2001 Radiator Replacement (Champion Aluminum)
- Thread starter Alatex
- Start date
Not for sure, but maybe because of the quick disconnect fittings for the trans.cooler.
That's my guess too. Jeep used a couple different connection types at the transmission cooler ports which certainly doesn't make for easy radiator swaps.
Us radiators is $980 for a 3 row triple pass copper brass good for 30 years, and you have to use the cj radiator to get that.
Well I purchased an all aluminum champion that’s supposed to be a direct fit minus the shroud bolts apparently. It has a one year warranty and I bought 3 years extra just in case. I’m sure some here will say I should’ve shanked a dude and stole an OEM if I couldn’t find one to buy and never should install a non-OEM radiator, but I’ll be a long term test subject and if it’s trash I’ll be honest with you guys.
Once I get it installed I’ll update this on temps and how it’s going.
Once I get it installed I’ll update this on temps and how it’s going.
I’ve read reviews similar to that about CSF and basically every other aftermarket radiator out there. Unfortunately I had to pick one and the champion seemed to check the most boxes for me.
I have a CSF - its been cooling fine for the 6 months that I've had it. Longevity? Ask me in 20 years.
I hear a lot of "it's cooling fine."
I'm not doubting anyone. My POS Napa Spectra is "cooling fine."
But if we want objective and impartial comparisons of radiators we need to define terms.
Suggestions for metrics...and then we should document and score the available options.
Fitment: does it use factory mounts? Same thickness...more...less. Does the factory shroud work without modification.
Type: plastic tanks, aluminum, copper or brass. Type/size/density of fins. Transmission/power steering cooler and size and thread pitch of connectors.
Temperature: factory gauge at 212 is a good start...but we really need ambient temperature and then temperatures... probably with a laser thermometer, HF one is widely available and be consistent...at the water neck, bottom hose and left and right tanks...and then someplace under the hood to define ambient temperature under the hood... maybe the throttle body.
Price, warranty, availability all need documented.
-Mac
I'm not doubting anyone. My POS Napa Spectra is "cooling fine."
But if we want objective and impartial comparisons of radiators we need to define terms.
Suggestions for metrics...and then we should document and score the available options.
Fitment: does it use factory mounts? Same thickness...more...less. Does the factory shroud work without modification.
Type: plastic tanks, aluminum, copper or brass. Type/size/density of fins. Transmission/power steering cooler and size and thread pitch of connectors.
Temperature: factory gauge at 212 is a good start...but we really need ambient temperature and then temperatures... probably with a laser thermometer, HF one is widely available and be consistent...at the water neck, bottom hose and left and right tanks...and then someplace under the hood to define ambient temperature under the hood... maybe the throttle body.
Price, warranty, availability all need documented.
-Mac
I can’t promise I will be that dedicated to the cause, but I’ll measure and take some pics of the two side by side and let you guys know how it installs / fits etc.
Alright so a little update, it installed extremely easily and everything lined up perfectly. I saw on the JEGS website that I needed to get new bolts for the fan shroud so I bought and used 1” M6 bolts from the hardware store. I also bought two plugs for the transmission cooler and put those on. It is the same size and shape of the OEM radiator and fits like a glove. Took me about 30 minutes to change it out and that’s mostly because I kept dropping the ratchet
.
It came with a champion radiator cap (in one of the pictures you can see it), but I put my OEM cap on because I had just bought it and I thought it would work better. The only thing I can think of that I don’t like is that the drain is different so I can’t put a piece of tube on it in the future, at least not as easily as the OEM. So far, it cools exactly the same as OEM and I took it to the gym tonight which is a 30 minute interstate drive one way and everything is working well with no leaks. I will continue to update and let everyone know if I experience any issues.
.It came with a champion radiator cap (in one of the pictures you can see it), but I put my OEM cap on because I had just bought it and I thought it would work better. The only thing I can think of that I don’t like is that the drain is different so I can’t put a piece of tube on it in the future, at least not as easily as the OEM. So far, it cools exactly the same as OEM and I took it to the gym tonight which is a 30 minute interstate drive one way and everything is working well with no leaks. I will continue to update and let everyone know if I experience any issues.
KennethS
TJ Expert
I’m a bit late to this discussion and hopefully can provide some useful information.
I installed a Murray radiator from the local O’Reilly Auto Parts store. It was an aluminum core/plastic tank the same as the original, was an exact fit with no modifications needed, and has kept the engine at normal operating temperature (195) with the AC on during our 115+ summer temps in stop and go traffic and while wheeling in the desert.
For four years this radiator has kept my engine cool in the blistering 115+ Phoenix summer temps just the same as the factory Mopar radiator, so I think it would work well for other environments as well.
I installed a Murray radiator from the local O’Reilly Auto Parts store. It was an aluminum core/plastic tank the same as the original, was an exact fit with no modifications needed, and has kept the engine at normal operating temperature (195) with the AC on during our 115+ summer temps in stop and go traffic and while wheeling in the desert.
For four years this radiator has kept my engine cool in the blistering 115+ Phoenix summer temps just the same as the factory Mopar radiator, so I think it would work well for other environments as well.
WDE
TJ Enthusiast
I installed a 2 row Champion (EC2101) back in 2015 and have had no issues with overheating or leaks. The only time it runs a little hot is during the summer, while sitting at idle with the AC on for an extended period. Needle goes a little past half and holds, and goes back to normal once moving again. That appears to be normal even for OEM radiators though. I also have the dreaded grille inserts which some claim will restrict the airflow so much it will instantly overheat and explode, but that hasn't happened yet.
I ran the American Eagle radiator. Made by Champion. All aluminum 2- rows of 1” tubes. Used the stock fan shroud, clutch and fan blade. 5 years of daily driving and the little 2.5L was happy Winter and Summer, -5 to 100° F…
I will say this. Use a Mopar radiator cap and thermostat The caps they come with are trash. And most thermostats nowadays are not the same quality they used to be (Stant/Motorad)…
I will say this. Use a Mopar radiator cap and thermostat The caps they come with are trash. And most thermostats nowadays are not the same quality they used to be (Stant/Motorad)…
Update:
After about 500 miles or so it’s still performing exactly the same as OEM. Most of those miles have been on the interstate.
After about 500 miles or so it’s still performing exactly the same as OEM. Most of those miles have been on the interstate.
C.J. Roberts
TJ Addict
Only 95,500 or so miles to go to even come close to OEM.
Well, have to start somewhere. You’ll hopefully thank me for this thread when your radiator dies and an OEM cannot be found.
C.J. Roberts
TJ Addict
Just trying to keep some perspective. Most car part store radiators make it at least a few thousand. I hope that this DOES prove to be a viable alternative to OEM.
Similar threads
