tierod end has the ball joint as an integral part. If that lower ball joint is good, keep your old drag link, if bad, replace it.
SrBob
New Member
