Front differential cover contacts track bar

[notnsuv]

First time 'cycling' suspension. Unhooked shocks, removed axle side of track bar, removed ACOS and springs, disconnected Anti-Roc.
Installed tires and lifted the passenger side first which didn't get too far before contacting the Bushwacker flares. Removed those and gained 4" on the passenger side. Limiting factor was the front lip of the inner fender near the headlight.

Same procedure on the driver's side and first contact was the steering draglink (?) on the G2 diff cover which was at a point far less than the passenger side.
Going to have to do more cycling to check this out again but for now.

I just posted a link to a front diff cover that might help the situation but I can't help think there's more to the solution. Like a new trackbar that finds it's way around the diff? I'm not 100% on the brand but the lift is all RE except for Currie Correct Link steering.

Recommendations please?

I'll edit this when I can post pics via my phone but the one with contact showing didn't come out so will re-do.

 

[rasband]

Like a new trackbar that finds it's way around the diff?

Here's Currie (top) vs JKS. The currie kicks out faster and moves the bend where it should be. The JKS seems to be the next best option, since the other options I've seen to compare either bend weird or use joints that get noisy.

 

[notnsuv]

Exactly what I was looking for. After all the rigmarole I'm putting myself through, I fully expect to have 100% RockJock/Currie/Savvy suspension. LJ already has Correctlynk and original 5-hole Anti-Rock. 1st World problems for sure.
Find this on Rock Jock page but it doesn't have a picture showing the bend as you did. Shouldoughta.
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9120TJS-TJ-XJ-LJ-MJ-Johnny-Joint-Jeep-Front-Trac-Bar?quantity=1
Thanks.

 

[rasband]

Exactly what I was looking for. After all the rigmarole I'm putting myself through, I fully expect to have 100% RockJock/Currie/Savvy suspension. 1st World problems for sure.
Find this on Rock Jock page but it doesn't have a picture showing the bend as you did. Shouldoughta.
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9120TJS-TJ-XJ-LJ-MJ-Johnny-Joint-Jeep-Front-Trac-Bar?quantity=1
Thanks.

It does, it's just hard to see in that perspective. That's the same one I ordered. Of course you can call them in the morning to chat and verify it's what you're looking for.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Ok I'm reading interference with the drag link, which is different from the track bar... And a new track bar won't make your drag link clear the Diff cover.

I have a rockjock track bar and a stock diff cover and that's still my first point of interference (not counting tires), but my shocks bottom out just before contact and my bump stops are based on that.

 

[jjvw]

Ok I'm reading interference with the drag link, which is different from the track bar... And a new track bar won't make your drag link clear the Diff cover.

I have a rockjock track bar and a stock diff cover and that's still my first point of interference (not counting tires), but my shocks bottom out just before contact and my bump stops are based on that.

The track bar is behind the drag link. The drag link won't come anywhere near the diff cover without something being terrifically bent

 

[rasband]

The track bar is behind the drag link. The drag link won't come anywhere near the diff cover without something being terrifically bent

Another case of title and OP don't match - but I agree, this is likely the trackbar not the drag link. They'd interfere before the drag link and the diff could (assuming semi-stock steering setups)

 

[jjvw]

Another case of title and OP don't match - but I agree, this is likely the trackbar not the drag link. They'd interfere before the drag link and the diff could (assuming semi-stock steering setups)

When I moved the frame side track bar mount forward, it was the drag link at the pitman arm that determined how far forward I could push the axle before the drag link and track bar collided.

 

[mrblaine]

When I moved the frame side track bar mount forward, it was the drag link at the pitman arm that determined how far forward I could push the axle before the drag link and track bar collided.

And when you finally move to hydro assist, there will be at least a few smacks to the forehead. I do have a solution though.

 

[jjvw]

And when you finally move to hydro assist, there will be at least a few smacks to the forehead. I do have a solution though.

I've been wondering about that for a while.

 

[notnsuv]

Another case of title and OP don't match - but I agree, this is likely the trackbar not the drag link. They'd interfere before the drag link and the diff could (assuming semi-stock steering setups)

You're all 100%, it's the trackbar. Corrected and edited.

 

[notnsuv]

Ok I'm reading interference with the drag link, which is different from the track bar... And a new track bar won't make your drag link clear the Diff cover.

I have a rockjock track bar and a stock diff cover and that's still my first point of interference (not counting tires), but my shocks bottom out just before contact and my bump stops are based on that.

Ok, so our mistake was stuffing without shocks or we'd have probably noticed the same result but with shock limits evident. I'm going to re-install the shocks and give it another go.


Thanks.

 

[jjvw]

Ok, so our mistake was stuffing without shocks or we'd have probably noticed the same result but with shock limits evident. I'm going to re-install the shocks and give it another go.

Thanks.

Cycling without shocks will tell you what length shocks will best fit. It will also tell you what the interferences might be beyond the shocks so that you can decide if you want to increase the travel by removing those interferences.

 

[notnsuv]

Cycling without shocks will tell you what length shocks will best fit. It will also tell you what the interferences might be beyond the shocks so that you can decide if you want to increase the travel by removing those interferences.

And...if we'd had the shocks in they might have limited travel on the passenger side and not have let the tire near the Bushwackers. Instead, we pulled the flares and thought we'd gained a bunch of stuff.

 

[notnsuv]

Cycling without shocks will tell you what length shocks will best fit. It will also tell you what the interferences might be beyond the shocks so that you can decide if you want to increase the travel by removing those interferences.

So the measurement on the driver's side w/o shocks, where we hit trackbar and diff would indicate correct shock length, provided there is no cure for that contact?

 

[jjvw]

And...if we'd had the shocks in they might have limited travel on the passenger side and not have let the tire near the Bushwackers. Instead, we pulled the flares and thought we'd gained a bunch of stuff.

Possibly correct, depending on where the shocks stopped the travel.

Interesting stuff, right?

 

[jjvw]

So the measurement on the driver's side w/o shocks, where we hit trackbar and diff would indicate correct shock length, provided there is no cure for that contact?

Maybe. The fully raised axle might have an interference before the point you describe at full articulation. Often it's the track bar and diff cover.

That's why you take measurements at every point and find a shock that gets you half of it's travel at ride height.

If you pay close enough attention, especially with the rear, you can start to see why some of us have moved the shock mounts in order to get more travel and still maintain that 50/50 ratio.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

The track bar is behind the drag link. The drag link won't come anywhere near the diff cover without something being terrifically bent

Hence the confusion.

 

[notnsuv]

Possibly correct, depending on where the shocks stopped the travel.

Interesting stuff, right?

Yeah, that's a very positive way to put it. I'll feel smarter when it's done right.

 

[notnsuv]

If you pay close enough attention, especially with the rear, you can start to see why some of us have moved the shock mounts in order to get more travel and still maintain that 50/50 ratio.

Ah, the rear.. can't wait. My buddy thinks I'm OCD for even mentioning that I'll have to do the rear next. But I will. And a ton more questions probably. When that's all done and documented I'll move on to my spring selection, a whole new ball 'o wax.