What have you done to your TJ to improve ground clearance and get rid of hangy downy things?
- Thread starter starkey480
- Start date
I just read that!I literally spit my coffee out when I read Someone’s response about it potentially becoming a giant (wet dry vac!
I didn’t get that far. I bailed when I saw the pics. Might have read the first couple comments. Figured I would be better off wasting my time reading about V8 swaps. Lol.
What part of "no drill" didn't you understand?
OP
Official list of hangy downy things to make less hangy downy:
- driver side tie rod flip (requires new tapered insert from the top of the drivers knuckle and black magic raised sway bar mounts. Only the driver side gets flipped)
- 1.25” body lift (raises entire tub. Use aluminum pucks, savvy makes best)
- 1” motor mount lift (Use rubber bushings, raising the stockers with blocks seems to be smoothest option for vibration)
- raised side body mounts (requires body lift and replaces side pucks. Use genright or modify stockers)
- replace side body mount lower isolators with the rear lower isolators and countersunk bolts
- mini boat sides (modified genright??)
- raised belly skid (savvy is best, or DIY utilizing independent crossmember and skid)
- raised engine skid (needs mml)
- countersink belly skid bolts
- outboard rear shocks (raises up axle mount)
- raised gas tank skid or fuel cell (savvy skid raises at least 1.25” when paired with body lift)
- raise the gas tank skid up even more by cutting into the tub. (Requires much enthusiasm)
- 1.25” rear frame crossmember raise (requires body lift and replaces rear pucks)
I will keep adding to this list and put it in the original post, hopefully with pictures. Am I missing any cool ones? @mrblaine
- driver side tie rod flip (requires new tapered insert from the top of the drivers knuckle and black magic raised sway bar mounts. Only the driver side gets flipped)
- 1.25” body lift (raises entire tub. Use aluminum pucks, savvy makes best)
- 1” motor mount lift (Use rubber bushings, raising the stockers with blocks seems to be smoothest option for vibration)
- raised side body mounts (requires body lift and replaces side pucks. Use genright or modify stockers)
- replace side body mount lower isolators with the rear lower isolators and countersunk bolts
- mini boat sides (modified genright??)
- raised belly skid (savvy is best, or DIY utilizing independent crossmember and skid)
- raised engine skid (needs mml)
- countersink belly skid bolts
- outboard rear shocks (raises up axle mount)
- raised gas tank skid or fuel cell (savvy skid raises at least 1.25” when paired with body lift)
- raise the gas tank skid up even more by cutting into the tub. (Requires much enthusiasm)
- 1.25” rear frame crossmember raise (requires body lift and replaces rear pucks)
I will keep adding to this list and put it in the original post, hopefully with pictures. Am I missing any cool ones? @mrblaine
Unless you're a fucking moron who thinks the draglink is just going to bend anyway, so why bother?
If you just get a good non compressible material, the rest is just subjective.
I won't disagree at all.
If you modify stockers, generally you move them back one spot and make a new front one.
I don't know that the juice is worth the squeeze on that one.
I'm a fan of the mini boatside. Not a fan of a mini with a step, why?
Savvy is great if you can't fabricate. If you can, it is very easy to exceed the functionality.
Always run flat head fasteners if you can under there.
Only reason I developed it.
The rear frame raise is almost an aesthetic thing on the TJ and pretty much a waste of time, it is needed on the TJ Unlimited where it actually matters.
I have some I am fixing to do on this next one that I won't share until they are done. When you see it, it will be "fuck, why didn't I think of that?)
I was sad that no one mentioned you could do the same by pulling the right headlight bucket and zip tying the end of the shop vac hose to the top of the antenna.
I tend to stop when water hits the floor board, if I go that deep. I am not a fan of water crossings.
OP
I am constantly saying that. I’m excited to see what you are cooking up.
For the mini boat sides I’ve seen you do, do you use genright and cut off the steps? I’m guessing the steps defeat the benefit of the mini boat sides.
We use the GR stuff and remove the steps when we can.
OP
The steps are what are hanging me up, so they're gone soon. If genright put them in line with the boatside angle it would have been better.
Instead, I have these ready to go when I have time.
You should remember to crop your sparkle panties out of the pic before you find out who you inadvertently got way too excited. Or maybe not if that is what you were after. You hitting on Zorba?
Glad I didn't mention what I think it is. I'm looking forward to seeing how you handle the bolts.
i didn't post that, did i?............. i thought i deleted it. now i gotta go look.
nope not me .............i did type it out and then depleted some rude BS about how now we have an OBV sys available to us now. (V-vacuum sys).
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