I’ve read your exploits with winches. You’re the master. I appreciate the help.Looks pretty clean other than the motor. When you dig into it let me know and I will help with a grocery list.
I’ve read your exploits with winches. You’re the master. I appreciate the help.Looks pretty clean other than the motor. When you dig into it let me know and I will help with a grocery list.
It is no problem. There is a few things you can do to help out that particular motor to deal with corrosion I can show you.I’ve read your exploits with winches. You’re the master. I appreciate the help.
Free shipping to Va?and we can sell the HF Badlands 12,000
This is my first issue. I can’t get the nut off because the bolt is spinning. It never was tightened down to begin with. Maybe why it can’t get a good connection. There’s a plastic retainer inside that keeps the 6-sided bolt head from twisting. That must be broke. Do I remove the four screws on the housing to get in there?It is no problem. There is a few things you can do to help out that particular motor to deal with corrosion I can show you.
Should be able to tap the motor end housing with a mallet to separate. There's probably a little corrosion holding it together.Is there a way to separate the black and silver parts and get them back together without issue?
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I'm looking up brush plate so I know exactly what you are talking about. I can't find anything, but that's ok. I'll just wait and see what you come up with and we can go from there. I did notice the missing flange nut and intended to replace it and the bolt.The PO did you little favor with that motor as there was supposed to be a flange nut next to the armature post insulator like the field posts have. Easiest way to fix your bolt problem is to replace the brush plate. Let me dig around and see if I have a good used one.
The end cap should tap off it is just stuck because of corrosion and that gap is from a missing piece of plastic which is part of you corrosion problem. For the surface corrosion just use a wire brush and some electrical contact cleaner. Check the bearing on the armature and make sure it rolls smooth. From there you will want to take some Emory tape and clean up the commutator.
The brush plate is what houses the four brushes and has the yellowish plastic on the face. The brush plate is in the silver colored motor end housing.I'm looking up brush plate so I know exactly what you are talking about. I can't find anything, but that's ok. I'll just wait and see what you come up with and we can go from there. I did notice the missing flange nut and intended to replace it and the bolt.
I think I know what gap you're talking about on the silver portion. I need to fill that with something to keep moisture from getting inside. I did clean up some of the surface corrosion inside already, so that is going well. The bearing is smooth. I was happy about that. I'll get some Emery tape and start cleaning up the commutator. Thanks for the vocab lesson. Google is my friend there!
What grit Emery Tape should I use to clean Commutator?
Any special grease I should use as I go through components, clean and re-grease?
Whoever discovered these scientific principles and tapped into them with designs like this, I'd like to see in their mind.
Ok, I'll go remove the cap with a rubber mallet and take some pics here in a bit. Thanks for your help.Post up pics of the brush plate and end cap I am sure I can come up with some stuff for you.
Here’s my brush plate.
I think once I get the motor all cleaned up and fix that one bad connection it will work. I’m hoping!Mine was way more rusty on the outside, but your motor is worse inside. It should clean up though. I took all the copper bars out by the solenoids and polished them and all the connectors and bolts.
I bet it would work if you cleaned the motor and put it back together.