New from North Dakota: P0303 code and cylinder 3 misfire

How can I take off the front fender and radiator without tearing into the a.c. lines when there's hard a.c. lines attached to it?

Why do you need to remove the radiator? The head lifts straight up and I DID NOT need to disconnected the A/C lines to remove the head.

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Okay. Head is off. Cylinder 3 is flawless. Piston head looks fine too. Noticed my cylinder 3 exhaust valve looks a little pushed in. My question is what now? Take the head and get it rebuilt or what?

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... What now? Take the head and get it rebuilt or what?

I would just rebuild it. Also, if it's a 331 casted head look for a crack between cylinders #3 and #4. They were very prone to cracking. If it's cracked just replace it with something like the one I posed at the beginning of this thread.
 
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If I bought one like the one you mentioned earlier would I have to get it machined? Or could it bolt on as is?

It was a direct bolt on. You will need to move some studs over from the old head, but a piece of cake.
 
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Should get my head back in a week or two. Does anybody know anything about performance heads? Like where to get one? From what I understand the block is almost indestructible so I figure if I find out my head is junk I'll just upgrade it so it never breaks.
 
Should get my head back in a week or two. Does anybody know anything about performance heads? Like where to get one? From what I understand the block is almost indestructible so I figure if I find out my head is junk I'll just upgrade it so it never breaks.

You can get one of the Edelbrock aluminum performance heads for about $1600. They supposedly make a huge difference in performance, around 30 extra horsepower. This is the one I am referring to:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TSL3P54/?tag=wranglerorg-20

If you want a damn nice cylinder head and a bunch of extra power, that's the way to go! Pricey, but it's aluminum versus the stock cylinder head which is iron.
 
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You can get one of the Edelbrock aluminum performance heads for about $11600. They supposedly make a huge difference in performance, around 30 extra horsepower. This is the one I am referring to:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TSL3P54/?tag=wranglerorg-20

If you want a damn nice cylinder head and a bunch of extra power, that's the way to go! Pricey, but it's aluminum versus the stock cylinder head which is iron.

Lol, for $11600 it better ship in a really nice shipping package that looks like a TJ :jump:
 
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Haha... clearly I missed that typo there. I obviously meant to say $1600. I wish someone on here would buy one of those cylinder heads by the way. Even when I had my XJ 10 years ago, those things still intrigued me. Some people claim over 30 extra horsepower from them. Not sure if that's true, or just people blowing smoke.
 
Haha... clearly I missed that typo there. I obviously meant to say $1600. I wish someone on here would buy one of those cylinder heads by the way. Even when I had my XJ 10 years ago, those things still intrigued me. Some people claim over 30 extra horsepower from them. Not sure if that's true, or just people blowing smoke.

We knew what you meant, just couldn't pass up the opportunity.
 
Just got the call. My head is fixed. Only problem is I won't be home until Friday night. Was going to go ice fishing this weekend because I wasn't expecting that call. Really hoping I can get it all put together this weekend. Not a mechanic or anything but I'm almost sure 2 full days should be enough time to get it back together.
 
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Just got the call. My head is fixed. Only problem is I won't be home until Friday night. Was going to go ice fishing this weekend because I wasn't expecting that call. Really hoping I can get it all put together this weekend. Not a mechanic or anything but I'm almost sure 2 full days should be enough time to get it back together.

You should be able to get it back running in 3 or 4 hours. Make sure you torque everything properly and use RTV on the 1 head bolt mentioned in the FSM
 
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You should be able to get it back running in 3 or 4 hours. Make sure you torque everything properly and use RTV on the 1 head bolt mentioned in the FSM
I had to leave on tuesday and got home on friday. Found out the torque wrench i have only goes to like 75 ft/lbs and you need 110 ft/lbs.

I got this stuff because the google machine told me it is the equivalent of loctite 592 sealant.

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Jeep is all together and running. Sounds a thousand times better. No codes or anything but I'm now leaking coolant. It seems like its only when i try to top it off. I believe i had this problem before but never really addressed it because my engine never overheated. I can't find exactly where its leaking from but its somewhere in the front of the motor. If anyone has had this same problem please let me know. Thanks for all the help.
 
Glad to hear you're up and running.

Could be leaking at the weep hole of the water pump. May need to pressure test it to see where it's coming from.
 
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