ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

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Play in the wheel can come from a lot of different causes. I'm no expert when it comes to pitman arms, but as long as the arm is tight in the steering gearing box with no play then you should be good.

Have you looked at the steering linkages from wheel to steering box? Those can wear out too and add to the play felt in the wheel.
 
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Adam Sweet said:
What's a good way to check if I really need it? I figured while I was already in there I might as well change it for $40. Theres a decent amount of play in the wheel.
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I wouldn't replace the stock pitman arm, unless it had to be replaced. Since you're doing the ZJ conversion, replace those parts first, then go from there.

FWIW, once you start trying to remove the stock pitman arm, you'll wish you left it alone!
 
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LincolnJr said:
Someone on a different forum had said don't use the 1238 because of the different angle, so I figured since I had both I'd take pictures to document it for others' reference. Since yours worked I'll try it and document that too.
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Did you have success with the 1238? Has anyone who's used the 1238 had any issues? It's currently about $35 cheaper than the 1430 on Amazon.
 
Chris said:
The ZJ tie rod upgrade is a simple, cheap, and effective upgrade for your Jeep Wrangler TJ. Found on the V8 model Grand Cherokee ZJ, this tie rod is substantially larger than the stock TJ tie rod. The threaded section of the factory tie rod end measures .65" in diameter. The ZJ end measures 1".

Below you'll find some photos comparing the ZJ tie rod (and tie rod end) to the stock TJ tie rod (and tie rod end). You can see that the ZJ tie rod and tie rod ends are much, much larger than the TJ tie rod setup. This ultimately means you'll have a much stronger steering setup (which isn't a bad thing if you like to get your tie rod hung up on rocks, logs, and the likes).

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Parts Required
The ZJ tie rod conversion parts can be purchased for a very reasonable price on Amazon. You'll need the following parts:
The following parts are optional if you'd like to replace your drag link at the same time, with quality replacement parts. This is a great option if you want to refresh everything, including the drag link (not a bad idea if your Jeep has higher miles). Though the drag link will still remain the stock diameter, (the ZJ and TJ drag links are the same diameter) it will provide you with a completely refreshed steering setup, which is great for preventative maintenance.

Notes
DS1238 is cheaper but equivalent to the DS1430. Also, you may need 2 of the short ends and coupling sleeves depending on how much you're replacing.

Another option is to purchase the the Crown HD steering kit which includes the beefier ZJ tie rod, as well as a new drag link. This includes everything you need, all in one "kit".


Torque Specs
Drag Link to Pitman Arm Nut - 81 Nm / 60 ft.lbs.
Drag Link to Knuckle Nut - 47 Nm / 35 ft.lbs.
Drag Link Clamp Bolts - 49 Nm / 36 ft.lbs.
Tie Rod Clamp Bolts - 49 Nm / 35 ft.lbs
Tie Rod Knuckle - 47 Nm / 35 ft.lbs
Tie Rod to Drag Link - 75 Nm / 55 ft.lbs.


Conclusion
Last but not least, this is a good article worth reading if you're interested in the various possible steering upgrades for your TJ: What is the best steering for my Jeep Wrangler TJ?

This is an incredibly easy modification to do, and can be done while your Jeep is on the ground with the wheels still on, not even jacked up at all. It's really that easy!
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Any idea if this is the same kit? Amazon is out of stock.

04 jeep wrangler tj

https://www.quadratec.com/products/...m_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organicshopping
 
Chris said:
Yes, that’s the same kit.
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I was wondering about this too. It seems the kit part number has changed since the original post.
I think the one that ends in 0005 has the steering stabilizer included, the one 0004 does not. I’m not sure if the stab that comes with the kit is worth it.
I’m looking to order one along with ball joints soon
 
UglyDuck said:
I was wondering about this too. It seems the kit part number has changed since the original post.
I think the one that ends in 0005 has the steering stabilizer included, the one 0004 does not. I’m not sure if the stab that comes with the kit is worth it.
I’m looking to order one along with ball joints soon
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I need to do some more research and find what has changed since I originally wrote this.
 
I went to NAPA and bought all new parts for a ‘98 Grand Cherokee. Stabilizer and all. Fit perfectly definitely worth the upgrade. 🇺🇸
 
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You have to pull the axles when you replace the ball joints. After that, remove the differential cover and remove the carrier assembly. Pay careful attention to position of the bearing caps. They are marked with a stamped letter for re-alignment. Also make sure to watch for the position of shims for re-assembly. You will have a seal on either side of the carrier that can be driven by using a long pipe or similar arrangement from the hub side. Clean everything thoroughly and reinstall a new spicer seal using a seal installer or pounding it in with combination of socket extensions and a large socket. I seem to recall it being 36mm but it may have been 34. You can probably find a step by step instruction in the How To section here. I am giving the readers digest condensed version. I do this so often I got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078U9NNU/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Works like a charm. You will have to torque the carrier bearing cap bolts as well as the hub bolts and large axle nut if removed.
 
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BTW, I have had good luck with LubeLocker's re-usable diff gasket and Lucas 85/140 gear oil. I stick to the brand Spicer for ball joints and seals.
 
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