GenRight mini boat side slider installation

I've never used a roto broach style bit, but I've ordered a set and I'm about to install mini boat side and corner armor. When you guys are saying drill all the holes with the roto broach, are you leaving out the center punch thing and allowing the rotobroach to self align with the holes already in the armor?

Then using a step bit to enlarge the holes for the nurserts?
I've heard @mrblaine reference these multiple times and just tried one for the first time yesterday. Frankly, I was shocked how well it worked. They self aligned, flung considerably less metal, and wouldn't punch through like a conventional drill. For the holes that required nutserts I used a dullish 17/32 bit. Reason being, a sharp bit will grab the sheet metal and deform it. I found this out the hard way!

20210907_145328-jpg.webp


20210907_145805-jpg.webp
 
I've heard @mrblaine reference these multiple times and just tried one for the first time yesterday. Frankly, I was shocked how well it worked. They self aligned, flung considerably less metal, and wouldn't punch through like a conventional drill. For the holes that required nutserts I used a dullish 17/32 bit. Reason being, a sharp bit will grab the sheet metal and deform it. I found this out the hard way!

View attachment 275613

View attachment 275614
I'm not completely following this, what's the spotweld cutter being used for? Fasteners not using nutserts?
 
I'm not completely following this, what's the spotweld cutter being used for? Fasteners not using nutserts?
Drilling the holes. In my case, I clamped on the Savvy rocker base and drilled through the holes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Apparition
I've heard @mrblaine reference these multiple times and just tried one for the first time yesterday. Frankly, I was shocked how well it worked. They self aligned, flung considerably less metal, and wouldn't punch through like a conventional drill. For the holes that required nutserts I used a dullish 17/32 bit. Reason being, a sharp bit will grab the sheet metal and deform it. I found this out the hard way!

View attachment 275613

View attachment 275614
The other thing that makes those outstanding is how little pressure you have to use pushing on the drill motor. Just make sure to use the lube they have for them on every other hole or so since we all like to spin them faster than needed and heat them up.

With the Savvy backer, the hole is just slightly under .375 where they aren't countersunk so the cutter cleans that up nicely as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Irun
I'm not completely following this, what's the spotweld cutter being used for? Fasteners not using nutserts?
You use it to drill through every hole on the backer or rail for non Savvy applications. That gives you perfect location of each hole, no center punching, no guessing, just very accurate easy holes and locations for all the fasteners including the ones that get nutserts. Just go back after you drill and drop the rail, enlarge all the ones that get nutserts, install nutserts, put the rail on. The cutters make very clean round holes.
 
You use it to drill through every hole on the backer or rail for non Savvy applications. That gives you perfect location of each hole, no center punching, no guessing, just very accurate easy holes and locations for all the fasteners including the ones that get nutserts. Just go back after you drill and drop the rail, enlarge all the ones that get nutserts, install nutserts, put the rail on. The cutters make very clean round holes.
Thanks that clears it up
 
Everyone references the 3/8" cutters, but the GenRight mini boat sliders calls out a 5/16" hole and provides hardware for 5/16" hole. I have a Blair kit with a 5/16" cutter thus drilled them to 5/16" and used hardware provided (they actually provided a big ass bag of hardware that I didn't need but don't provide enough NutSerts so I actually used some 10mm nutserts and 10mm hardware that I had in some locations, but hey it's a TJ it should be a mix of SAE and Metric!!). This is just FYI.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Apparition and Irun
Everyone references the 3/8" cutters, but the GenRight mini boat sliders calls out a 5/16" hole and provides hardware for 5/16" hole. I have a Blair kit with a 5/16" cutter thus drilled them to 5/16" and used hardware provided (they actually provided a big ass bag of hardware that I didn't need but don't provide enough NutSerts so I actually used some 10mm nutserts and 10mm hardware that I had in some locations, but hey it's a TJ it should be a mix of SAE and Metric!!). This is just FYI.
Interesting, my nutserts were for the same thread as the rest. Though similarly, they didn’t include enough.
 
Everyone references the 3/8" cutters, but the GenRight mini boat sliders calls out a 5/16" hole and provides hardware for 5/16" hole. I have a Blair kit with a 5/16" cutter thus drilled them to 5/16" and used hardware provided (they actually provided a big ass bag of hardware that I didn't need but don't provide enough NutSerts so I actually used some 10mm nutserts and 10mm hardware that I had in some locations, but hey it's a TJ it should be a mix of SAE and Metric!!). This is just FYI.
We reference the 3/8" cutter because that is what works on the GR mini boat sides and everyone that puts a 5/16" nutsert behind a rail or backer should be using a 3/8" hole. That is because the hole in the slider is always slightly oversize to 5/16's and if you drill off to one side in that hole and then the nutsert drill bit goes off a slight amount and then the nutsert sets slightly off center as they are wont to do, then you can wind up with a hole you have to fix because the fastener won't start in the threads.

Keep the tolerance stacking minimized, drill 3/8" through the holes, keep the nutsert bit straight, and keep the nutsert tool straight. Since I started doing that 1000's of holes ago, I've never had a single nutsert give me a problem getting the fastener started.
 
We reference the 3/8" cutter because that is what works on the GR mini boat sides and everyone that puts a 5/16" nutsert behind a rail or backer should be using a 3/8" hole. That is because the hole in the slider is always slightly oversize to 5/16's and if you drill off to one side in that hole and then the nutsert drill bit goes off a slight amount and then the nutsert sets slightly off center as they are wont to do, then you can wind up with a hole you have to fix because the fastener won't start in the threads.

Keep the tolerance stacking minimized, drill 3/8" through the holes, keep the nutsert bit straight, and keep the nutsert tool straight. Since I started doing that 1000's of holes ago, I've never had a single nutsert give me a problem getting the fastener started.
Great info! A great benefit for someone reading this before installing their sliders. I followed the GR instructions and drilled everything at 5/16" and then stepped up the nutsert locations to 17/32" and I actually did have issues with one nutsert location and I actually boogered up the nutsert threads. I still have to pull it back apart to redo that one nutsert, but it is not on the immediate to do list.
 
Great info! A great benefit for someone reading this before installing their sliders. I followed the GR instructions and drilled everything at 5/16" and then stepped up the nutsert locations to 17/32" and I actually did have issues with one nutsert location and I actually boogered up the nutsert threads. I still have to pull it back apart to redo that one nutsert, but it is not on the immediate to do list.
I don't follow instructions, I write them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gasiorv
Okay now I'm confused...

Do I want a roto broach set?
Or a spot weld cutter set?

Or are they the same thing? The look similar
 
Okay now I'm confused...

Do I want a roto broach set?
Or a spot weld cutter set?

Or are they the same thing? The look similar
If all you want is 3/8" cutters, then the spotweld cutter set is fine and gives you three 3/8" cutters. If you want a kit that contains different sizes then you will need to buy a different rotobroach set. I think the kit I have goes from 5/16" up to 3/4".

i didn't buy from amazon, but here is the kit that I have:
rotobroach kit
 
Okay now I'm confused...

Do I want a roto broach set?
Or a spot weld cutter set?

Or are they the same thing? The look similar
The spot weld cutter in 3/8" just does 3/8" holes. If you want to do other than 3/8" hole, then get the set with different sizes. If you only want to do 3/8" holes and have some spare cutters, get the spot weld specific set. If you get the various sizes set, order some extra 3/8" cutters because you can NOT side load them or they will shatter.
 
Found this thread on a GR boatside rocker install (mine is a tracer build). Silly question but on the bottom where the slider mounts to the torque box, am I just using nurserts in the torque box or am I drilling all the way into the tub floor?
 
Found this thread on a GR boatside rocker install (mine is a tracer build). Silly question but on the bottom where the slider mounts to the torque box, am I just using nurserts in the torque box or am I drilling all the way into the tub floor?

Just the torque box